Chevrolet :: 1948 - Water Periodically Quit When Coasting Downhill?
Oct 5, 2014
The following issue has been stumping every mechanic that I have talked too. We have a 1948 Chevy with a 350 ram Jet and 700 R-4 transmission. The water temp while on the road runs about 180, and up to 195 in town. The following is the problem. When coasting down a hill it will periodically quit, like the key was turned off. I have to through it in neutral, start it, and then put in drive while rolling. It never has done it at idle, on straight a ways, or up hill. No, I can’t avoid going down a long hill sometimes.
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I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 Signature Series. I have taken it to 3 mechanics re: this issue but no one can find anything wrong. For work I park in a 5 story parking structure. When I'm leaving and driving our of the structure, "downhill" , I coast slowly between the turns and when I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to drive around the corners/turns there is a loud "clunk" and you can feel a little "jerk" in the car. It happens everyday but the mechanics can't reproduce the sound or the jerk. What this can be? It has happened only twice when on a flat surface, again in the parking lot, when I'm slowly coasting looking for a spot and then give it a little gas to drive forward.. the "clunk" and "jerk".
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Typically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
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This is on a 2010 GTI with 20K km.
I've noticed a buzzing noise coming from the front of the car whenever I coast downhill. Almost sounds like an off-tune radio. Noise gets louder as the car picks up speed, and becomes quieter as I brake. What can it be? I think I was in 3rd gear.
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During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
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So our car has performed flawlessly since 2005/135K miles. Still getting 55 mpg in the display in the summer, 45 mpg in the winter. Only issue is traction battery SOC quickly goes to full green when coasting downhill, and 1 or 2 purple bars when climbing. In Colorado, this happens a lot. Within a mile or so coasting downhill the SOC is full green. Question is: should I replace the traction battery? Is there any harm to continuing to experience this behavior? When full green, I realize I am using friction braking over regen braking, have actually felt the crossover from regen to the pads, as the SOC goes full green.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu - periodically, they turns signals decide not to work. I don't know that one thing in particular causes them not to work. What could be the issue and is this something I can fix easily (I'm a novice), cheaply and quickly myself?
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I have a 2010 Chevy Malibu with @23,000 miles. The dashboard lights will periodically click off. At this point the numbers on the speedometer, gas gauge, etc., are not visible.
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My wife drives a 2004 Chevy Malibu and for the past year has had issues with the power steering periodically going out while driving. It has primarily happened when making turns at lower speeds <45 MPH and a dashboard warning will flash power steering when it happens. The temporary fix has been to pull over, turn the car off and back on and it corrects itself, but when taken to mechanic nothing registers as wrong. Was not as serious of an issue when it happened at low speeds, but the other day it happened at freeway speed. Nobody seems to have a solution, including Chevrolet.
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I have a Chevrolet Silverado 3500 1 ton diesel truck. The truck will periodically burn out glow plugs. I have changed glows multiple times and used different types. I have changed the glow plug controller and the coolant temperature switch with no change. I have checked all fuses and they are good. Checked voltage and the correct voltage is present. Why this is happening?
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At around 70 mph when I am going down a hill the automatic transmission will shift down from overdrive into 3rd or even 2nd gear. It should stay in Overdrive. I have to tap the gas pedal to keep it in overdrive. They already looked at the TPS. Also, around 75 mph my ABS light goes on and stays on until I restart the car. Not sure if this is related. Just had a complete brake job.
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Replaced the clutch on my son's 01 Cavalier 4 cyl. Replaced Clutch as it was slipping, and replaced hydraulic throw out bearing/slave cylinder at same time. New throw out bearing failed after only 500 miles or so, seal broken, started grinding on down shift and coasting (deceleration) followed by leak and no pedal. Replaced with new Slave Cylinder and Throw out bearing, the new one is starting to show same grinding noise on shifting and deceleration. What could cause this? Used the spline alignment tool to adjust the plate on center the right way. Could the pressure plate springs be off center? The flywheel was purple could it be warped and throwing the pressure plate springs off center thereby causing them to rub against the I.D. of the Throw Out Bearing slave cylinder seal?
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The car is 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier with automatic transmission.I had the engine stall several times and I coasted sometimes for a quarter of a mile with the transmission in gear. Can this cause damage to transmission?Later on I wised up and moved the shifter to neutral when the engine stalled.When I coasted in gear, I was getting some vibration that smoothed out when I put it in neutral.
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I am getting a light clicking from my rear Axel when coasting at a slow speed. It could be clicking at any speed but my car is to loud to hear it going down the road. I don't have more details than this. What to look for ?
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On my first trip with the new Santa Fe. After 400 miles today, while just 50 miles from Vegas, the A/C blower quit working. It sounded like it was blowing as normal but almost no air was coming from the vents. Being just 50 miles out I pushed on.
After arriving home (only 98 today luckily) I turned off the car and unloaded. After about 20 minutes, I started the car and the A/C and blower seemed fine. I looked at the ground and about a pint of water (at least it looked and felt like water I did not taste it) seemed to leak after I started it from the center of the car about even with the front door. What happened? Any cause for alarm?
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I have a 1997 Mazda b4000 new plugs wires head gasket an I cleaned out the radiator. My question is the truck runs good but my heat quit workin what could it be all fuse look good. Also there is water coming out of my tailpipe with white smoke. Should I be concerned.
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The water pump on my 2015 350 (6.2L) failed this morning and the dealer says it needs to be replaced. What might have caused it?
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I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
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Having issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
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