Ford Aerostar :: Fault Codes From ABS System / Engine Cranks But Does Not Start
Oct 11, 2012
First, how can I get the fault codes from ABS system? I cannot find the connector from where to activate it. Looking for a picture where is it located, and how does it look letterike?
Second problem is with starting, occurs sometimes. I just crank the engine, but it doesn't start, when I play with gas pedal, then it will start with 2-3 cylinders, runs really rough for half a minute like this (I hold the gas pedal down, otherwise would die), then gradually gets better until normalizes. Some other time, starts and runs fine. It could happen both with cold or warm engine.
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Have a 91 Aerostar that won't start. Has fuel pressure, pulse to fuel injectors, strong spark, strong compression, etc.
Thinking that the spark may be coming at the wrong time I tried a spare ignition module that I keep. No luck. Since my distributor had a lifetime warranty I got another one, again, thinking spark was coming at wrong time. Nothing. Engine won't even pop.
I am going to drop the front pipe in the unlikely even that the new converter is plugged or, somewhat more likely, the muffler, but I am leaning toward a computer at this point.. Still don't understand since it is getting spark and gas why engine won't even pop.
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My van is spouting SRS fault codes 1-3 and 5-1. I had my shop run a diagnosis and it appears the module has failed. I'm having trouble tracking down a replacement. The Module on my van is Ford# F5AF-14BO56-AA. I see modules with -AD or -BD, but none that match this number perfectly. I also see lots of modules for related Ford vehicles from the same era. Looking for a ford parts number reference sheet that will indicate on what vehicles this module was used or if there is any chance that related modules are compatible?
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I have a 2008 MK4 2.0 with only 53,000kms. At 40,000Kms I put new OEM spark plugs.
Just recently, every morning when I start the engine is sputtering and rough running. The engines want to die but I give a little gas, and run rough like it is only firing on two or three cylinders.
When it gets to the normal operating coolant temperature it runs without any problem and I can use the AC. Its only give me this problem on the first start of the day.
Does not have any MIL light on the instrument panel. I scan it with VCDS-Lite and do not found any fault codes. The only thing that's come to my mind is to change the Green Coolant Sensor.
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My 2006 W12 has been trouble free since taking delivery over a year and a half and 30K miles ago. Just broke 60K total miles over the weekend and the engine light came on. I have pasted the scan below. I cleared the codes and drove about 500 miles before the MIL reappeared. I have read this thread: [URL] ....
My first question is: Is there any harm in continuing to drive it?
I have visually inspected the secondary air injection system hoses and can't find anything glaring (no kinks, leaks, disconnections). I am open to taking the car to the dealership but I have low confidence in their diagnostic capabilities. I am fine with them doing work once we know what is wrong but I want to tell them what to do (replace a bunch of hoses for example). How to proceed?
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 AJ HW: 000 000 000 00
Component: D1-6.0L-AT-LEV2 G 6722
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ3Z0E5400307
Coding: 0000173
[Code] ....
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I have a 2010 GX460 with about 81000 miles on it. I recently got the above codes and after researching it I decided to take apart the air injection valves, and also the motor to see what was going on.
Luckily these parts are very easy to access on our cars. Take the engine cover and front plastic cover off. The two valve are on either side of the cylinder head, and the pump will be on the left hand side, front of the engine bay.
I ordered two new valves, and ended up just cleaning out my pump.
Here are the Part Numbers:
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570138100
VALVE ASSEMBLY, AIR SWITCHING
2570238050
This is exactly what happened: [URL] ....
Here is what both of my valves looked like:
Here is what the air pump looked like:
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Ok, so I scanned a 2006 Passat 3.6 4mo. I got a fault for the catalyst system, a fault for the AWD controller, and a fault for the Haldex pump. I'm guessing the catalyst code is for the oxygen sensors? What should be my next course of action on the AWD stuff?
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Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Part No SW: 03H 997 033 M HW: Hardware No
Component: P3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 2370
Revision: --H11--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0000175
[Code] ....
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Bought a truck from a guy the other day. Long story, but he was a con artist. Told me the battery was dead from cranking it, he couldn't hear the fuel pump so he thinks it needs a new one. Got it home, checked fpdm, it was unplugged. Plugged it in fp running now. Charged battery. Cranks slowly won't start. Appears the engine has been changed. Have codes P0201-208, all injector codes. Cranking it over reminds me of an older distributor type engine that if off its timing. But also of cranking with a low battery. There's a new starter on it already. I'm going to pull the converter bolts on the weekend to see if they may have bound the torque when they installed the engine. Injector codes?
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I have a customer with a 2011 that has a ticking noise that developed into a engine miss with no fault codes. His mileage has dropped from 18 mpg to 14.5 . Heard the noise more pronounced in the left bank. Tonight I disassemble the engine and found the rocker arms by the pivot ball are showing signs of recent wear looks as if they had a die grinder taken to them. The rockers spear loose? The truck has over 100k on it.
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My check engine light has came on and I received these error codes
PO441 : Evaporative emissions control system incorrect purge flow.
PO 455 : Evaporative emissions control system pressure leak-large leak.
PO 446 : Evaporative emissions control system vent control circuit fault.
Also only my driver side fan is working, may be separate issue?
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with the 3.5l, AWD, 5 speed auto, and 65,000 miles. Its a daily drive. Out of the blue it won't start. It cranks, but it won't start. The battery is strong and it has 1/2 tank of gas. I figured my code reader would solve the mystery, but it's doesn't produce any error codes. With no codes I don't even know where to begin.
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All seems to be going well, drove the car for first 200 meters yesterday! Replacing the faulty parts is always easiest, just need to know if there are any shortcuts for fixing this. What's the engine oil temperature sensor? The one bolted in oil pan?
The intake air temperature is showing -40 degrees celsius.
MAF is plugged correctly.
VAG-COM gives me these following codes:
3 Faults Found:
000406 - Engine Oil Temp. Sensor (G8)
P0196 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0113 - 002 - Signal too High - Intermittent
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low
Readiness: 0000 0000
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Ok in parking lot car is armed but driver side door is unlocked press the unlock on remote will not unlock the doors however I can pop the trunk with remote. Try to start car and alarm is triggered and car will not start. I have fault codes like 00928, 01358. Is there away to disable the entire alarm so I can start it and get home.
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Picked up my rx300 on Monday. Got engine and vsc lights on. Tried battery off to reset. Worked for a day then back. Got a code reader and reset. Found a p00016 code? Crankshaft potion/camshaft position bank 1 sensor A correlation ?
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I picked up a 2007 GS350 AWD with a little under 60K miles a few weeks ago, I've been absolutely loving the car, but noticed the check engine light/check VSC came on this morning on a cold start; it also sounded a bit rough on idle. I have an Android to bluetooth OBDII scan tool for my other cars so I pulled the codes, and it's showing P0300, P1600, P1700, and P1800.
Searched the forums and nothing comes up for those specific codes. But the first couple of things that came up as culprits for check VSC were the gas cap and brake fluid; went out and bought an OEM gas cap and made sure the brake fluid was topped off this afternoon. I reset the faults and drove the car around, but the lights came back on about 15 miles later. It drives and shifts fine, but I still think it's a bit noisy at idle.
A little background on the car: The previous owner only drove it on weekends and for events here and there, hence the relatively low mileage. The car was sitting in his garage for almost a year before I bought it, he finally got rid of it because he wasn't using it. I grabbed it despite a higher asking price because of the mileage and how clean it looked, but now I'm a bit worried. Is this bad gas? Should I flush all of the fluids? MAF or other sensors? I'm a bit lost.
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Recently my daughter's 2004 Accent will die out without warning usually at stop lights, and will be hard to restart, usually after numerous attempts. It will crank over fine. This has been very intermittent. I have checked for fault codes, there are none. I haven't been able to really determine the cause because I have not duplicated the issue. I have replaced the fuel control module located on the driver side kick panel after reading about problems with this module, but it did not remedy the issue.
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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What the fault codes below could be indicating. Let me quickly bring you up to speed. I was experiencing and issue with my car running rough (engine miss/hesitation) between 1200 and 2800 rpm. My ESP and CEL lights both came on. Eventually, my car stalled on me while driving. After attempting to restart the car a few times, the engine finally started. I took the car to two dealerships and was told the Mass Air Flow sensors and Intake Manifold Runner were faulty and needed replacing. After reading some of the post on the forum, I deduced the intake manifold runner would not cause the car to stall. That said, I purchased two new MAF sensors and replaced them myself to no avail. I still had the problem. I took the car to an independent mechanic (who has experience with phaetons). He hasn't been able to identify the issue. He provided me with the fault codes below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 4D0-907-560-BGH.lbl
Part No SW: 4DO 907 560 CS HW:
Component: 4.2L V8/5VG 0030
Coding: 0007873
Shop # WSC 01065 000 00000
VCID: 79F21F7E33C272C
6 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
What I should do next. My car starts fine and idles smoothly. After driving the car for a few minutes, the engine miss/hesitation shows up.
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My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
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Sunday I received the dreaded DEF system fault message on my 2012 CC SRW SB FX4 with 7800 miles on it. Warned me that speed will be reduced to 50 MPH in 50 miles. I have a CTS Insight, so I checked for DTC's. First one was P2200 - NOx sensor circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), the second one was P204F - Reductant system performance (Bank 1).
After 50 miles it warned me that speed would be reduced to 50 MPH on next restart. Sure enough, Monday morning speed was limited to 50. I took it to the dealer, but I should have left it running. When the service guy started it, the fault had cleared and it no longer showed the P2200 NOx sensor code, although the P204f code was still there.
My question is, why in the world would Ford make it so that the code is cleared if the fault goes away, especially after putting you through the 50 MPH limit scenario?
Dealer did a reflash and said its OK now, but I'm not so sure. My trucks build date is 10/6/11. I read TSB 11-11-13 which states the NOx sensor module should be replaced for P2200 on trucks built before 10/11/11. Is that only for a persistent P2200?
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Encountered this check engine problem > 16805 and 16815 < I replaced the 02 sensors, problem solved for 1000 kms, and now the dreaded light is showing its face again ! Possible secondary air system at fault? Cat about to go, or already gone?
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