Ford A/C :: 1998 - No Heat / Heater Hoses Cold
Dec 26, 2011
My son's 98 Expedition has no heat. The radiator and overflow tank are full, there's no air in the system. The radiator hoses get nice and hot but the heater hoses stay cold. We can hear the flow through the vents change when we change the temp control so I'm sure the blend door works fine. Seems like the problem is that no hot coolant is making it to the heater core. So I'm wondering if there is a diverter valve somewhere that could be bad that's keeping the hot coolant away from the HC or if a clogged HC is the only thing that could cause this.
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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I've checked just about everything, coolant level is good, engine gets hot, heater control valves moves, blend air door moves, the heater hoses don't feel as hot as I think they should, but the gauge reads in the middle, I burped it thoroughly and still no heat , blower works i actually can switch the blend air door manually, but no change! what am i missing? t-stat was changed too. 2001 sport trac....
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98 ford Ranger 2.5L.
I have not heat from the vents, doesn't get warm at all. If I idle the enginer in 30 Degree weather it gets to almost the C.
Upper Radiator hose is hot, I have verified the thermostat is new and it opens at 192 degrees as it should. Replaced the Water Pump, Fan spins freely.
I have attempted to burp the system, it isn't kicking out anymore air from the lines that I can tell. I used a large funnel and filled it with Anti-freeze, it filled the radiator, burped the system and the reservoir filled to overflowing. All with the engine hot. (To be specific the funnel was always full of fluid so no air could get sucked backwards)
The heater core hose on the left when looking from the front of the vehicle does not get hot, the one on the right gets warm. I theorize that the heater core is clogged up somehow and that is why that left line doesn't get hot. There is no fluid in the cab of the truck from the core.
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I drive a 2002 Ford Ranger and am wondering at what mileage should I change the heater and radiator hoses. The truck lives in Phoenix, AZ and is driven almost daily.
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I've replaced my heater core and blend door in my 2000 and getting ready to button things up. Can I hook up the heater hoses after the plenum top is screwed on to keep the core from moving when pushing on hose connections?
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1998 Ranger. I have no vacuum to the heater control valve (see link below) and hoses are warm/hot to the firewall. Where to start troubleshooting?
More Information for FOUR SEASONS 74809
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1998 F150 step side, 4.6 V-8 automatic, 176,000 miles -
Heater begins to blow heat as the engine warms up - heat gauge moves up to normal level - running at speed, suddenly the heater blows all cold, the heat gauge pegs to total hot - the oil light comes on, the engine begins to miss - stop the truck, shut off the motor, wait 10 seconds, start back up and all is normal and away I go. Heater working just fine. Gauges are just fine. Have checked the hoses when it pegged to hot, and they are just warm just as if everything is normal.
Problem is intermittent.
Have changed radiator reservoir cap, thermostat, made sure fluid level and mixture is correct - what else to check? Computer issue?
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I really need to know. Since the X has 2 heater cores, how do the hoses run that connect the two together? Do they run in parallel, or in a series?
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I'm feeling a bit embarrassed posting my delima, but I have a minor coolant leak which seams to be coming from where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and as well to the thermostat nuckle thingy. I have replaced all of the hose fittings with SS band clamps.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the water pump, thermostat, alternator, rad hoses, belts, coolant sensor, PS tension pulley. The water pump is now tight and sealed. Since then the temperature gauge has been continually fluctuating from Normal to near Cold.
I was wondering if I should have placed some type of sealant compound where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and also to the thermostat nuckle thingy.
Initially, I thought it may be residual trapped air in the coolant system. But after a week, it became apparent that the heater hoses were leaking at the engine, and at the water pump, connections.
What puzzles and torments me is why is the temperature gauge fluctuating so widely up and down? This is totally weird.
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I just bought a used 98 Acura 3.0CL. I've noticed that when the heat is cranked, it doesn't blow hot at all. I did some quick research and came up with two answers thus far; check the antifreeze coolant and that I may need to replace the heater control valve. Am I "warm" on the area?
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. What should I do next FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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My g/f's 98 Passat 1.8T has been pretty bad on being able to blow hot air inside, and now that its colder out its even worse.
Ever since she got the car, the coolant temp gauge is always at it's coldest, so I'm thinking its time for a greentop sensor. Her coolant right now is a lil low so, in the meantime, I'll be headed to the dealer to get both a new CTS and some G12.
Her fan does blow air, but could there be anything else wrong that would keep it from blowing hot air?
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I am working on a friends Neon and he been having an issue with constant overheating even through he has replaced the thermostat, the radiator, water pump and related hoses. However, he is missing the cap to the coolant tank and his heater core hoses are blocked, both incoming and outgoing. Could the blocked hoses be causes it to over heat?
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I have a 98 Toyota Camry, when I drive it for about 30 minutes both radiator hoses expand and seems like they want to burst.I removed the thermostat but still acting the same. Seems like the car is building a lot of pressure from the engine.. What could this be? Already replaced the water pump and have a new. radiator... The car does not overheat with or without the thermostat.
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2000 Expedition. Had ford mechanic replace front heater core due to not having heat in the front and back. wife brings it home I check all vents and notice there's good heat up front but not the back, then I switch the rear from panel to floor heat and hear a thumping sound (figure the blend door is doing it) still no heat in rear. returned to ford mechanic and they stated my blender door switch is not working properly, so they flushed out rear core and instead of fixing the blender door switch they kept it on floor position and charged me another bill. could it be possible that while replacing front core the gunk made it to the rear hoses and core, and clogged it up, and damaged the blender door switch somehow. prior to my heat issues I never had any problems with the rear blender door, just no heat due to front core needing replaced according to them "FORD".
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
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the only thing that is left to replace would be the radiator?my truck is a 1994 f150 and it is not overheating!i get lukewarm heat only on the highway,everywhere else it is cold air!!this new england weather is killing me
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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with a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
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