Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Intermittent Starting After Running For A While And Shut Off
Nov 30, 2013
2001 F150 ... I'm having trouble with my truck starting after its been running for awhile and then I shut it off.... I have to let it sit for a few min. Before I can crank it again and it will start. I was driving down the road and it just died on me the other day that's what started all this...
The fuel pump and filter was already replaced and I just replaced the cam and crank sensors ... but its still acting up...... I'm not sure where to turn next... No check engine light ..... I have a scan tool and checked for soft codes but nothing.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
My 97 f-150 starts up every time.........the first time. After I drive for awhile and shut it off it gives me a hard time starting. It just cranks over but wont start. If I give it gas it catches and tries to start but dies out right away after I let go of the key. Sometimes after up to 10 tries and 20 minutes later it starts up again, so far! Also there is a gas smell, but I am thinking that's because of putting the gas pedal to the floor. could it be plugs? i bought it with 180,000 miles on it. I pulled a plug and it does look pretty rough so I am going to change em tomorrow.
The parts store calls out iridium plugs. the guy told me any plugs will work. said the only difference is the mileage you get out of em.
50,000 on regular plugs
100,000 on platinum
150,000 on iridium
Not sure that's the case but I bought platinum. I changed the plugs and wires and it runs great now. stopped for gas yesterday and still had to put the pedal to the floor for it to start. only one try and it started tho...... what next?
View 14 Replies
2002 7.3 PS TD.
Lately sometimes when I get in and start the truck all is well. Then the next time it will spin like a top, but not fire. New batteries. Then it will fire right up. It may go a few weeks, or days, then it happens again. Temperature does not seem to be a factor. It also doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Once when rounding a corner at low speed, it just died, then started right up.
I recently changed the fuel and air filters. I think the glow plugs are getting old. In cool weather I turn the key on for about 1 min. before cranking. I have 110,000 on the engine with all original parts.
View 7 Replies
My 02 f250 w/ 7.3 won't start. Cranks and nothing. No smoke or anything. For the last year It has had a intermittent starting problem, where I would drive it for 15-20 mins. If I shut it off like I would if I was at the fuel pump and then restart it, it wouldn't. I'd have to wait 30 minutes with a hood open and then it may start. Other times I would have to wait hours.
I tried replacing the crank position sensor, the fuel pump and filter.I did all this in the Last 300 mile . There's No change. After a week or two of sitting it won't start. What can I check and what can I try.
To add more info. Since I am not the original owner I pulled the computer that is located behind the ebrake to see if someone else had installed a chip, as I've heard that if that chip goes bad then the truck won't start. I disconnected that battery and pulled it. Negative on any chip. Put it all back together and tried again. No start. I borrowed a code reader tonight and pulled a P1280 code. I'm back to square one.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 Impala 3.4 with an intermittent starting issue. It starts perfectly every morning but after it is hot and I park it over 15 minutes or so it will sometimes not start. All the regular dash lights come on as normal but when the key is turned it does not even try to turn over, it is just silence, To get it started I have to hit the column shift lever upward several times and then it will kick right off with no hesitation. Sometimes I have to turn the key 10-20 times to get it started also. I had the battery, starter and alternator tested under load and they are all fine. It is not the security problem either that many impalas have. The only code I have is a PO 336 for crankshaft position sensors. Is there some kind of linkage in the column that could be worn that could cause this?
View 5 Replies
I have a '03 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport thing with the 2.5L boxer engine, standard, with 160,000 miles.There is an intermittent starting and idling failure that i thought started because of the colder weather rolling in(25 at night 35 during the day). When I turned the ignition to start it, there was a huff, it sounded like it would start, but it would simply shut down after about one second. If I depressed the throttle it would run at 1.5k rpm but only with my foot on the pedal. If i took it off it would die. Here's where it gets odd. The other night I had been getting rid of some rust on the undercarriage and so i kept the car indoors overnight. In the morning it started fine, and ran fine for an hour. I parked it and went to run an errand. 20 minutes later when i got back into my car to start it, still warm, it was 49 degrees outside, i started it and it went dead again. The same happened two days later after I had driven it out of the garage, I drove it for about 20 minutes, got out for less than five minutes, and when i got back in, it did the same thing twice. My uncle says it could be a hose leak.
View 5 Replies
2003 F-150 v8 4.2 4x4 with 295k miles ...
Yesterday while driving in town going 35-40mph my F-150 gauges spiked just before the engine shut off. While still moving I shifted to neutral and tried to restart, no go so I was able to stir to the shoulder and park, turned the key off. Sat there for about 30-60 seconds and the truck started up and I was able to drive off. [added] Forgot to mention, there was no check engine lights or anything, when I drove off, it was as though nothing happened. Not sure if it matters but temps out here was about 105 degrees and I was blasting the AC (which seems to take longer now to cool things down a bit).
I've had the truck since '04 and the second owner, been pretty descent with fluid changes and such, in fact was on my way for quick oil change when this happened. The tech there thought it could be either the alternator (battery is roughly 6 months new) or the ECM.
View 10 Replies
I have a 1995 f-250 7.3 liter diesel engine. Truck starts fine and runs good for a while and then it will stall. I pull over and after a couple of attempts it will start and run fine for a while. I have changed the fuel filter and put fresh fuel in but it still stalls.
View 7 Replies
My '02 F150 180k X-cab with the 5.4L is leaking coolant when it is shut off. Its just pouring right out.It looks like it's coming from top of the trans and around the firewall area. I had to replace a drain plug already.. the one behind starter ..its not leaking.
View 4 Replies
My brother's truck is a 2001 reg cab manual 4x4 with 4.6 and auto tans. Truck has roughly 130 i believe on it, this mornig he had blower on high in defrost position about three miles from leaving his apartment he said he heard a POP and the blower quit. No burnt smells or anything he said. SO Im gonna check the fuse first after that what should i do? Is there a relay for the blower? And do the new trucks have a resister for the blower speeds? If so how do i check these parts?
View 1 Replies
Vehicle is stranded on the side of the road (safely) and here's what happened. Driving (normal) 1/4 mile away from the house, motor shut down. Pulled off, tried restart. Motor turns over normally and all gauges work (temp/oil/volt). The only weird thing is that the O/D light on the end of the shift selector stays on even after pushing it on and off. I plugged in my OBDII reader and it will not link with the system. Yes... the ignition is on Is this indicative of a fuel, computer, electrical issue? or all the above. Worst case scenario is i have it towed to the shop tomorrow and they diag it. I don't have the proper tools to diag this.
View 9 Replies
1997 F150 4x4 4.6. Truck was running fine ...suddenly shut down & now no spark, no fuel pump run, no start
1. Shot ether -no start
2. pulled plug - no spark
3. Checked crank sensor - reading .5 - .6
4. Checked fuel inertia switch - seems good
5. Switched fuel relays - no change
Thinking ECM/PCM. Also.. ?? will the "no spark" condition create a "no fuel pump run" condition ? or visa versa? I'm not positive about the reading from the crank sensor... it stays solid at .5... should it move up & down or remain constant ?
View 5 Replies
I went out to my car this morning and the fans were both running full speed. That's before I even got to it then they carried on doing so when I started the car and still ran after I shut it off. I have stopped them by pulling the 30A battery top fuse for them but what has caused it and how I can fix it? Preferably not too expensively as I am moving house next month typically.
The car is a 2003 1.8t GTI with climatronics ....
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 F150 with the 4.6 engine. I get an intermittent drop in the idle from 700 RPM to about 500 RPM. The computer catches it quickly and brings the idle back up. It might drop several times and clear up or it might not happen at all. Seems only to happen on a hot engine, never when cold and in gear, if in park or neutral seems to idle ok. Changed the idle air control valve but no different. Runs fine except for the idle dropping when stopped.
Never get a check engine light, and no codes from the computer when I had it checked. Could this be the vapor management valve turning on?
View 8 Replies
The Truck...
1999 F-150 Supercab
170K miles
4.6 Litre
Automatic Trans
The Problem... About every other day, I try to start the truck, and it doesn't fire at all. It cranks fine, everything seems right, but no start.
What I've done...
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay.. (no luck)
Sprayed Starting Fluid In and Cranked... It Fires On Fluid.
Other info...
This problem never lasts long, and the problem mysteriously fixes itself after no more than an hour.
This problem has occurred both when the truck was warm and completely cold.
View 3 Replies
01 supercrew 4.6. Have had intermittent no start. The first few times it did start with a jump. Cranks fine but I thought the battery was weak. Replaced battery, same issue. 40 psi gas pressure at the fuel rail with analog gage. Theft light blinks with battery inserted. Theft light not illuminated while cranking. Battery light flashes while cranking. Battery is brand-new and charged. Opened and closed inertia switch several times to check.
View 12 Replies
Ok I've been getting a intermittent misfire on my truck for soem time now. It ran great all winter but now its getting hotter it intermittently misses. Last summer I replaced all the coils. And the coil inquestion now was replaced since last summer with Motor Craft Coil. I have red the check Engine Codes a d here is the freeze Fram data
DTC :P0351
Fuel System I : Closed Loop
Calculated Load: 71.37%
Engine Coolent temp: 199.4 F
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 : 3.91%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 0.78%
Short term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 6.25%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 0.78%
Engine RPM :1613.25
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 4.35 MPH
What might be my problem? Since The Short Tem Fuel trim from bank 1 and Bank two are vastly different could that mean my fuel injector is not working correctly?
View 11 Replies
Over the last few days my f150 has developed a really annoying squeal that's intermittent. I can never really predict when Ill hear it. Usually I first hear it when I am accelerating to a speed greater than 30 or 40 mph. And it will continue if i keep my foot on the gas or if i slowly hit the brakes. Usually the only way it will stop is if I slow down to under roughly 30 or if i hit the brakes. pretty hard.
But sometimes Ill hear it at various speeds just for a second or two, usually when I am turning or when I am decelerating by taking my foot off the gas and not braking. again its hard to predict. It sounds really similar to a car with squeaky brakes. and just like squeaky brakes, you can hear the noise slow down as the f150 slows down. but again it doesnt only happen when i hit the brakes. I dont know what it is.
View 10 Replies
Its the 5.4 ....its been an ongoing problem...first it wiuld happen once a month starting maybe a year ago. Turn the key off and try again and it would start up easily. Gradually became more frequent...maybe a couple times a week now and sometimes taking more than one attempt. It died on me while driving last week...started easily again. Today after driving i parked it and a few minutes later it would not start even after 10 or so attempts....waited 10 or so minutes and started right...killed it and restarted 5 times easily. Brought it home killed it and it would not restart.
Now its starting again......so i cant troubleshoot something that is not working. I ruled out fuel pump/regulator because it is either running good or not at all and also it would not start immediately after killing it. There should be engage pressure in the lines to do something but its either a start or no start situation. Its not showing codes either....so I am guessing that rules out sensors....? ......so i guess something is causing a no spark or a no fuel inj. Pulse......... I have a cam sensor i bought a few weeks ago and never put on trying to aviid being stranded.
View 14 Replies
2003 F150 4.2L V-6. Cranked ok but no start, no check engine light. Plenty spark and could hear fuel pump running. Thought it might be out of fuel but gauge showed over 1/4 tank . Added ~2 Gals fuel anyway, started immediately- no check engine light, no codes set. Thought- bad gauge sending unit. Dropped tank and found plenty of fuel and sending unit checks good. New pump on order but what else could cause the problem?
View 7 Replies
Truck in question is 2002 F150 4.6 with 150K miles. Crew was on interstate tonight driving 65 MPH and truck shut off. They called me out to trouble shoot. Engine had oil (was a quart low) and will not start. Starter engages but will not turn motor over. Had truck towed back to my shop. I removed belt just to see if it may be a locked up pulley i know, long shot)... it was not.
Employed called a shade tree mechanic he knows and trusts. He said was likely a broken timing chain and that is a common problem in 4.6. Said locked engine is probably because broken chain is wrapped around shaft. When I turn key fan does move about 1/4 inch.
1) Does this sound like a possibility or even a plausible explanation? Just trying to verify the information.
2) If this is the case, would a repair be advisable, or is engine likely shot and i should just replace it?
View 4 Replies
