Accord :: 1995 V6 Automatic - Oil Leakage Coming From Between The Block And Plate
Jul 7, 2013
'95 Accord with the V-6, automatic. Developed s strange oil leak that appears to be coming from between the block and the plate that the oil filter attaches to. Not leaking from sending unit or filter, leak is on other side of the plate.
Preliminary inspection leads me to believe that I'll have to take the drive belt side of the engine apart to fix properly. No fun, there. Wondering if I can't JB weld it.
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Every time we have the oil changed on our car, the car smells like cigarettes. Today I noticed smoke coming from the hood when I parked it. My husband says that it is caused by oil dripping on the engine block, that this happens to all Honda Accords, and that it is safe. Is it safe? Smoke coming from the hood seems scary. Engine oil is highly flammable, no?
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My van is leaking oil from where the oil filter extension bolts to the block. Is it an o-ring or a gasket that needs to be replaced? Any unexpexted upsets that I should expect when fixing this?
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I have a legacy. Notice some slippage between 2nd and 3rd and 3rd and 4th. Also noticing an extreme burning smell when vehicle first gets started (for about 15 min) it's gagging it's so strong and pours in through defrost but can be smelled standing outside car also. Finally I parked in friends garage and notice some dark weird colored fluid on ground when I backed out, I dont know if it's oil or transmission fluid.
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I have a 90 Honda Accord and can't figure out why the lights aren't working. I have no computer codes and all the fuses are good. The headlights, brake, turn signal lights, hazards and interior lights work fine but the tail lights, license plate lights, and all marker lights won't go on. I only noticed by a chance walk around on the car. I've checked every fuse inside and outside fuse panels. The hazards and brake lights going on makes me think that it can't be a ground problem.
I have spent a lot of time trying different things and checking wires andd fuses and can't find any problems. Is there a relay or something for the marker lights?
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My car blew a head gasket in the fall. A friend replaced it and rebuilt the head. The head was taken to a machine shop, was not warped but was planed just a little. The engine was put back together but it continues to gunk up the radiator with yellow gunk. We put block sealer in and it today there is gunk in the over flow bottle again. This is a 1998 Honda Accord with only 103,000 miles on it when the gasket blew.
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1995 Ford Van E150. So I've been trying to solve my overheating problem for months now. One morning I walked out of my house and all of my coolants was on the street. I could not completely detect the source of the leak after running more coolant through it. I also checked the dip stick and coolant on the ground for any sign of oil/coolant mixing. I started by replacing the thermostat.
I did a more thorough inspection and found a crack at the bottom of the radiator that I replaced less than two years ago. I replaced the radiator again and while I had the belt, intake and fan disassembled I switched out the water pump as well. The old water pump was gunked and the gasket was almost completely worn off. The van is still overheating and spitting out coolant at a much higher rate. I'm guessing because of the new water pump. A friend said it could be the intake manifold because of where the steam was coming from the motor.
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My 95 ford Aerostar 3.0 automatic trans wont shift into overdrive, here's what happened. a small hose on the side of the transmission came off, this must have popped off when I was stepping on the gas with the brake on in drive and reverse. It took 2 months to find the hose off, during those 2 months I had to shift the van manually, you had to get high RPMS before it would shift.
About 2 weeks before I found the problem I notice the van would not kick into overdrive. When I finally found the issue and reconnected the hose the trans shifted fine but still would not kick into overdrive though. Is there another vacuum hose that goes to the main vacuum housing? or an adjustment on the linkage area? This has been like this for about 6 months now and I can go on a highway..
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Honda Accord 2004 EX V6 150,000 Miles. The car is paid off, I'm the original owner and it has no problems, apart from it seems like the clutch is beginning to wear down. Some times in drive when I step on the gas it spins up just a little and jerks forward. Is is worth getting the clutch repaired?
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I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey with 190,000 miles. When I turn on the a/c after about 10 minutes the drive light blinks and the speedometer stops working and the odometer stop working also. So I have been unhooking the battery and it resets everything and the light works as well as the speedometer and odometer. I have about 2,000 miles on a new cylinder head and timing belt water pump, and battery and cables, which was quite expensive and I am wondering if its worth even fixing but there is absolutely no rust and I love the vehicle 28 mpg mini van can't beat.
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We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
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bought my car in 2008 with 19k already on it certified used. fast forward to 2012 and 102,000 miles on it engine has a knock coming from the engine block. I purchased a warranty 7/100,000 mile. Did oil changes myself every 5k full synthetic. when the car developed a knock i noticed the engine oil was scary low. Since i got my car from the time i got it at 19k and i bought the 7/100,000 mile warranty on top of that.
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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For those people who received a holeless grill in a 2 plate state how did you mount your front plate. I am supposed to have the holeless grill installed this Wednesday. I was thinking about using zip ties and mount it underneath it's original location but I am afraid that I will be blocking the radiator. I could do it by the side grill.
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2001 Accord, 6cyl. 3.0, automatic transmission. The last few weeks its been shifting a little rougher, but nothing thatd alarm me. Then last night, the check engine light popped on and the little green light around the D4 on the dash began blinking. I turned it off for a minute, restarted it and blinking light was gone but not check engine. Sat there and shifted through all the gears and the only thing I don't like is when i go from D3 to 2 and back. It shifts real hard there. Not as hard shifting back from 2 to D3 though. All other gears shift fine.
Also, I checked the fluid on the dipstick and it was right under the lower dot. Its my wifes old car and she "doesn't remember" if shes ever had the tranny flushed and a buddy said if it hasn't been flushed regularly by this point(125K miles), not a good idea to flush, just drain and refill. (Green blinking light around gear indicator) and what was the fix? Is it difficult to drain/refill the tranny and can I refill this model through the dipstick or do I have to get underneath? Do I REALLY have to use Honda ATF only or can I use whatever??
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I have 2003 Hyundai Tiburon 5 Speed. Today my wife was driving it and out of no where the car would not pick up speed like normal. we cam shift all the gears normal and the rpms go up but the speed takes time to get up there. When we parked the car i opened the hood and notice a smell and some smoke coming from under the engine block going to see a mechanic his week but what it could be.
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I replaced my Radiator, Upper and Lower Hoses, Thermostat and the thermostat gasket yesterday. I am leaking coolant from the thermostat though, It's coming from the seal between the housing and the block. The gasket was brand new and seemed to fit fine. I don't see any damage around where the seal is made..
Going to run and get a new gasket when the store opens.
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We have a 2006 Civic and there appears to be a coolant leak coming from the engine block above the started motor, so it is hard to see clearly. The kids are about to leave for Atlanta (from Iowa) and I am concerned that this could be a crack in the block based on some on-line discussion. Is it risky to send the kids on a 1000 mile trip without fixing?
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My 95 Accord loses about a qt every 1,000 miles from a loose oil pan. I leave a little mess everywhere I park. I want to replace the pan gasket but can't reach the heads of two 10mm bolts that are partially covered by part of the transmission. How do I get them off? Are those babies actually holding on the pan, or are they not related?
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Our 2012 elantra gls with 112k miles on it decided to freak out yesterday.
Car wont turn over at all. there is also a clicking sound coming from the interior fuse block. I popped the hood and smelled sulfur. I put the volt meter to the battery and it shows 12.8 ish. I checked all the fuses and didn't find any blown. I also pulled the starter relay and tested it and it checked out.
Trying to turn the car over some times the dash light will flicker and the wipers will turn on by themselves. I also had a clicking sound coming from the fuse block under the hood. Interior lights come on but are dim and the parking light flicker a bit and fade. I downloaded the manual but am not sure what to look for at this point.
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