Ford - Ranger :: 2009 - Clutch Sticks In 1st Gear And Reverse
Apr 8, 2013
I have a 2009 stick-shift 4WD ford ranger with a clutch that is sticky in 1st and reverse. Basically it requires alot of force to push it into 1st or reverse, but this problem isnt always there, and it the problem dosnt seem to pop up under any particular circumstances - e.g.: the weather, if the tuck has been driven recently etc. I paid $5000 for extended warranty when i bought this truck new, and the dealer repair shop tells me that they can't tell me if it is covered under warranty until they take it apart to see if the problem is a "wear item" .
If it's not covered under warranty then I am stuck with the $700 bill. Otherwise the truck runs great, and I have never had any work done under the extended warranty. The warranty runs out soon, and I am wondering whether to take a chance with a rebuild. My wife dosnt like to drive the truck with the clutch like that because she is afraid of getting stuck at a stoplight and being unable to engage the gear.
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1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
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The reverse gear went out in my 97 ford ranger with automatic transmission. I took the transmission out and replaced the reverse band, cleaned everything up, put it all back together and back in and filled it up with fluid. Unfortunately, between me and my assistant, we did not secure the pump correctly and sheared the ears off it. It made a racket when we started it. It would go through all gears while jacked up but when on the ground it had no power. It would barely move. And there was no fluid coming through the pump when I cracked the lines. We pulled it all out again, took it to a shop, put on a new pump and had them reassemble it all and we put it back in, making sure to do it right this time. But I still don't have the power I had before all this. It's very sluggish in all gears. There was no racket on start up this time. And when I crack the lines there is intermittent fluid loss but not a constant flow. I really don't want to pull this thing again. What am I doing wrong?
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Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
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When I have the clutch depressed and start to let out as I'm either in reverse or in first gear it makes a clatter/chatter noise. It also occurs when I have the clutch depressed and just rev the engine and it's in neutral. Some days it's louder than others. It doesn't matter if the engine is cool or at normal temp.
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Ok, so I got my car at 60k miles, and the clutch went out almost instantly so I had the entire clutch replaced, and it was working just fine until now. It has been 25k miles since I did the full clutch replacement so it shouldn't be messing up again already. It is not going in to reverse at all, it goes in to 1st gear, but only after a lot of coaxing and grinding, and the clutch feels strange. The clutch is too soft (too easy to push down), but after a while it seems to get better.
2007 Hyundai Accent GS
Manual, hatchback
85k miles
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I have a 89 nissan fairladyz32 (300zx) and when i push the clutch peddle in it is very hard and i cant put it in 1 and reverse when it is running but when it is off i can just fine. but then if i put it in 1 gear before starting it and push the clutch in to start the car it lurches forward a little what could this be? and when i leave it to idle for to long it puffs smoke or at first start up? It has about 80,000 km.....
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I drive a 2004 Kia spectra (base model) w/ 93k
My clutch would start out fine as I start the car, but after pressing on the clutch pedal for about 40-60 times on one trip, it'll start to loose pressure & becomes stickier. And as I press on the clutch pedal more & more, the problem gets progressively worse to the point where I have to manually pull the clutch back up with the tip of my foot.
I also notice that when I drive with the air conditioning, the problem would precipitate earlier & clutch response deteriorates much quicker. But when I let the car rest for a couple of hours or overnight, the clutch response would slowly return, and eventually be normal again.
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I own a Honda Accrod 2005 V6.
I don't know much about cars, but for the past year my clutch gradually started to just stick to the floor. I'm now at 80,000 miles, the clutch doesn't slip, and it for the most part drives fine with exception to this sticking. Sometimes when this happens, the stick shift stays in gear and I can't get the stick out of gear until the clutch has been lifted up and pushed back in. It is def getting worse. I have brought it to several mechanics.
I have been told by Honda that I need to replace the clutch set (clutch disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) and the clutch master and slave cylinder.After another mechanics look over, they also did confirm the same as honda but stated to get a new cut flywheel.
But after several other mechanics look-overs, they told me that the clutch is fine, so they recommended me to get the master and slave cylinders replaced.
So, trying to save money a mechanic told me to take one step at a time and see how it goes. He said he will bleed the slave and master cylinders and see if it is just an air pocket. That didn't work, so I trusted him and he replaced the master cylinder, but the problem still exists. He said the next thing to do is maybe to do a new slave cylinder. I'm now contemplating.
Another mechanic took a look after the work was done and said there is no leaking.
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I am looking over a 1998 Ford Ranger. Very low miles for its age (67,000) and kept in very good shape. When I took it for a drive, I noted an issue.
- there's a whining sound in first gear and reverse that varies according to the engine RPMs. I thought it might be the power steering pump, as that whined when I turned the wheel.
However, the noise went away when I shifted to the higher gears. Been a while since I drove a stick - my Bug back in 2003, IIRC.
What I might be getting into? I really like this machine, aside from that issue, and I would like to nail the problem down ASAP...
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having some issues with my idle, when im coasting and i push in the clutch it doesnt drop down to idle like it used to it sticks at about 2000 when its dropping, also at a stop light the idle will rise up and hunt from 1700 to 2300 or so. also if im in a parking lot in second gear or so the rpms will rise and accdelerate the vehicle.
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2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
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My 1999 Toyota Tacoma (Ext Cab, 4x4 TRD) has 162K miles and now the clutch pedal intermittently sticks to the floor. I have to pull it off the floor with my toes while driving and have also felt the pedal start to pull back towards the floor on its own while the truck is in gear.
I'm looking for some wisdom as a few blogs/websites point towards a master cylinder, others say the master and slave, and my local auto shop said I need to replace the entire clutch assembly and throttle bearing. My truck is no spring chicken anymore but I'd like to keep it running for a few more years...
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I just purchased an Automatic 2009 Camry LE with 64k 2weeks ago, and noticed that twice it felt like it was losing power on an incline so I bought the fuel system cleaner to see if that worked (seaform). Tonight I go to park it on a street with a slight incline. As I shift to reverse to line the car up, it rolled forward. It shocked me bc there was a parked car right in front of me. I tried putting it in Drive/Park etc then back in Reverse it still rolled forward. I put my foot on the brake and gas at the same time to try to reverse but not wanting to give it too much gas bc I was scared it might fly forwards into the car in front of me (still rolled forward). Finally I was so close to the car in front of me I gave it a try and it still rolled and bumped the truck in front of me but with enough gas it went into reverse.
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i have an 83 gt celica and i am have trouble getting the gear shift to go into 3rd gear. I can do it if i shift slowly, but doing this fast risks shifting into 1st or getting jammed between 1st and 3rd.
i have attached a link to a diagram of the shifter parts and this contains more info on the car and engine type if needed. My question is what exactly do i need to replace to make it easier to shift?I have removed the boot and the gasket just to look inside and see if something looks bent, but I have not taken out the retainer or the plate below, but i am thinking that is the piece i need to replace.
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I have a 98 Mazda Protege-Automatic, it has the following problem:
- When i press the gas it takes about 2-3 seconds to feel it and start moving.
- at the beginning of a drive, it is very heavy to go and some time i have to reach 4000 rpm to get it move. after running for some time it is better.
- some time it sticks to a specific gear (usually 1st or 2nd) and does not shift forward??
Is it the clutch or the transmission or something else? how much it may cost to fix?
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On my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
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I had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
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Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
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I have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn't start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise ... just wouldn't start. Got jump, still wouldn't start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I'm finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked ... battery's 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it's still not starting.
Car's gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that's what's wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it's not the starter switch. I'd hate to get it repaired if that's not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.
What's happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?
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I bought a 96 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab 4.0 on the 21st and the gear shifter doesn't go into 1st gear but changes to the other ones(see pic below) and was wondering if it's a easy fix.
Also I have a oil drip(at least it looks like oil to me) and I can't figure out where it's coming from because it's a small drip and the oil dipstick and tranny dipstick both show full and I can't figure out where the drip is coming from and I only noticed a dip on a metallic tank but don't know what that is either but check out the pic below to see the drip I circled.
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