I just bought a 2006 Texas Edition F150 with key less entry but the instructions and assigned codes did not come with it. How do I find what the code is to operate the system?
View 8 RepliesWhere can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
View 14 RepliesMy brother just bought a 2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4x2 4.0 V6. Where to find the code for the keyless entry? I took a look under the dash "driver side" but didn't see anything....
View 4 RepliesDoes my truck have a keyless entry module? If so where is it?
View 9 RepliesI have looked at many of the other treads and I can not find the answer. How do I locate the keyless entry code sticker in my 2008 F350? I just bought the truck used, I do not have the card that is delivered with the truck and I don't want to pay the Stealership to hook it up to there computer. I am looking for the RAP or the computer module as it is called in the owner's guide.
It is not behind the glove box, there is no longer a fuse access panel under the dash like the earlier SD's, the drink holder under the upfitter switches does not "pop out." Before I start with any tools, I am looking for input.
I just got an 08 F-150. No key fob and no power locks but it does have what appears to be an anti-theft device that blinks on the top of the dash. I would like to have keyless entry. What steps should I take?
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2004 Lincoln Town Car . I am trying to find the factory set master code for the keyless entry. Is there a website that I can enter the vin number and obtain the master code?
View 6 RepliesI was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
I recently bought an 09 Ford F150 Fx4 and didn't get the door code from the owner. I looked and found what I think is the door lock control module above the fuse panel but the only 5 digit code doesn't unlock the door. What I can do the get the code?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Explorer with the Factory Keyless Entry on the driver's door. It recently quit working with either my code or the factory code. I have cleared my code, and the only response is that the keypad will light up, and I can lock all doors with the pad. It refuses to take a code to unlock. Other than the dealer route (and a possible new GEM)? The wireless remotes continue to work well.
View 14 RepliesI just got a 2000 ford excursion on April 1st and love it. Where to find the code for the drivers door keypad? I've been under the dash on the drivers side, behind the radio and everywhere else people on google said to look and still can't find it. I have some time, I have to get the electronic locks ...
View 9 RepliesI just bought a new to me, '09 F-150 4X4. It is plush on the inside and didn't have too many miles on it. One thing that was lacking in the owners manual or any other material in the owners package was the code to unlock the doors. The local Ford dealer wants to charge to get the code for me. I was told there was a site one could go in the internet, plug in some information about the vehicle and the code would be displayed.
View 9 RepliesI can't remember my door code and don't want to take it to the ford dealership and pay. I know there is a code up under somewhere but I can't find it? 2005 f-250 lariat.
View 10 RepliesThe new to me 2012 dually has lost its keyless entry code card. I know on the 08-10 models you could look up behind the radio to see the code. Looking for physical location on the 6.7 family?
View 8 RepliesThe keyless entry for my Freestar has just started acting up out of the blue. It will occasionally work after repeated button pushing on the fob.
It does this for both fobs
It does this for all buttons on the fobs
I have tried changing the fob batteries
The door buttons inside the car work just fine
What can cause intermittent functionality of the keyless entry system? Is there a box under the dash I can unplug/replug or a fuse I can change?
The key ring part of the fob for the keyless entry on the truck (2006 F250 V10) broke a while back. Finally got around to buyin a replacement only to realize that the keyless entry that came with the truck is not OEM. It's an Omega L2M 4410.
In trying to cycle locks to replace the fobs, the locks will not cycle. Tried everything that can be found on forums, youtube, etc. all to no avail. This leads me to believe that the aftermarket keyless was put on because there wasn't keyless from the factory.
I have experience with installing aftermarket systems, but this one stumps me - can't find where the system was installed in the first place. To me, this sounds like it should go to a shop for further investigation.
I have a 2008 Chevy HHR. On Monday both the key fobs for the keyless entry system quit working. I took both fobs to my local auto parts place where they had a tester and both seemed to work ok. What inside the car receives the signal from the remotes and activates the locking mechanism. All other electronics within the car is working. On Monday we had to have the car jump started when someone left the key in the ignition on Acc setting. Besides testing the fobs I changed the fuse for the Body Control Module (BCM).
View 1 RepliesMy keyless entry is suddenly acting funny. 2010 manual accent hatch, bought new, no problems at all so far. 50k on the clock.
Usually when I press the unlock button, the marker lights flash once and the drivers door unlocks, press again you get another single flash and the other doors unlock. Right?
Press the lock button and it should flash twice and lock the car. Press lock again and it will honk.
I had not driven the car for about one week and this morning the locks work ok, but the lights and horn are not doing what they should.
When I unlock, I get no flashing lights at all. When I lock I get the double flash, but no horn. Also, the panic mode works as it should, lights and horn.
I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300 and I have had the car for almost two years now. I have noticed that when I use my keyless entry button to unlock and lock the car, its not as loud as it was in the past. My key fobs all have new batteries in them (2 kays for the car). Could this mean that I need a battery soon? When I first got the car, the "beep beep" noise from when you lock and unlock the car was louder, now you can barely hear it.
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with my keyless entry and liftgate. It began as an intermittent problem and now it is constant. I am unable to use my keyless entry. I have checked the batteries, reprogrammed the remotes and nothing works. I am unable to open my liftgate at all unless I go in through the access hole in the liftgate from the inside and manually flip the latch. WHAT A PAIN!I did some online research and found that this is an issue with the 2006 trailblazer. According to the information I found, it seems to be an issue with the wiring between the liftgate and the chassis. The "short" tells the vehicle that the door is open, and this is why the keyless and the liftgate have issues. I have taken the tape off of the wires, disconnected the coupling and inspected them. I do not see any frayed wires or rubbing issues. Where do I begin troubleshooting which wire is the problem and how do I fix this?
View 3 RepliesI've recently purchased an off-lease 2007 Sonata and have the following question about the keyless entry. When I unlock the doors I notice that there is a short flashing of parking lights, however when locking the doors with the remote there is no indication.
I believe the manual says there ought be a short chirping which I am not hearing. The remote is just for keyless entry (no alarm is present). While this may be related, I find the horn sound is not very robust (actually quite puny). Is this normal for this car?