I have a 1992 Aerostar. My power locks wont unlock when the red button is pressed. Locks fine though. The problem exists in both door controls. I replaced both controls and the problem remains. What else could it be that allows me to lock but not to unlock the doors?
View 13 RepliesI am getting ready to tackle a few projects on the new X. First I would like to fix the door locks. passenger side front, it makes a noise when i hit the lock/unlock button, but doesn't move. Hoping it is the actuator but wanted to make sure first. Is the actuator the first culprit to fix? I guess, How do i know it is the actuator? Wanna order them from rockauto soon. I've researched on here door actuators, looks pretty simple.
View 2 RepliesMy trunk no longer unlock when I press on my remote, on the button inside the car or the button on the trunk. I have to open it with the key. My doors still works fine. What the problem could be?
View 4 RepliesSo I've got this 1992 Ranger extended cab with power door locks and neither side is working. It has power windows too and they work fine. I checked the 30amp fuse under the hood for the power door locks and it's good and checked it with a test light and it's good. What's most likely the cause that both sides don't work? Is there a way to troubleshoot with a test light to trace down the problem as a bad switch or actuator?
View 10 RepliesThe drivers side power door lock is starting to go out. The lock is very sluggish and sometime does not activate. Two months ago I sprayed the mechanism with some lite oil, that worked for a little while. I could not see the power relay on the power lock there is not much room to see inside the door.
1992 4.0L Aerostar...
After I install a after market backup camera, following problem occurred. Current is always on for windows even I didn't press power button.
View 4 Replies2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
View 8 RepliesThis started about 2 months ago. About 10% of the time when I depress the brake and press the Power button, all the dash lights come on except the Ready light (it acts as if I pressed the Power button twice without my foot on the brake). When I depress the brake a second time and press Power button again, the Ready light will still NOT come on. I have to press Power button with foot off the brake to shut off the dash lights (the car is effectively off) and then when I press Power button with foot on brake a second time, the Ready light will come on. I effectively have to try to start the car twice. I also noticed that the interior lights are dimmer when I open the driver's door until it goes through it's normal noisy gyration (something to do with the brakes?). I'm thinking that the 12-volt battery is starting to fail. Does my Gen III 2010 Prius have a diagnostic tool to check the battery?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry LE and the locks on the passenger doors and back doors stopped responding to the remote key UNLOCK OR the driver side UNLOCK button. I have to manually unlock the three doors. However, the key LOCK and driver side LOCK button works fine. The issue is only with the unlock. I had the same problem couple of years back and it became alright on its own. Now am having the problem again. The strange thing is that, sometimes it all works fine and sometimes I have the issue. Whenever I click on the Unlock button once, the driver side door unlocks. When I click it again, i hear the sound in all the doors and also the indicator light flashes / I hear the beep sound. But the passenger door and back door doesn't unlock.
View 6 RepliesMy newly purchased 1999 b5 passat wont lock/unlock with the key. The key does nothing and i dont have the flip key, i want to get a new flip key from the dealer but i am unsure if they can code it to my car if the lock dosent work i took the door panel off but didnt want to take off the inner metal skin to figure it out.
View 9 RepliesI did a search and read the manual but I can't seem to figure it out. Is there a way to unlock all of the doors by pushing the unlock button on the key fob once? I see in the manual it can be done I think by turning "remote 2 - press unlock" on in the car settings but it doesn't seem to work. Also am I reading correctly that there are no door unlock sensors on the rear doors? With my LS and my old IS I could touch the rear doors and all of the doors would unlock but this can't be done on the GX?
View 3 RepliesMy landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
View 4 RepliesToday I replaced my stock 95 Civic headlights with brighter (more white) halogen bulbs. The installation was fast and easy, however, I've noticed one problem after the installation; the remote power locks are no longer working. The car remote still flashes green when I press the button but I get no response from the power locks.
Because of this the alarm no longer activates when I lock my car from the remote. What could be causing the issue? Are the lights taking up too much power? Do I need a better battery? The lights are a big improvement from the stock lights however its very important for my car to be secure. It's been broken into twice, thieves love to target old Hondas...
I have a 1992 Aerostar with a 3.0L engine. For the past few weeks she intermittently didn't want to start but eventually always did. I replaced the fuel pump relay because she always have had problems with that. The relays are loose and get wet. Anyway, I thought i fixed it because I didn't have any problems for about 2 weeks. But one day didn't want to start again. She finally started and took her home.
Now, no matter what she wont start. I did some tests and there is gas been pumped but I don't have a spark. I put a new ignition coil and a new ignition module and still no spark. If im right, i only have 2 things left that could be the culprit, the profile ignition pickup, and/or the computer. Is there any other reason that could be the problem? I read online that in order to replace the PIP i have to take apart the distributor. Is this true?
My 1992 AeroStar 3.0L 2WD keeps cutting out like it's not getting fuel BUT...only after around 55 mph and after it warms up.
I first thought it was the fuel pump so I changed it. I didn't get a whole sending unit along with pump, I just dropped the tank and changed the pump...that didn't do the trick. Then I checked the fuel filter along the bottom rail and it's very clear flowing. Then I thought it might be the fuel pressure regulator. Ok, how many of you have changed the fuel pressure regulator? Man it was tough! I had to grind down an allen wrench to get room to turn those three allen bolts AND I replaced it while I was stranded on the side of the road!
Well, replacing that regulator didn't work either. I don't know where to go from here. It totally cuts out at higher speeds when it's warmed up. Could it be the oxygen sensor? It can't be the plugs. I don't think it can be the sending unit in the tank even though I changed its pump. Is there another fuel filter somewhere? I'm moving to another town and I have to get the van there.
Picked up another 92 extended! Seller's mechanic thought ECM died. When you connect the battery, the fuel pump runs, steady. 167K, same as my DD van! Plans are to pull the trans and swap tires first, and eventually pull the motor and freshen the seals and gaskets, and a timing chain. I would like to have it run first though. I'll take pics after it's hauled home.
View 3 RepliesI was driving the other day (cold weather- approx 15 F), and my serpentine belt shredded. Managed to drive a mile or so to my driveway. The belt was shredded on the fan side (and had come completely off), but it wasn't torn in two. Got a new belt and installed it, but upon test-cranking, found that it was riding up one ridge on the crank. All the other ribbed pulleys were fine (PS, AC). The smooth pulleys had the belt move a little, however.
Thinking I didn't set it right, I reinstalled the belt on the crank and tried again. Same result (belt rides up one groove, towards the fan). I perused the archives, and one comment was that someone simply trimmed one groove off the belt and everything was happy. The belt found it's "groove", and didn't act up anymore. Doesn't fix the underlying problem, but
1) is this a good fix
2) any clue what is going on?
3) Do I need to get the crank fixed?
BTW, I am sure that I threaded the belt on correctly!
1992 Aerostar, 4.0L, AWD. AC+P/S....
So long story short I have a 92 Aerostar AWD which I'm pretty sure had the transfer case recall done (97V204000 1992 FORD AEROSTAR Recalls) it has the aluminum driveshaft but a couple of years ago the transfer case cracked and I replaced it with a "New OEM" transfer case off eBay. Fast forward to the present and my van has a strong vibration at 60+ my transmission guy says it all looks good so the vibration has to be from one of the driveshafts. My thought is that I may have got a transfer case without the recall done on it and its warped my driveshaft. I don't really know thats possible or what I could do about it if that was the case.
View 8 RepliesFinally got my title, plates, and inspection for my 92. Started driving it to work Monday, and things were going smoothly until this morning. I noticed this van had as much road noise from the back as my 95 did, I assumed it was the junkyard fresh Prime well tires. Well, the noise seemed especially loud today, and then it went quiet. I knew this wasn't a good thing! I turned onto the exit ramp, and instant smokescreen! I was planning on replacing the rear axle seals this weekend, but that apparently wasn't soon enough.
Let it cool for a bit, then limped over to the Lowe's parking lot. Conveniently, there's an Auto Zone there too! My wife picked me up, and I loaded the car with jack, stands, and tools, plus a quart of gear oil left over from when I changed a seat on the 95. Long story short, pulled the driver side axle, and the wheel bearing was completely disintegrated! Luckily, I was able to get my paycheck a day early, so I can pick up the new bearing in the morning, as well as 'rent' the bearing puller.
Oil leak started suddenly - losing large amounts - dripping off front differential. Very hard to determine source. Ahead of Sensor Assembly. Drivers side.
Leak is very bad. Quart drains out in 10 minutes - solid stream.
Could it be the timing cover gasket ? Or is that too far back.
Tempted to use bars...
I have a '92 Aerostar XLT with a rear control arm problem. The bushings have worn out and the rear end floats side to side as much as 1 1/2 inches. Ford says one bushing comes in the arm ( no longer avail ), one is a press in (no longer available), and the other is like a strut bushing and is available but without the other 2 there is no point in replacing the one. How to fix this enormous problem???
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