BMW - 535 :: Acts As If Engine Is Starved Of Gas / Bucking / Surging And Backfiring Sometimes
Jul 27, 2014
1987 BMW 535is ... I first noticed the issue after getting gas with the tank nearly empty. Car lost power under acceleration, bucked, stalled, etc. After it idled a while, I was able to get it home. Fiddled with it off and on for months to no avail. Because it sat for periods of time, I would need to jump it. On those occasions, it idled perfectly and ran like a champ. Upon restart, the poor running conditions returned.
I finally gave up and took it to a BMW shop, which replaced the mass air flow meter, plugs and rotor. It ran like new for a few months, but the bogging problem returned.
Essentially, it acts as if the engine is starved of gas, bucking and surging, backfiring sometimes. It does seem to run better on a full tank, but that isn't always consistent. It also seems sometimes to improve once the engine is warm - on occasion you can feel the transmission grab hold upon letting up on the gas and the problem totally disappears. But not even that is consistent, and lately it starts and idles ok but then starts coughing and shuddering unless you hit the throttle.
I have suspected a weird electrical glitch, but grounds are fine and everything else checks out. Usual switches and sensors appear fine. While it had been running very rich before the MAF replacement, computer now shows 21 MPG, which is very high for this car and certainly doesn't suggest rich running. Have not had the fuel pump/filter checked, but it seems to be getting gas, compression is good and the BMW shop did not suspect a fuel delivery issue.
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 12v. I'm having an issue with backfiring. Also, I am having a severe issue with bucking. Sometimes it will not happen at all, and when it does happen it can occur from 2300-5500 RPMs. No matter how hard or soft I am on the throttle, it will hit this point, different everytime, and the throttle will cut out, then pick up, then cut out, then pick up.
Now, I know my MAF is throwing a few codes. But it was throwing codes for a month before this started, maybe longer,and the only symptoms were backfiring and a little lag at startup. However, the same night my issue began, I also developed a coolant leak. Upon inspection, the coolant leak path was traveling directly over my CKP sensor where it connects to the engine block, which also began throwing a code. The car starts fine, idles fine, and never stalls or dies. So my options here are replace the MAF if that seems likely to be the issue, or to attempt using liquid electrical tape to prevent the leak from hitting my CKP sensor.
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So me wife has put on about 7000 miles on her new tdi. It's a dsg, 2012. We brought it in for some warranty work and oil change at 600miles.
She is having bucking forward and back issues in the morning and after the car has sat for a while. When you go to accelerate light throttle it literally jerks forward and back and moves you in your chair when shifting first to second.
Dealer said no codes no updates nothing. I know the dsg is clunky normally but it literally jerks us back and forth in the seat 2 to 3 times or more.
Also when on the highway it surges up and down when cruising 70 to 75 like wind is blowing the car with steady throttle.
I told dealer last visit to reset the dsg gearbox as my wife did 70%traffic driving the first 4000miles. Now it's 90% highway.
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I've got a 2006 2.4L manual trans - runs great, except every once in a while, at low r.p.m., it surges or bucks. Sometimes, I press the gas and not much happens for a second then it takes off.
Other - much more rare - times it bucks like a jackrabbit a few times until I let off the gas, start over, and it accelerates fine. And most randomly of all, the idle seems erratic - not rough or jumping all over the place, but not always at the exact same r.p.m. Or if I come to a stop, the idle will drop really low for a second, then "wake back up" and idle normally.
But then most often of all, it drives normally. Anyway, step one was to run a tank of premium gas with a good injector cleaner. Which I'm doing now. Wondering if it's spark plug wires?
No "check engine light" at any point during this. All maintenance up to date; recent spark plugs; 187,000 km.
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07 f150with 5.4. At start up in morning, sounds as if oil starved to top end for few seconds. Only does on initial start up in the mornings. Use the recommended oil and ford oil filter. Had truck for 1.5 years now. Never noticed this until lately. Oil level fine.????? What is going on??
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When engine is cold, my 1989 Honda Civic with 270,000 miles starts fine. I'll drive it about 3-5 miles to run an errand, and shut it off for a few minutes while I'm in the store. When I come out, engine turns over but has trouble starting. It almost seems like it's backfiring through the engine. If I wait about 15-20 minutes, I can usually get it to start by goosing it, but the engine runs rough (intermittently) and sometimes stalls. The problem seems to be related to the engine temperature. Could this be caused by a sticky valve?
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Recently I changed the timing belt on a 2004 Passat 1.8T and I realized I put the timing tensioner off by a few millimeters due to misunderstanding. I started the engine and it didn't sound very healthy. So I took off the timing belt and realized the tensioner was off by 8 millimeters. I corrected it and restarted the engine and it began back-firing. I re-checked and replaced the belt 3 more times and it still back-fired. The engine runs perfectly from a few seconds to a few minutes, then begins back firing and it stalls out. I had a recent post and I had suggestions to check all hoses, connections, etc. and to scan the computer for error codes. I did so and got the codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304. These codes mean back-fire in cylinders 2-4. I don't see any valve adjustments in the engine so could the valves be bent and do I have to replace them? God forbid D: Or do I have to reset some kind of computer code in the car or any other error that may need adjusting? All connections, hoses, wires, etc. are good. I've been a professional mechanic/technician for 25 years now and fixed cranes, bulldozers, semi-trucks, and anything else you can name that has wheels and is land based, all sorts of engines, gas, diesel, ethanol, you name it... I also worked on several VW's, including my own, and figured this V-Dub would be a walk in the park , but it turns out this Passat is the most complicated thing I've worked on in my life!
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We have a 2002 F-150 4.6L 4x4. The engine went bad and we bought a new engine (remanned ATK). Had this engine installed and a year later it was bad and was determined it was a manufacturer defect so they sent a replacement engine under warranty.
We had this new engine installed. The mechanic fired it up and it backfired through the intake. They claim that the compression is good, the fuel pressure is good, and the timing is correct. Can they check these things when the truck is not running? The mechanic is completely frustrated with the situation...
Everything I read leads to a timing issue but they say they checked it so before I go in there screaming I want to make sure it couldn't possibly be anything else...
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what could make my 1999 chevy suburban with a 5.7L engine act like it want crank. It turns over like the battery is dead. I replaced the battery and the starter but it still drags then it will catch and start. After it starts it runs perfect. Then when I cut it off. The same problem occurs. Could this be a timing issue?
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My .:R will not start/ stay running. I just put my turbo back on. It ran great when I pulled the turbo off to get it rebuilt. When I first started the .:R, it fired right up and ran okay. About a minute later it shut off like I turned off the key. I went to restart and all I got was cracking but no start. I checked everything over and tried again. It started but shut off about 30 seconds later. After that I couldn't get it to start just cracking. I gave up for a few hour to gather my thoughts. I went back and no start again.
So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried again. It started but shut right off after a minute and wouldn't restart. So I disconnected the battery and tried again. It started again, so I revved the motor to about 3500 rpm and let it sit there and about a minute it shut off like I turned off the key. NOTE: All the dash light stayed on like the key is on but the engine acts like the key was turned off. The ECS light stays on the when the engine is running or not.
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My 2005 Mercury Montego has a weird issue with the cruise control. I have already taken it to a Ford dealer once. They claimed the switch on the brake pedal was the issue. It isn't.
At 70 mph, with cruise control OFF, take foot off accelerator and push on brake pedal. Works great.
At 70 mph, with cruise control On and engaged, the brake acts like the engine is off. It is very hard to push. It is like the engine is OFF and the vacuum assist is gone. Press really hard, and the car will slow down. Jab the brake once first (hard), then apply brakes, and it is fine. Push the cancel button on the steering wheel, and all is well. The few times I have looked, the tachometer has not moved. Car has CVT.
I bought this car new, and know it didn't always do this. And certainly shouldn't. A panic stop is scarier than it already would have been. Car has around 62000 miles on it.
Mechanic wrote that he observed the issue in a test dive and tested it following repair and it now works. I don't get this at all.
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I am working on a 2000 f-150 XLT 5.4L 4x4 Automatic. It tries to crank over but acts like its stuck. things done: New starter, new battery, fixed connections. I can turn the crank counter clock wise but won't turn clock wise. Not sure if i should say the engine is bad or could trans be stuck? Heard 5.4L's have timming chain issues. Is that true? Point me in a direction and i'll go forth.
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hey I have a 99 v10 Super duty that won't start it acts like the engine us seized the guy I bought it from says, that it just shut off at avred light and he couldn't get bit started since then when I try to. Start the truck it acts like the engine is seized. I checked the oil and coolant both are clean and full.no signs of leaks I heard it could be the ac pump stopping the belt from moving, whats wrong with my truck?!
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So, this past Saturday, I was driving down the road at about 40mph when all of a sudden, the engine started to buck and violently shake the car. I immediately pull off the road and settled on a side street with engine still bucking. When I made the turn, I applied a bit of throttle to get it round and there was essentially no throttle, so I kind of coasted to a stop. It was the strangest thing. I let it sit for 10, turned the key, and the starter turned the engine over only to start bucking again. Immediately turned off the car.
Figured I'd program the car back to stock mode (have APR Stg 1 flash) and give it a shot. Except this time, the starter worked and the engine didn't turn over. Tried a few more time, but got the same result. Starter worked, engine didn't. Fast forward an hour and a half and a flatbed shows up to haul me to the dealer. Called the dealer today to find out they haven't been able to replicate the issue and there's no code. In fact, they actually got it to start and it's been idling for 30 mins. When the tow guy came out, he thought it might have been an issue with the car not getting fuel - which seemed like a possibility. But, the car has a full take of 93 oct in it.
Like I said, APR Stg 1 ecu flash and that's it. Has 31K mi. DSG. Funny thing was, a day before this all happened, I brought it in for a 30K check-up and there weren't any issues.
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My mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
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My 2003 Camry with the 2.4 engine sometime bucks when you let off on the accelerator pedal. Sometimes when you just lightly back off on the pedal it feels as if the car is braking slightly. I do not have the problem all of the time and I'm not getting any OBD fault codes. The car drives fine except for this problem. I am thinking maybe the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe the mass air flow sensor may be the cause.
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Title says it all. I was on my way to grab dinner, stopped at a light and heard it. At first, I thought it was a car next to me. Then it kept on going, and my CEL came on. I pulled over, shut off the car, popped the hood.
Temp normal, no smoke, restarted and watched the engine. Rough idle, and it appears to be bucking. Sounds like belt noise, not sure what is going on..
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2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
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Searched but did not find. Just bought a 2015 Accent hatchback. Only issue I have had is a lean bucking of the engine if you don't have enough throttle (RPM). From a standing start, the auto trans will shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd very quickly if you are going real slow. I have to give it at least 1/4 throttle and accelerate quickly to keep the trans from shifting too soon. So far I have 2000 miles and 1 oil change, running 93 octane gas. Is this condition normal?
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I've replaced all (3) ignition coils, both O2 sensors, wires and plugs, air filter, fuel filter...Also experience some missing at low rpms as well...not sure what the problem is?
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I drive a 2001 VW Jetta and have had many issues with this car but have had this particular issue many times. It starts when all of a sudden my car feels like it's going to stall when idling. When I go to drive it in this state the car has difficulty excelerating, bucking and sputtering (like the engine isn't getting enough fuel) and the engine light comes on. I have taken it to many shops and they usually replace an oxygen sensor saying that it is clogged etc. I have also had a couple of tune-ups because of it but after about a year the issue comes back and I shell out more money. I was told by one mechanic to use only super gasoline and that it should prevent it from happening again which I did and it held it off from happening again to about a year and a half but now it's back.
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