Explorer :: 2016 XLT 4WD With Light Clunk Sound / Click On Acceleration
Feb 5, 2016
2016 Explorer XLT 4WD light Clunk Sound Problem. I purchased a brand 2016 explorer brand 2016 explorer
and since new it has a light clunk sound and you feel a click on [URL] .... when accelerating in Drive out of Park. Brought it to the dealership and they don't know what the issue is.
Steps to Recreate:
1) From Park put the vehicle in Drive
2) Start accelerating in forward motion and I hear a clunk/click sound and feel it in the gas pedal.
The problem does not occur in that driving session unless you put the vehicle in park again and then back to Drive. Just to clarify its when you start moving you feel the clunk.
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I have a 07 Ls460. When downshifting from second to first there is a click that is sometimes a clunk. Lexus has replaced the trans with no change. They have cleaned and lubricated rear suspension bolts and replaced the rear shocks and springs and the differential mount. Again, no change.
This started at about 80k and continues at 123k. They have checked motor mounts, transmission mount and repacked the driveshaft spline. When the car is lifted into the air and the weight is off the suspension the noise will go away for a few days.
This noise has also been heard occasionally when rolling off the gas between 20/30 mph and then reapplying throttle. Lexus mechanics and area reps are at a loss to diagnosis. I have driven a 2008 loaner and it had the same noise.
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4. My truck has developed a "clunk" for lack of a better term when accelerating from a dead stop. It is not a shudder as it only happens once within a few seconds of depressing the accelerator and then goes away until the next time I stop moving.
It feels like either something in the drivetrain is not engaging right away, or something is releasing, like a stuck caliper or something. From the way it feels and what I've read so far about the TC/Trans, I'm assuming it is something worn in the drive-shaft/rear diff.
But it needs brakes badly (already have all new rotors & pads ready to install) so maybe a caliper is sticking when depressed and then popping loose under initial acceleration? I think this is unlikely but possible.
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I have a '74 Dodge B-100 van, 318 V-8, with a 3-speed A727 TorqueFlite tranmission (which was totally rebuilt about 20,000 miles ago). Overall, this old baby that we call "Blue Thunder" is in almost pristine condition. It starts well, runs great, and over the years has been highly reliable. It's been in the family for almost 38 years and is special to all of us. I've maintained it extremely well from day one.
Here is the big problem.....under very light acceleration at the 2-3 upshift, it makes a loud-sounding and aggressive-feeling "clunk" or heavy sounding "thump". Under hard acceleration, or accelerating on an upgrade (hill), it does not make this sound at all and I do not feel or hear it at all. There are no other accompanying symptoms such as whines, roars or vibrations. I recently took it to a reputable (in business for 35 years) transmission shop recently with the above problem description. He checked the fluid and adjusted the kickdown band. This same shop had serviced the transmission a year earlier. He recommended that I let him him take it to a general auto repair shop down down the street for a diagnosis on the "loud clunk" ....as he did not think it was a transmission problem.
I agreed for him to do so since, the shop "down the street" is also known for quality repair work. The written problem description was sent aong with the van. In a week or so, the auto repair shop called and said all they could find was a little wear in the spider gears in the rear differential. I gave them permission, since the differential was already open. to replace anything that looked like it needed to be replaced. It took a while to get the parts, but they replaced the spider gears, both side bearing cups, and 1 of the differential bearing adjusters. Of course the work included new gear oil and gasket for the differential cover. It was an onerous bill, but I didn't complain, thinking that the terrible "clunk" would be gone. I picked up the van and immediately noticed no difference at all. The loud "clunk" was still there under the exact same conditions.
I took it back and asked the owner to ride with me where upon I easily recreated the "clunk" by accelerating very lightly. He said, "Oh, that's in the transmission, because it's only makes the sound when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear". I called the transmission shop back and they want nothing to do with it....saying that a noise like that one is practically impossible to pinpoint. He said even if the transmission were rebuilt, he cannot guarantee the noise would not be there. Both shops say the U-joints, yokes, engine mounts, and transmission mount all look OK.
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2007 explorer makes a grinding sound I feel in the gas pedal upon acceleration. Also hesitates when acceleration on highway.....
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The problem starts after about 5-10 mins of start up and normal driving. First signs usually come leaving a stop light or stop sign. Hesitation, jerkiness, rough acceleration. It's usually slight, just enough to feel it. Soon it really shows up while keeping the truck at a steady speed, say 40 for example.
I finally heard what I would describe as a puffing air sound and figured vacuum leak.. finally! Nope.. it's coming from the rear underneath of the vehicle. I can't hear it in the engine, or the tail pipe.
2002 Ford Explorer xls 4.0 125k miles, I've replaced the air filter, egr valve, pcv valve, cleaned the maf and covered about every hose I can reach with carb cleaner checking for a vacuum leak. I've yet to try some of the other things due to hearing that puffing sound.
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Have had the plugs replaced....timing checked....it will misfire just going down the road....mechanics can not fix it.....Click and Clack for being there!...
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I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
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I had a pretty good clunk going on and found the passenger tie rod was shot. The rest of the steer components looked fine. Fixed it and still get a nice bunch of clunks. Went over the steering again with someone rotating the wheel and didn't notice any crazy movements. The drag link twisted a bit but the joints looked solid compared to the tie rod which was completely shot.
So I decided to dig into it today. Looked again and nothing. So I took it into my back yard to drive over some humps left from stump grinding. Clunk, clunk, clunk. I stuck my head out the window and wouldn't you know it the sound seems to be coming from the rear! Took a pry bar to parts like the sway bar links, shocks, etc.... can't detect anything. Maybe a u-joint? Gotta dig in I guess.
Also my rear springs creak like nothing I've ever heard. Dirt roads it's just creak, creak, creak.
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I just bought this car, had front brakes put on, rotors. I have noticed with stop and go in traffic that the engine revs and I have to hold the car back. Also when I release the brake there is like a light click or thump. Sometimes it makes the small sound when I put the brake on.
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I have a click/clunk in my front brakes, passenger side. Happens mostly braking and turning right into my driveway. It was recently attributed to a strut bearing, but this was not the case, and their replacement didn't fix the problem.
Dealer has said it's a common noise and occurs after service. The only way to stop the noise is to stop lubing the calipers so they drag.
I say they are full of crap. This has now been going on at least 30k km. I have documented it on every oil change that I can remember (always at the dealer). Any way I should be handling it?
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My RX350 is a 2007. Recently replaced the two front struts and noticed the passenger side is exhibiting this peculiar clunking/clicking/popping sound when turning. It mostly happens when turning in motion but once in a while when parked. Clunk/click sound usually only occurs once, or in a short series of 2-3 times, during turning.
Video of this clunk/click while parked : [URL] ....
Noise is almost silent at the strut mount/bearing, so I suspect it's lower in the assembly. Can feel the clunk/pop vibration with hand placed on the lower spring seat.
Took the tire off and thoroughly inspected things. No tears/leaks in any joint sleeves/bushings. Tie rods and CV joint look fine, as do strut mount, bearing, upper spring seat, insulator, rubber bumper, sleeve, and spring. None of these were replaced during the strut replacement as everything looked great and with only 55k miles.
I've not been able to reproduce the issue with the engine off, nor when the tire is off the ground when jacked/lifted.
During Google searches, it was suggested the culprit is likely either the strut mount/bearing or CV joint. We removed the strut today and everything looks the same as during the install. We can't reproduce the sound with just moving the knuckle around with the strut removed. Strut mount/bearings look in excellent condition.
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What is the source of the sound? Listen for the clunk b/w 3 and 4 seconds. I just dropped off my 2016 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x2 at the dealership. I'm afraid that they will say the sound is a characteristic but I never had the sound on my 2011 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x4. This sound happens when I go from drive to reverse or when using the exhaust brake when towing. The sound does not exist when the transmission is cold only when it is fully hot. It will also make this noise when climbing a really steep hill in first gear with fiver and the torque converter needs to slip a little.
As far as I can tell all of the u joints are tight and the axial support is tight I only have 2000 miles on my truck.
[URL] ....
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2012 f250 SC xl 6.2 - Is it normal to hear a single clunk sound on occasion when accelerating from a stop sign? Doesn't happen all the time mind you and I don't ever remember hearing it in the past.
Now just today, while backing up my driveway, as soon as I started the reverse motion, I heard the same clunk. Sounds like metal to metal and comes from the rear of the truck.
Only 7000 miles on her and I treat her like a baby...anything I should be concerned with?
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I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
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I continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
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It is the 2000 GTP 2 door. It is my sons car and is dead in front of my house. Changed the fuel filter as it is cheap to do. At the check valve there is no pressure in the fuel line. I turned it over with the hose off the filter it did not pump any fuel. I do hear a click or clunk in the gas tank when I turn it over suggesting it is getting power into the pump.
I almost went and bought a pump but do not really want to put the $230 + tax down without checking the resistor after reading around the net.
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2002 explorer 4.0l. No crank just click new starter in and cables hooked to battery...
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I'm currently having an issue with our 2008 Explorer, 4.0L, 4x4 RSC. The RSC light will come on, and there is a dinging sound. This has happened in the past, usually in town, slower speeds, etc. I had it checked out, but no codes were being thrown. The brakes (rotors & pads) are fairly new and in good working order.
Well, tonight it happened at ~70mph. It felt like each brake was individually depressing, even though the brake pedal had not been touched. I assume it's a sensor but plan to get it into the detailer on Thursday.
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I was told by the dealership that the battery was bad and needed to be replaced ( which I did) I went out to my car this morning and had the same problem. When I turn the key nothing happens. When I turn the key you hear a click but that is it.
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Have a 97 Ford explorer. Over 270,000 miles on it. Recently had Crank sensor, Crank case vent tube, plugs wires replaced along with intake manifold gaskets. Also had fuel injectors cleaned out. Now i cant get it to turn over. Went to store, truck started fine, came out and click. Thought it might be the battery even though its also brand new but no, had the starter checked, it is also good. Put test light on all electrical having to do with starter and found all hot wires and good grounds. Finally bypassed the solenoid for starter and still nothing but a click. I also checked NSS to see if that might be it but after putting it in reverse, the reverse lights came on, and even jiggled shifter in park and neutral to see if that might work but still just a click. Not sure where to go from here short of buying all new parts but doesn't make much sense to do that if they all appear to be working properly. Don't have a volt meter to check voltage.
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