My 1999 f150 is having issues of bucking while going down the road and it only happen on a hot day. It's like someone is turning the key off then back on.It's only for a split second. I'm having trouble determining if this truck has the fpdm or not. and if this may be the issue. Fuel Pump Driver Module ?
View 8 RepliesWhen I'm driving i have noise that's driving me batshit crazy. Sounds like a rattling. It happens when there is bass or bumpy road. Door noise or headliner ....
View 14 RepliesI have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
I have 2002 4.2L F150 w/ Manual Transmission. The problem I have started about a week ago. I noticed it started to idle very rough and at times felt like it would almost stall if i didn't keep giving it some gas. Then a few days later it started to jerk/and buck intermittently while accelerating. I changed out the plugs and wires. My coil pack was replaced a year ago but was still under warranty so i installed a new one just in case. I cleaned and inspected the EGR valve and replaced the TPS. The rough idling seems to have cleared up but the jerking/and bucking still remains.
When the engine is cold the truck runs fine, and then as the engine starts to warm up it will jerk and buck while accelerating at any speed. Once the engine has reached its optimal temperature the jerking/bucking goes away and it runs smooth as silk. I can drive it for for a few hours with no issues whatsoever. As soon as the engine cools, the cycle starts all over again. I figured maybe the intake gaskets were on their last legs and when they heat up they seal tighter causing the engine to smooth out.
So I replaced the upper and lower plenum gaskets today and cleaned everything up. It still did not fix the problem.
I have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
I just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 automatic... it ran great for a few days and even ran fine on the 100+mile trip home from the previous owners house. All the sudden it shut down on the highway today. I could barely get it started again and when it did start, it ran like hell, bucking and jolting, almost like a really bad misfire. I could also smell trans fluid being heated up, so I let it sit awhile and then it fired right up. It drove for about a half mile and began to act up again. I threw it in second gear to limp it home which it died several times on. Each time I'd let it sit for like 15 minutes with the negative battery cable off. It fires right up after that but the problem quickly returns. Also the overdrive button doesn't work, and the trans control switch fuse (spot 29) blows repeatedly. Also the power door locks do not work.
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 F150 4x4 it recently started shaking badly on the front end at about 40mph but levels out at about 45 to 50 mph or if slowed back down to 35mph. I can't find anything worn or loose except the sway bar bushings are completely gone on both driver and passenger sides. I have read about the "death wobble" but can't find anything else worn out! I can do most all repairs and checks myself.
View 2 RepliesMy 02 F150 4x4 at times gets a shake through the steering when hitting road cracks, pothole fills, etc. Would installing a steering damper system work or am I missing something to check in the front end. Ball joints are good, all steering linkage good, new shocks all around, control arm bushings look good and don't seem to shift when prying with a bar. Also changed all sway bar bushings and links. Maybe the control arms just have to be changed with 103,000 miles on it even if they appear OK? What about using an aftermarket steering damper on a stock F150? My long gone 82 GMC 4x4 had one from factory but it was also a solid axle setup.
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 F150 4.6 threw the #3 plug on the passenger side while going down the road at 65 mph. It threaded back in and tightened up to make it the last 7 miles home. I have read that Time serts are the best option but I need this truck daily at work. Has anyone tried using the Heli Coil system as a temporary fix? I am going to order the Time Set kit but since I need the truck now, I was wondering if it were possible to pick up a Heli Coil and insert it until my Time Sert kit arrives?
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 1997 F150 4.2 Liter. On the way home it started missing. Within the next few days it died on the side of the road. After towing home I found no spark. A few days later I t started but only for a few minuites and died. No spark, coil pack is new so I replaced the CKP and it started up. Drove it about 1/2 Mile and died again, No spark again. Not getting power to coil pack when I am turning it over. So in short, new coil pack and CKP sensor and no spark. If it sits for a few days it may start or it may not. But if it does it only runs for a short period and then no spark again.
View 3 RepliesI have a 97 F-150 4wd and when I drive over rough places on the road you can hear a rattling noise. It also causes my truck to thud loudly. But also as I just coast at about 10 mph with the window down you can hear that rattling noise. Almost sounds like a washer sliding on a shaft or something. You can definitely tell something is loose in the front end when i hit rough places. We've jacked it up and tried to move the wheel and the bearings and ball joints seem tight.
View 6 RepliesGot this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
My wife’s ’97 RAV4 has 135,000 miles on it. Two days ago it started bucking/hesitating (feels more like bucking, and its worse if you try to give it the gas) at speeds below 25 -30 mph. No loss of speed/power when going uphill. Its worse when the engine is cold.
I cleaned the throttle body with spray cleaner, no change. I added Prestone fuel system cleaner to the gas and have driven 20 miles since then. Very little if any change so far. I always use good gas (Chevron regular) and the car has been well maintained (primarily by me).
Timing belt, seals and both bearings were replaced two years ago. Just about a year ago I changed the plugs, air filter, distributor cap and rotor. The fuel filter has never been changed, and the spark plug wires have never been changed. What I can try next? Where is the fuel filter located? I have the Toyota repair manual. It shows a pic of the filter, but not where its located. I have one ready to install if that could be the problem.
I have been having a problem for a while now where my truck will miss/buck at WOT. This only happens at higher RPM's. From a standing start 0-60 it is fine. However when I downshift full throttle from about 50 MPH it initially goes, but then it will miss/buck consistently until I back off the throttle.
I have so far replaced the CPS, re torqued injectors, checked valve cover harnesses and fuel pressure stays in between 64-58 full throttle. No codes show up.
My truck runs great except as I described above. I would think an injector or two are bad, but the truck runs and idles great. My initial guess was that it was a fuel pressure issue, but fuel pressure holds strong. Could it be air in the fuel?
If I don't keep her plugged in she starts hard, bucking etc. I'm thinking GP or GP relay but I`m not getting any thrown codes. Talking about *30-*50 outside, when its warm starts normally.
View 14 RepliesI have recently picked up an older F350 2WD 7.3 DRW Lariat. the price was right higher miles but hey it is a 7.3, overall in very good shape.
So the issue at hand is the truck runs great most of the time and puttering around at city speeds you would never know there is any issue;
Get the truck out on the highway set the cruse at 70 to 72 and if you hit a rise in the road or other reason to slightly accelerate the truck chugs and bucks. For lack of a better description it goes chug chug chug, if you accelerate harder to downshift it goes away or if you back off the throttle it goes away. This happens with cruse on or off, a steady foot on the pedal will cause this as well.
I have also noticed that when you let off the throttle the sound the truck makes de-fueling is just very different and "off" sounding . Not sure how to describe it but it sounds funky ... clearly not right when compared to other 7.3 or my 6.0 truck.
What I have done, :
1. Had the truck scanned with an AE and a snap-on scanner both show no codes ran injector tests no contribution errors, not even in # 8.
2. Changed fuel filter
3. Changed Oil and Filters ( tried both full synthetic Rotella and Dino oil looking for a difference )
4. Cleaned out the fuel filter housing just in case.
5. Confirmed injector O-Rings are not leaking
This feels like a fuel issue, my next thought was start looking at fuel pressure under load at speed to see if there was a drop when this is happening ?
Is there a way to test fuel pumps in this truck ? Maybe a clogged pick-up screen ? Where do I start looking next ? I have reasonable mechanical skills but don't know this motor very well, this doesn't seem like a CPS issue..
2000 Ford Excursion, 7.3 PS with 210,000 miles. I am on I40 at a truckstop. I was rolling down the freeway last night when the truck started bucking. I pulled of the freeway and here came a thunderstorm. I waited til this morning to check for codes cheap scanner. I pulled a code P1211. I waited for NAPA to open so I could take it in the shorts. I bought a fuel filter and an ICP sensor. After changing them out, the truck runs then starts missing. My battery is about to die so I will finish post shortly.
View 14 RepliesI have been chasing this vibration that seems to happen around 50 to 60 mph. It seems to be the last 2 gears in the transmission. It's not really a chatter, but more like a drive line vibration. At 70mph it goes away completely and is smooth as glass.
I have had the driveshaft rebuilt once, and just recently balanced. I am convinced it is not in the driveshaft. While it was being balanced the tech removed the harmonic balance r weight that was on the rear part of the shaft. Now the vibration seems magnified.
I was thinking it may be the clutch that is incorporated in the torque converter. Is there any way to disable the clutch just to see if it is the cause of the vibration? The truck had a lift and big tires on before I got it. It is now back to stock. It's a 2005 F250 crew cab short bed 170k miles.
165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
My 2003 Camry with the 2.4 engine sometime bucks when you let off on the accelerator pedal. Sometimes when you just lightly back off on the pedal it feels as if the car is braking slightly. I do not have the problem all of the time and I'm not getting any OBD fault codes. The car drives fine except for this problem. I am thinking maybe the accelerator pedal sensor or maybe the mass air flow sensor may be the cause.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1997 f-350 crew cab 4x4 w/ off road package and 7.5 fuel muncher power package. My engine stalls going down the road w/ no warning. Sometimes it will start back up immediately, and other times not until i cycle the ignition 6 times or so.it seems to be getting worse as time goes by. Since it started i replaced tps, cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I also replaced fuel tank and pump and filter about 1.5 years ago. Some other issues to clear up, but concerned w/ current problem.
View 2 Replies