C/K :: 1989 CEL Comes On As Engine Gets Warm
Feb 6, 2016
I have a 1989 Chevy C1500 w/ 350, T.B.I, Automatic Trans, Mileage = High, that keeps throwing the Trouble Code 13.
I can crank the truck and drive it and it runs great BUT as soon as the engine gets warm(5 -10 miles) the Check Engine Light comes on and I can tell a noticeable difference in power (loss). I have to press a little more on the gas pedal to maintain my current speed. As you know a Code 13 indicates a faulty O2 Sensor, I replaced it with NO LUCK.
Could I have bought a faulty O2 Sensor? I checked the voltage of the wire coming from the ecm with the switch in the on (not running) position and I got a voltage of 1.5volts. All this started all of a sudden after I done a complete tune-up on the engine.
New Plugs,Wires,Cap,Button,PCV,Air Filter,Oil and Filter, New Thermostat and Gasket.
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I have a 89 chevy 1500, 5.7 pick up. I beleive it's referred to as the c/k series.
Recently I've been having some issues with stalling. When the engine is cold everything runs fine but after warm up I've noticed the problem start occurring.
When I'm doing a slow turn ( any direction) , backing up, or in stop and go traffic, the truck want to stall when I touch the gas pedal. Once I get past the intial slight throttle it picks up and does fine.
I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter and even the fuel pump( mainly because it never gauged fuel correctly but I thought it might have a pressure issue).
Nothing seems to work and I'm not getting any codes.
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I've recently acquired a 1989 ford ranger xlt 2.9L V6 and iv got my elbows deep already..... starts right up and scene its an older truck i let it warm up for a few minutes seems to sound alright so i jump in and take off... well i make it about two blocks and as soon as the truck seems to warm up it starts to sputter and die out... starts back up and idles for a min and i try to take off, but it seems to have NO power and jerks and dies.... so i push to a street parking spot and get situalated start the truck up again and take off only to make it about half a block tell it does the same....
First i think iv run outta gas witch i might of not sure so I walk to station and get three gallons. put in truck and same is happening. so i start kicking myself for not haven any tools with me and i leave tell next day... that night do a little research and get some idea's of what could be the problem'(s) so i start out with things that look like they need tending Badly WIRES, PLUGS, ROTOR, CAP, MAP SENSOR, and now after a whole day in the rain (Northwest BTW) and grease to elbows? 2.9 V6? What step's should i take next?
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I just purchased a 1989 F250 with a 5.8 motor. Great truck for its age. Ive owned other Ford trucks in the past and my Dad had them as a kid. Love them.
When I bought the truck from the 2nd owner it had a problem so I bought this truck with the problem figuring with my past knowledge I could fix it. Not the case. When I got the truck it would start fine and run really great but when it got warm it seems it would die and I would have to wait till it was cooled down to start back up and again it would run fine. Well the problem got worse and worse and now it wont run at all.
It will run on starter fluid so that leads me immediately to the fuel pumps. I say that plural because none of them will run it seems. I did a fuel pressure test at the shrader valve at the top of the motor on the fuel rail and I get no pressure at all when I turn the key. The relay in the engine compartment seems to be working to as I can hear it. I put a new on of those on to to be sure. Leads me back to the pumps again. I replaced the external pump on the fuel rail and I know thats working. I replaced the fuel filter to while I was there.
Is it possible to have BOTH fuel pumps in the front and rear tanks go at once? Seems unusual. My other F150 with dual tanks worked great and when the back tank pump went I could just switch it over to the front tank.
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My service engine light comes on after my camero has been running for a little while some times it takes about 1o minutes before it comes on it runs like there's no problems with it. I know there's a way to check it with a paper clip but I forgot what spots to put it in to get the codes. Its a 1989 camero r/s 305 tpi
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My 1985 Saab 900 turbo has been dying while being driven. Suddenly, and usually while the car is relatively hot and in traffic, the engine will die while driving. Usually it will die when at a light stopped but not always. This has never happened before the last week or so, but the car has always had trouble with cold starts and will die while idling when the ignition is first turned. This hasn't been diagnosed. At times a lot of smoke will come from the exhaust, and this has not had a trigger (too much oil, hard driving, etc) but the car did pass smog in California (the strictest state!). Just now, a light I've never seen (and I've had 2 80's Saabs) came on the dash which said EXH, which I read could be regarding the o2 sensor?
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I have the GM shop manual and I have gone through the flow chart for an engine which cranks but does not start. I have confirmed that there is fuel pressure and spark, but the injectors do not fire when cranking. I have gotten to the final troubleshooting step of disconnecting the crank angle sensor connector, jumping A and B terminals on the connector, and momentarily grounding the jumper with a test light. The injectors fire as confirmed using the GM injector test light (in place of an injector). The flow chart conclusion is that the crank angle sensor is bad or misadjusted or the connector is making a bad connection. I have replaced the sensor twice and adjusted it using the GM adjustment tool. The connector terminals appear clean and undamaged. 1989 Buick Century 3.3 liter ...
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My Lesabre is a good car, it drives just great. It has lots of power, no performance loss with this problem.
It has an incessant rattle, when I try to locate where it is coming from, it sounds like it coming from everywhere. Like it echo's throughout the engine. Although it sometimes seems to come from the passenger side where the belt system is. It has one of those serpentine belts, the one piece runs all. I have changed the idler pulley, the belt, the power steering unit and pulley, water pump and water pump pulley, alternator, removed the metal spash guard under the engine all to no avail.
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When engine is cold, my 1989 Honda Civic with 270,000 miles starts fine. I'll drive it about 3-5 miles to run an errand, and shut it off for a few minutes while I'm in the store. When I come out, engine turns over but has trouble starting. It almost seems like it's backfiring through the engine. If I wait about 15-20 minutes, I can usually get it to start by goosing it, but the engine runs rough (intermittently) and sometimes stalls. The problem seems to be related to the engine temperature. Could this be caused by a sticky valve?
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Recently, my car has started to run rough with the check engine light on. I cycled the key 3 times and checked for codes. I got a code for the MAP sensor and a code for the 02 sensor. I got no codes for a misfire, so I guess the plugs and wires are okay. I bought a new MOPAR Map sensor and installed it. It still runs the same and the check engine light is still on.. My question is, is it necessary to disconnect the negative on the battery when doing this and for how long? I did disconnect it for about 2 minutes and it still was the same.
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My 1989 Honda Civic engine randomly dies usually while driving. When it dies I hear a relay click sound coming from the area of the glove box. The tachometer and speedometer go immidiately to 0. The dashboard indicator lights all go out. The turn signals windshield wipers and electric windows all quit working, but the emergency flashers, radio, and comfort system blower continue to work. I think the transmission goes immediately into neutral too because deceleration is much slower than it would be if the engine were running and I take my foot off the accelerator. So far I have always been able to restart the engine and continue driving, though it often takes many tries before it will successfully restart and keep running.
In an unsuccessful restart the engine will fire and start to rev up but die again as soon as I release the key from the Start position. Occasionally the engine will spontaneously restart while we are coasting to a stop. We took it on a long trip this summer and it would almost always work fine until we stopped for gas, food or restroom break. After the break it would die one to three times in the first 5 miles and then would work fine until the next break. My mechanic says the computer is not storing any failure codes and he is having a hard time troubleshooting it because the problem only randomly occurs. I'm wondering if the problem might be a flaky electrical connector somewhere.
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I have a 1989 Buick LaSabre that is having some problems and no mechanic seems to be able to figure it out. After 4 computer items totally $1,800.00 since March, the same problem started again yesterday. I am driving through the hills to town and the dashboard lights all come on and my engine cuts out. I stop, put in park and restart and take off again. As soon as I am on the highway, car runs fine. It has something to do with the fuel system I believe because once it cuts out the car smells like lots of gas but after it starts back up (and it does every time) the smell goes away.
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I got oil in my coolant ...the engine has no water..trany is good too...when I drive the temperature is good, but when I'm at a stop it gets hotter...when I add oil that's whence I notice...could it be a simple fix or is it the gasket? 1989, Mercedez 260E, V6, 200k plus miles.....
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This S10 has 4 wheel drive and the V6 engine and has 88,000 miles on it. Just about everything except the engine has been replaced because it was a work and plow car and took a beating. It is a great plow car, by the way. Recently a cloud of smoke comes out of the exhaust when you start the engine that has been sitting overnight. Mechanic says it is just old, but someone said that replacing the umbrella seals might do the trick. Stopped at my local auto parts store and they had never heard of umbrella seals.
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I have an 89 Ranger 2.3l with 255,000 miles on original engine. The engine runs like brand new. I'm just curious as to why it's extremely sluggish when cold. Example, it was 3 degrees this morning and I literally couldn't get over 45 mph for 5-10 mins. Everyone was passing me. No knocks or other strange noises just doesn't have any power. Once warmed up its completely normal. Obviously my '01 4.0 Ranger doesn't do this so I was mainly interested in why? Do they use different metal materials, is engine wore out (obviously it is to an extent), or something else?
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I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.
I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.
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The problem only occurs on a cold start. I put the key in and start the motor. It starts fine. It runs fine for about three(3) seconds and then the RPM's start to dive (I have to give it gas to keep it from dying). The exhaust begins to put out quite a bit of smoke and the engine runs really really really rough,... kinda like it has a heavy cam in it.
After a few minutes of this exhaust smoke and rough running, the engine of course is warming up. The RPM's start to come up on its own, the exhaust smoke disappears and the really really really rough idle (not really an idle because I have to give it gas to prevent the motor from dying) disappears and the car idles perfectly.This cold start problem also uses up a noticeable amount of gasoline.
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My 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
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This is about my 1986 Lincoln Continental 5L with 93800 miles.
On Th Oct 8, I go in for my smog test. It failed. The timing has to be adjusted. I had to reschedule the test and the timing adjustment for the following Mon Oct 12.On Sat Oct 10, work needed to be done on my doors by a freelance experienced mechanic and at the end it killed my battery which I recharged.Mon Oct 12, I drive the car on the HWY 16 miles West bound then 19 miles East bound before I go for the timing adjustment and the smog re-test.While I was driving back East bound I noticed the engine sounding louder than usual yet I also thought it might a car driving by that was loud. I gave it little attention.At the exit ramp 19 miles later, when I accelerated after stopping, the car shook so much that it scared me. It was hesitating and jittering at the same time. It continued to do so while I reached the next stop over the bridge and while I drove up a hill all the way to the Smog Shop 4 miles farther.
After getting off the Freeway where I went up to 70mph I stayed between 35mph and 45mph to keep up with traffic on surface street until I reach the smog shop.There I revealed what the car just did and the mechanic advised that I get that fixed before I get it re-smogged. He was not interested in resolving the problem because it's an old car. Remembering my dad's best friend telling me several times that my dad never tuned the car since he had it in Dec 1995, I checked the car file and found that that was true and that only the spark plugs were changed in 1998 .That following Sat Oct 17, the freelance mechanic came and tuned the car with new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotors, no timing adjustment though. Some electrical tape was wrapped over the hole on the vacuum hose nearest the distributor since he did not plan to bring a replacement in case there would have been an issue.
He claims the PCV valve to have passed his shaking check (Valve did pass the 1st smog test). He did a visual check of the fuel filter underneath the car in the back. The car ran smoothly after the job.On Mon Oct 19, before going back to the Smog Shop, I drive about 10 miles between 55mph and 65mph on the freeway and then 35mph to 45mph on surface street for about a half hour. All went well. I'm thinking the tune up fixed the hesitation/jittering/shaking problem. Once at the shop, upon adjusting the timing, the control module came apart; the plastic housing was broken in half (I have the broken part). The mechanic replaced it as well as the vacuum hose that was wrapped with tape. The car passed the Smog Test.Upon leaving the parking lot at the test station, I noticed the car hesitated/jittered just as it did last Monday, although somewhat subtle. I drove about 2 miles at 35mph, stopped and called the mechanic at the Smog station to tell him about it and he said that he had noticed the hesitation while it was running in the bay and he does not know what it could be since the car was tuned up and diplomatically indicated again that he was not interested in working on old cars.
I drove to the grocery store 2 miles away, spent about a half hour there and went home 6 miles away. The car had I guess cooled down some and therefor the jitter was subtle all the way home.In my view, and based on my experience on Mon Oct 12, it seems that that reaction (hesitation/jittering) occurs when the car reaches a certain temperature.I have not checked if the RPM jumps up or down whenever I accelerate when it jitters. One thing for sure is that when the jittering starts, it does it while the car is running and stationary, a bit more when you stop and go and more when you accelerate to a higher speed. On Mon Oct 12, I had the air on and turned it off shortly after the jittering was felt; that did not affect the intensity. On Mon Oct 19, I did not turn the air on at all.It seems that since the tune up, I can feel the car shift better and have never had issues with shifting anyways. Checked for slippage and that was negative.Fluids are always where they are to be. Motor oil and filter were changed on Oct 7.
Today, I've decided to seek a possible answer to my problem on the internet and remembered CarTalk.So far I'm finding out that it could be the Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor that needs cleaning, or an issue with the Temperature Sensor, the Balance Shaft, the Fuel Pressure Regulator, that a compression check may be needed. Keep in mind that I don't know if my car is even equipped with all that stuff since these findings are based on problem that people shared about their own cars. I must not forget to reveal that 2 of the old plugs smelled like gas and 2 were oily and very dirty (I know that the gasket on the left hand side needs to be replaced again).
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Mmkay.. 2000 GTI VR6.. Will start initially, when engine is cold (sat overnight, or through the work day) but once the engine is at normal running temp, if you shut it off, it wont start. Acts like its out of gas.. have to "prime" and keep hitting the gas pedal while cranking, to (sometimes) get it to start when warm, and then it runs like crap until I get a few miles down the road.
Brand new plugs and wires, and just this evening, pulled a plug, and its obviously fouled, and covered with unburnt gas. Coil Pack maybe?
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Here's what's done to the car so far:
Evoms CAI
Autotech HPFP Insert
UM Fully Loaded Stage 2
Magnaflow Catback
R8 Coilpacks
Now my problem lies in the fact that the car has an unusual "loping" idle once it's warmed up. I noticed it very slightly when I first installed the catback simply because that exhaust is louder than stock. Now with the tune it seems to be even more noticible and ocasionally the engine will stumble upon a warm startup. I've pulled up VCDS and looked at the timing measuring blocks during idle and it varies between 0 and 13.5 BTDC/ATDC, the lowest the revs go is about 700 and the the car idles most of the time at about 800. A few hundred miles ago there was a code for Fuel pressure too high (P0088) and an o2 sensor reading too rich (P2271), I saved said codes and cleared them and they have not returned.
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