The Corolla was starting yesterday, but slow. Went and bought a new battery and replaced the old one. Cleaned both cables very good. Now all the lights work, everything electrical works fine, but the car will not turn over, not a click!
View 2 RepliesCar was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
View 19 RepliesThe AC in my 03 Corolla stopped working. A Mechanic originally diagnosed it as low in Refrigerant - brought it up to full charge. Stopped working again in a couple of days. I took it to a different mechanic who confirmed that there was no leak and it had a full charge. He could make the compressor come on by shorting a connector (located near the compressor). Otherwise the compressor does not come on when the AC is turned on from the switch inside. The blower fan works OK. The fuse is OK. The relay works OK.
The mechanic tells me that the only thing could be that the PCU ( the computer?) has gone bad and that only the dealer can replace it and reprogram it. The car has done 120,000 miles and I am wondering if its worth spending that much money to get it fixed -- that is if the PCU is the real problem. Could it be something else? Is there a way to get a used PCU and have it installed by a mechanic other than the dealer?
So my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
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I think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
View 4 RepliesQuestion: Have 2014 Toyota Corolla LE that was manufactured March 2014 and has the original size 35 battery. I live in cold climate where it is anywhere from 10 below to 25 above in winter.
I had the battery checked (temp was 55 outside when checked) and they said it was 356 I assume CCA's and that was okay. Does that mean the battery should get through the winter? When should a person replace battery if they don't want to wait for it to fail?
I recently got my corolla (2009) repaired and the technician said that the radio was not connected to the battery for about two weeks. Now the radio (even the backlight) won't turn on regardless of any buttons I press. All the fuses have been checked and are fine. Could this be some anti-theft mode in which something must be done to turn it back on.
View 1 RepliesSo, I cleaned out my car yesterday and I noticed a bit of corrosion around the terminals on my battery. I just wanted to know if it is actually bad and how I should clean it.
View 11 RepliesI recently purchased a 2013 Corolla with about 11K miles. This was a certified vehicle from a Toyota dealer. The battery the car came with died in 2 months. It was replaced with a new battery under warranty. Again, that one only lasted 2 months and was replaced with a new one under warranty.
How can I investigate this issue? Is it the alternator? Is there a drain somewhere in the system? The vehicle is 100% stock.
The key was left in a 2009 Corolla which ran the battery down. The battery was replaced because of age. New battery worked fine for four days. Then the car wouldn't start. Completely dead. The battery was checked by AAA. Ranger said it was fine. No power to anything expects red flashing light on the security system. I even tried jumping it.
View 6 RepliesToyota Corolla 2000. 77k miles
About a little under a month ago, when my dad tried starting the car, it would start up, make a weird rattling sound like "kakakaka" and then when you press the gas pedal, the car will shut down.
When we do get the car to work, and it starts riding for around 30 miles, the car seems to struggle to maintain speed and get faster even when the pedal is pressed further.
An engine light was shown for either P170, P171 or P0171 (reading off a paper and cant tell what the number is.) We took it to two technicians and neither could find what the problem is.
The light will occasionally turn off and when if you drive for like 20 miles itll come back on.
The first mechanic we took it to they removed and replaced the air/fuel ratio sensor. As well as put in a "Bosch Oxygen Sensor". Got charged 300 for this, and the lights still came on, problems were still there.
Went to another mechanic and he straight up couldnt find anything wrong so he didnt try replacing anything.
A family friend recommended a new battery, so we purchased a new one and put it in, but problems were still there.
Now today, after the car being inactive for around 10 hours, it completely failed to start. When you put the key in, it doesnt even make the usual sounds. We tried jump starting it with cables which did work, but then when we got home, turned off the car, it wouldnt turn back on. The doors wont lock (if that matters), the little light inside the car still shines though (if that matters)
Is this something I can solve, or should I take to another mechanic? If so, is it possible to bring it directly to a Toyota dealership or something? Because for the second mechanic he said he couldnt find anything because the parts were so old..
Today I took out the battery and cleaned off all the corrosion on it and put the battery back in. I tried to start up the car and it did work! I then turned the car off, and then put all the tools back inside, and when I went back out to try it again, it does not start up. However, when I put the key in, it made the usual (ding ding ding) noise, and it showed the seatbelt light. when I tried to start the car, it showed the Check Engine light, Low engine oil pressure light, as well as Charging system warning light.
I try a few more times, and after around 3 times, when I put the key in, it no long made a sound, and when I tried to start it, the lights were very very dim.
I tried my last time when it caused a spark on the positive connector.
So I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
View 1 RepliesWiring power from car battery to trunk for amplifier for subwoofer? How to do that easiest way?
View 2 RepliesI changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
View 2 RepliesLast February I got my car battery replaced. It was less than 2 years old and went dead if I didn't drive my car in at least the past day. I brought it to Sears and they replaced the battery and gave me a discount for the short life of the previous battery.
About 4 months later, it started happening again. Now it's down to only about 6 hours of non-driving. I had the battery tested at Sears, another garage where I was getting other work, and by my father, who has all the meters and is a former machinist.
Everyone says the battery is in good shape, the cables are secure, and the battery is taking a charge. It's a 2002 Toyota Corolla ....
2013 Corolla L
Stock head unit non-touchscreen
Kenwood KAC 9105D Mono Amp 900w @ 2 ohms OR 500w @ 4ohms
Two 10" Kicker Solo Barics (old school round ; will be swapping soon)
They are Single Voice Coil 4 ohm (wired at a 2ohm load)
I wired the red hot wire (4 gauge) from the battery to the trunk. The ground wire is on the shock nut (4 gauge). The amp has power. The speakers are wired to a 2 ohm load. Now how do I get signal to the amp? This is my first car with a stock head unit. My amp has speaker level inputs and an auto detect feature so it turns on whenever signal comes through. So can I splice into a rear speaker and run the wire straight to the amp correct or would it be better to get a line converter and run RCA cables?
I am pretty sure that my Denso alternator is shot. My 2010 Corolla S will not start, battery won't hold a charge either. I pop started my vehicle around 10:30am today and drove 30 minute north on the 101. My car appeared to have no issue maintaining power. I rode my bicycle around for about an hour and then tried to start my car. Nothing. Tried to pop start the vehicle twice...still nothing.
The battery has about 40k on it. Car has 121k. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Like I said the current alternator is made by Denso. I would like to buy a higher quality alternator with maybe a little more cranking amps.
I also am planning on purchasing a Optima battery, should I stick with a yellow top or a redtop. I have some aftermarket audio, only amp is in the Pioneer head-unit (avh p440bt), which is connected to aftermarket 6x9s and components (JL Audio c2-690tx and JL Audio C5-650).
330,000 km on car. I drove 45 minutes when battery light came on on and car engine stalled when making a left turn (fuel light had just come on too but not empty) and restarted on own, drove 10 minutes and it stalled again, so I pulled over and restarted. Drove 45 minutes home. No issues since. Shop says 10 year old battery and alternator are testing fine, though they suggest replacing alternator as it may be going. Could there be other electrical issue since the issue is more intermittent? Car would not stall immediately if alternator failing I would think - should run on battery for a bit and not restart. Drive maybe 400km per month and it sits for 10 days at a time.
View 4 RepliesMy uncle has a 1997 Corolla that has been sitting on his garage for about 2 years. We jump started the car and after a while recharging the battery, we saw fumes coming out from the engine. I then noticed that there was oil all over the front of the engine.. From what I have found in google it seems that this is a valve cover leak. How serious can these be? Are they easy to fix? because my uncle is thinking on calling the junkyard.
View 13 RepliesMy daughter's 2010 Corolla has an issue . She was driving and the battery light came. She kept driving and the car finally stopped. Prior to stopping the power steering stopped. I checked under the hood. I found corrosion on the positive battery post. I cleaned it and put a new end on and replaced the battery. The red battery light is still on which I guess indicates we need a new alternator. The power steering still doesn't work.Will a bad alternator keep the power steering from working? Could there be a fuseable link or relay for the electric power steering some where I should check? I hope the alternator is the fix. I checked on a new power steering motor which is part of the rack and assembly. I hope I don't have to replace these.
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