what could make my 1999 chevy suburban with a 5.7L engine act like it want crank. It turns over like the battery is dead. I replaced the battery and the starter but it still drags then it will catch and start. After it starts it runs perfect. Then when I cut it off. The same problem occurs. Could this be a timing issue?
View 4 RepliesI am working on a 2000 f-150 XLT 5.4L 4x4 Automatic. It tries to crank over but acts like its stuck. things done: New starter, new battery, fixed connections. I can turn the crank counter clock wise but won't turn clock wise. Not sure if i should say the engine is bad or could trans be stuck? Heard 5.4L's have timming chain issues. Is that true? Point me in a direction and i'll go forth.
View 14 Replies1999 gmc suburban shut off no start next morning will crank then act's like it loads (cranks hard for a second then back to normal) has good spark has a fuel vapor out of exhaust but will not fire.
What I've checked
Spark on every plug. Good and new
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with gas
Distributor turns new cap & rotor
Checked time manually (TDC looked at distributor rotor Pointing cylinder at # 1 cylinder
Will check fuel pressure when I get home
I have a 2003 Honda Civic EX. Purchased used with 82,530 on it. Current mileage of about 114,100 on it now. I recently replaced the front and rear brakes. During that process, I was informed that the rear brakes were warped (they were cleaned & adjusted when I replaced the front brakes, but they continued to squeak like a transit bus). I had the rear shoes replaced and there is no more squeaking, but I get a "drag" that is particularly noticeable when riding at highway speeds (55mph or higher). The drag seems to come from the rear right of the car, and it reminds me of what you might feel if you were driving against the emergency brake.
Took the car back to the mechanic that did the rear brakes. He started down the road of it being bad ball bearings. He test drove it with me and experienced the drag, but when he put it on the lift said something was catching and made an adjustment that eliminated this 'drag'. My impression was that the drag came from some oversight when the rear shoes were replaced.
The car rode fine for a few days after that, but now the dragging symptom is back. The mechanic's assumption was that it could be a ball bearing that is on it's way to going bad. I don't hear any noises in relationship to this drag. It feels either like something is holding the car back, or like something is keeping the power from the engine from making it to the wheels.
Is this a wheel bearing/brake issue? Would needing new spark plugs have any impact on this?
Bought a 2003 impala recently and all has been great, but most recently there just is no power and when you press on the gas it boggs down lifters rattle and no forward thrust. check engine light starts flashing and if you find the sweet spot you can ease it up to speep. Fuel filter clogg? new pumb needed? or worse trans problems. Car has 161,000 miles
View 9 RepliesIt drags and bogs in first and second gear. No jump to it at all. I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter,brakes, brake lines,valve cover gasket, spark plugs, spark plug hoses, exhaust manifold, timings good. What else can it be?
View 8 Replies1987 BMW 535is ... I first noticed the issue after getting gas with the tank nearly empty. Car lost power under acceleration, bucked, stalled, etc. After it idled a while, I was able to get it home. Fiddled with it off and on for months to no avail. Because it sat for periods of time, I would need to jump it. On those occasions, it idled perfectly and ran like a champ. Upon restart, the poor running conditions returned.
I finally gave up and took it to a BMW shop, which replaced the mass air flow meter, plugs and rotor. It ran like new for a few months, but the bogging problem returned.
Essentially, it acts as if the engine is starved of gas, bucking and surging, backfiring sometimes. It does seem to run better on a full tank, but that isn't always consistent. It also seems sometimes to improve once the engine is warm - on occasion you can feel the transmission grab hold upon letting up on the gas and the problem totally disappears. But not even that is consistent, and lately it starts and idles ok but then starts coughing and shuddering unless you hit the throttle.
I have suspected a weird electrical glitch, but grounds are fine and everything else checks out. Usual switches and sensors appear fine. While it had been running very rich before the MAF replacement, computer now shows 21 MPG, which is very high for this car and certainly doesn't suggest rich running. Have not had the fuel pump/filter checked, but it seems to be getting gas, compression is good and the BMW shop did not suspect a fuel delivery issue.
My .:R will not start/ stay running. I just put my turbo back on. It ran great when I pulled the turbo off to get it rebuilt. When I first started the .:R, it fired right up and ran okay. About a minute later it shut off like I turned off the key. I went to restart and all I got was cracking but no start. I checked everything over and tried again. It started but shut off about 30 seconds later. After that I couldn't get it to start just cracking. I gave up for a few hour to gather my thoughts. I went back and no start again.
So I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried again. It started but shut right off after a minute and wouldn't restart. So I disconnected the battery and tried again. It started again, so I revved the motor to about 3500 rpm and let it sit there and about a minute it shut off like I turned off the key. NOTE: All the dash light stayed on like the key is on but the engine acts like the key was turned off. The ECS light stays on the when the engine is running or not.
My 2005 Mercury Montego has a weird issue with the cruise control. I have already taken it to a Ford dealer once. They claimed the switch on the brake pedal was the issue. It isn't.
At 70 mph, with cruise control OFF, take foot off accelerator and push on brake pedal. Works great.
At 70 mph, with cruise control On and engaged, the brake acts like the engine is off. It is very hard to push. It is like the engine is OFF and the vacuum assist is gone. Press really hard, and the car will slow down. Jab the brake once first (hard), then apply brakes, and it is fine. Push the cancel button on the steering wheel, and all is well. The few times I have looked, the tachometer has not moved. Car has CVT.
I bought this car new, and know it didn't always do this. And certainly shouldn't. A panic stop is scarier than it already would have been. Car has around 62000 miles on it.
Mechanic wrote that he observed the issue in a test dive and tested it following repair and it now works. I don't get this at all.
hey I have a 99 v10 Super duty that won't start it acts like the engine us seized the guy I bought it from says, that it just shut off at avred light and he couldn't get bit started since then when I try to. Start the truck it acts like the engine is seized. I checked the oil and coolant both are clean and full.no signs of leaks I heard it could be the ac pump stopping the belt from moving, whats wrong with my truck?!
View 5 Replies2001 F150 5.4 Auto ... Truck was running excellent. Engine light and overdrive light begins to blink and it acts like its running out of fuel or water in gas. Baring made it home. Cleared the code and it comes back. Transmission seems fine.
View 2 RepliesI have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders.
I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
I have a 2008 gently driven suburban ltz that I bought, used at a dealer auction that seems to have developed a slow oil leak from the engine compartment. Why this has happened now?
It now has 70,000 miles.
2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
I have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.
I got a 2001 Denali with the 6.0l. It seems to be leaking engine oil to the rear of the oil pan on both sides. It has residue where the oil cooler lines are at, by the drain plug, under the bell housing and around the starter. Also, I noticed there was some antifreeze on the right side axle towards the right front of the motor. I can't see any signs of the water pump or thermostat leaking. Where either of these could be leaking from?
View 1 RepliesMy engine revs up no matter if the thing is hot or cold when I come to a stop at a red light, SOMETIMES. Other times it will idle at 100 and then wants to idle around 1000 and has idled as high as 1200. I've been told EGR, TPS, Idle Control Motor, or Intake gaskets. I did have a code 22 which occurred after a friend unplugged the TPS and reconnected it, but no other codes or check engine lights. Tuned engine 2 weeks ago, but problem still persists. Where do I start and what equipment do I need. I am a professional diesel tech, but not so much with gas.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 suburban k1500 4x4 i just pulled a check engine code 35 what could be causing it to appear? I need to know if its something small or a big fix?
View 2 RepliesMy Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."