Celica :: 1983 - Shifter Sticks While Shifting Into 3rd Gear
Jul 25, 2012
i have an 83 gt celica and i am have trouble getting the gear shift to go into 3rd gear. I can do it if i shift slowly, but doing this fast risks shifting into 1st or getting jammed between 1st and 3rd.
i have attached a link to a diagram of the shifter parts and this contains more info on the car and engine type if needed. My question is what exactly do i need to replace to make it easier to shift?I have removed the boot and the gasket just to look inside and see if something looks bent, but I have not taken out the retainer or the plate below, but i am thinking that is the piece i need to replace.
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I have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
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My 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
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Before I go replacing stuff and taking stuff apart. My 94 Celica key sticks in the ignition. It will turn to accessory and run and starts just fine. The key won't turn back to release. Unless the battery is unhooked.I figured this out after killing my battery then recharging it. The steering wheel also doesn't lock. I am unsure if they are related but unhooking my battery to get my key out is annoying.
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got a sweet deal on it but only 1 problem with the car. when i shift into 2nd gear there is a grinding noise, however it doesnt grind if i drive super slow... it doesnt really matter if i upshift or downshift into 2nd it will make the noise either way... also the grinding noise is only there WHILE shifting the lever into 2nd gear so its only there for a second, once the lever is shifted into 2nd gear there is no grinding noise at all...not sure if this is related but the clutch pedal also feels very lose just when its about to hits the floor...
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My Mustang is an automatic. The shifter in the console sticks when changing gears. At times, I have to keep it half way into another gear or else I hear grinding or the car won't go into gear. Is it my transmission or my console?
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83' Toyota Celica GT with an automatic transmission. The problem that we are having is that we can't get it to turn over. All it wants to do is click at us. As far as we both can tell all cables and wiring harnesses are plugged in and there aren't any loose wires. We've had the alternator and starter checked and they both passed. Also there is a new battery with new terminals installed so that's not going to be the problem. In all of the reading that I've done I keep hearing about a neutral start switch. What is it? And where is it located? I believe I've found a spot where it should be but there isn't anything there. And we've put all of the parts in the car back where they go.
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Car runs and idles good until I turn on lights or fan rpm jump up about 500 to 700 above normal much worst with both on 1000 1500 and fluctuates. Engine runs rough the higher the rpm the rougher.
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I bought my 06 GS300 AWD with 104k a year and half ago and have noticed the transmission sticks while shifting. This is prevalent during winter or cold driving.
These are the cold symptoms w/o Snow Mode active:
-sticking between shifts (gears 2-4).
-on highway coasting speeds, take your foot of the accelerator and the Tac. needle bounces.
-downshifting to lower gears the car pushes forward further than expected.
-coming down a decline with your foot on Brake, the gear upshifts instead of downshifts (has happened after driving for more than 20 minutes).
- high Tac. reading during warm-up drive, have to depress brake pedal further, to prevent collision.(this one I expected since all Toyota vehicles that I've owned has done this).
I have talk to my local Lexus dealer and a tech mentioned this transmission has been known to do this while it's cold.
So, my question is, should I consider changing the trans. fluid to see if the problem goes away?
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I recently changed the bushings and installed SS kit. I don't know if this was the case before, but now while in any gear, i can still move it approx half inch to the right and half inch to the left.
I checked everything and all screws are tight. Could it be that the shifter cables need adjustment?
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I have a 2009 stick-shift 4WD ford ranger with a clutch that is sticky in 1st and reverse. Basically it requires alot of force to push it into 1st or reverse, but this problem isnt always there, and it the problem dosnt seem to pop up under any particular circumstances - e.g.: the weather, if the tuck has been driven recently etc. I paid $5000 for extended warranty when i bought this truck new, and the dealer repair shop tells me that they can't tell me if it is covered under warranty until they take it apart to see if the problem is a "wear item" .
If it's not covered under warranty then I am stuck with the $700 bill. Otherwise the truck runs great, and I have never had any work done under the extended warranty. The warranty runs out soon, and I am wondering whether to take a chance with a rebuild. My wife dosnt like to drive the truck with the clutch like that because she is afraid of getting stuck at a stoplight and being unable to engage the gear.
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I have a 98 Mazda Protege-Automatic, it has the following problem:
- When i press the gas it takes about 2-3 seconds to feel it and start moving.
- at the beginning of a drive, it is very heavy to go and some time i have to reach 4000 rpm to get it move. after running for some time it is better.
- some time it sticks to a specific gear (usually 1st or 2nd) and does not shift forward??
Is it the clutch or the transmission or something else? how much it may cost to fix?
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I have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn't start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise ... just wouldn't start. Got jump, still wouldn't start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I'm finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked ... battery's 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it's still not starting.
Car's gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that's what's wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it's not the starter switch. I'd hate to get it repaired if that's not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.
What's happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?
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I bought a 96 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 on the 21st and the gear shifter doesn't go into 1st gear but changes to the other ones(see pic below) and was wondering if it's a easy fix.
Also I have a oil drip(at least it looks like oil to me) and I can't figure out where it's coming from because it's a small drip and the oil dipstick and tranny dipstick both show full and I can't figure out where the drip is coming from and I only noticed a dip on a metallic tank but don't know what that is either but check out the pic below to see the drip I circled.
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I recently purchased a 2005 Elantra Automatic, my question is, when shifting it out of park, the shifter doesn't stop at "D" but at "3" is there an adjustment or is it just a quirk of the car?
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The gear shifter in my auto trans 05 Elantra is really stiff when shifting different gears. I was running fine as I went to work and back today with no problems. After I got back from work, the car was off for 30-40 mins. Then I went back and started the car and the gear shifter was stiff but still shiftable. I checked under the car to and fluid leaks but didn't see anything. What may be the issue here?
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I have an 86 celica with a 3sgte swap. 92 Camry v6 transmission . It feels rough when going into gears. Not smooth. I just replaced the transmission and it feels EXACTLY like the old the.
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When I shift the tranny from Park to Drive or Reverse, there's a whistling sound for 2-3 seconds. Also get the same sound when I brake hard.
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So i was driving home from work yesterday and out of no where i couldnt get the shifter to get over to 1st or 2nd gear. i had to wiggle it around and push down on the shift knob and it eventually went over. Happened a few more times yesterday and like twice on my way to work today. It feels kind of sticky or something, not really moving as freely as it used to. What could be causing this?
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I bought the car about a week ago, whenever the auto tranny shifts gears there is a slight jerk that old honda autos are known for, my wife's car is a 01 celica gt which I bought 2 months ago and went through castrol import ATF 3x drain n refill method suggested by honda for their auto trany, I attempted the same thing in the gts and the shift jerk went down a little but not by much, the gt auto tranny is so smooth I can't even tell whenever it shifts up or down other then high rpm engine noise when it gets there. Is it the engine being much more powerful then the gt to cause that jerk? Should I try a different fluid? Need to know if theirs is smooth across all gears in any rpm range.
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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