Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 6.0 4WD - Low Rumble Noise / Whining When At Light Throttle Load And Above 50 - 60 MPH
Nov 21, 2016
I have a 2003 F250 SD with 130K miles. I primarily use it to pull a race car, about 5000 lbs is all. It has all the upgrades, from studs to EGR delete. Ford replaced the automatic transmission in 2005. I'm looking at a truck newer than 2011, but thinking either a flex fuel 250 or diesel. I want it loaded and 4WD, but they seem expensive.
Anyway, I have bad front wheel bearings. I know this because of the low rumble noise and how it acts when I rock the steering. How tough are they?? I build my entire race cars, so I have a well-equipped garage and some ability to cuss, but I don't have a lot of time. A buddy wants to do it for $300 total for both sides plus parts cost.
Also, this is the bad part I really need input on. It has a whining when at light throttle load and above 50-60 MPH. This seems to come from the floorboard area behind me. Gear changes do NOT affect the pitch, but a change in throttle crowding makes it louder and weaker. It has no coast down noise at all, and the noise pitch seems to track the drive shaft speed. It is a whine much like the low gear set in an automatic trans, but it does it in any gear with or without 4WD on. The only thing that affects the level is slightly pushing the accelerator, speed, or weight I am towing.
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I have a 2003 super duty V10 4WD super cab long bed.
loud deep rumble noise when turn on the blower. both heat and a/c. removed the blower and seemed to turn ok. blew out all vents. removed heater radiator cover, checked most flaps to see if working. doesn't seem to be obstruction invent. the flap behind blower clear and functioning ok.
When on second speed, almost sounds like blower motor is out of balance. if run on high for 1 minute, smell electrical burning! Think to replace motor will work? will post another issue with radio and power windows
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This has just started this past weekend out of no where.I went to accelerate up a hill and when it got to around 2500 rpms it just starts acting like a rev limiter kicks in.When i let off throttle it smooths out and runs fine, seems anytime its past quarter throttle it doesnt not want to move anywhere.If you drive normal in city conditions or on a nice flat round with barely any throttle it runs fine.I replaced the fuel filter no change, removed air filter no difference.Its actually at the shop now and they say its a transmission problem, my opinion i disagree fluid is up, no burning smell, and shifts fine under normal (slow) driving. 2001 Super duty 5.4 triton....
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Experienced rumble type noise, like if you drive over those highway rumble things on the edge of the road. It happens at low speeds like 30 mph or lower and more prominent when you come to a stop. It came on all of a sudden . Replaced new tie rods, dampener and stabilizer bar links and still have it. Tires wear great and thought the hub's were still turned in as it sounded the front differential drive line was going around. This is on a 2002 F250 crew cab.
The complete tie rod kit that connects to the the pitman arm isn't cheap, it did need replaced as there was a lot of play in it but damn, when on a set income and it still have same problem , very upsetting. On social security disability and I told them that I can't keep spending money on parts that they told me were bad and it didn't work. Everything is tight on the wheel according to the tire shop , it takes me a while to get underneath and I can't find anything .
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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I have had this whining noise that I'm not sure what it is. It sounds like its comin from the alternator area. There are three symptoms that are confusing me though, 1st is I only hear this whine as the weather starts getting colder and the colder it is the louder it is. 2nd is it only happens around 1800rpms like when it's getting ready to shift to the next gear. I can get it to whine when I'm parked and bringing the rpms up. 3rd is after 10-15 minutes when the truck is warmed up - no more whine. The truck is used very little duing the summer and I had this whine all winter last year. Alternator appears to be working fine and I do plow a few driveways every storm. Money is tight so I don't want to replace the Alternator an find it wasn't the problem.
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Have a 02 v10 125xxx miles have had grinding noise on drivers side sounds like driving on rumble strip took out the unit hub everything looks good changed out the needle bearing because it was frozen still have sound after needle bearing replacement sound goes away if hubs are locked so question is it the unit bearing or stub shaft...
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About 20 miles into it, and it starts cutting out on me under load, over about 1/4 throttle. I baby it a ways further, and park at a wal-mart. Idles fine, but once again, after 1/4 runs like crap, acts like it's back firing through the intake spit and sputtering. Have the wife come pick me up since I was heading to work. Decided to shut it off, and restart, and it acts like its never had a problem.
Was messing with it today, and let it warm up in the driveway. Once it got hot, same story good 1/4 throttle, past that, not so much. Shut it off, started it back up and drove it to see if there's any codes at vatozone. Drove good (laying into the throttle) for about 2-3 minutes, back to same behavior. Hooked up code reader, no current codes, and no historic codes. Although I did notice (actually since I bought the truck) that the check engine light never comes on, even at initial start up. Looking at my spare cluster, it's an l.e.d. So no bulb out I guess unless the led is bad. Truck has around 130,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.
I'm leaning toward a fuel pump, a clogged cat, or a fuel pump relay or cutoff switch problem.. It doesn't have any other issues than that, and has been a good truck for the 10k miles I've owned it... 2003 F250 5.4...
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I was having a ticking problem with the engine under load so I went ahead and did my manifold gaskets. I had a new 5.4 put in my 02 f350 last winter, and at that time I also installed gibson shorty headers. The tech had to plug the egr port with a pipe plug. But any ways, I pulled the headers last month and I used Percy's aluminum header gaskets. I also took the time to wire wheel all of the flanges and the mating surfaces. The one on the ball and socket flange was leaking on the passenger side, so I permanently sealed it with some 1800* epoxy.
The leak seemingly went away for a week or so, but it has returned. I sprayed down all of the mating surfaces with soapy water, but I can't find the leak. It only happens when accelerating or when i downshift to go uphill. So, at my wits end, I went to try and retorque my spark plugs. I've done half of them so far. Haven't driven it yet, but i was curious as to others thoughts on the subject. This leak cannot be heard at idle, nor at any RPM while in park or neutral. It is only apparent when driving. Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
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I have a 2014 super duty extended cab truck and at times I get a vibration noise which seems to come from somewhere around the antenna. The little rubber flapper at the base seems to move and isn't tight against the metal. Is this causing the noise...
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I purchased an 1999 F250 Super Duty truck last Sept., it ran great all winter, now when I accelerate I notice a whining type noise (that's the only way I can describe it) it only does this during acceleration not @ idle, could this be a bad water pump? However there are no leaks or puddles of anything in my driveway.
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I noticed my truck makes a high pitched whining noise. It does it at idle and while acceleration up to 40 mph or so. The pitch of the wine increases with RPM'S. It is not the cold start whine issue I have researched on YouTube.
It is in the cold or warmth. No difference. It's always there. My 2012 6.2 did not sound like this at all. I have crawled under the truck and it appears like it is coming from the transmission.
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I bought a 2004 6.0L F-250 used a few weeks ago. There have been a few problems here and there that I have been competent enough to fix. I am now facing a problem of A: the truck not starting (I believe it was just a battery problem, charged and started fine). But also B: I have had a slightly frayed serpentine belt that I noticed a few days ago. After I got the truck running from my the no-start and driving it around the block I parked it and went inside. Came back out a few minutes later and I tried to start it. It hesitated a little bit but started with a loud whining noise and white smoke coming from the belt. Turned the engine off and saw on one of the bottom wheels (pulleys?) some residue that looked and smelled like burnt rubber. Is this just simply a need for a new belt?
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2004 6.0L Excursion Limited 4x4.
I recently developed a "rumble" with vibration while braking. I describe it as a rumble because I associate it to a similar sound, cadence, and feeling as if you were slowing down on the rumble strips you find on the side of the highway.
It is mostly only noticeable at lower speeds. I know the sound and feeling of warped rotors, but this seems different. If it makes any difference, one issue I've been dealing with is that the front transfer case does not release when 4x4 is off and hubs are in AUTO.
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I was wondering if there is a aftermarket product to give my truck a more Rumble when starting and idling.
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What this clunk could be?? in my truck in signature, 2003 F350 CCLB 4x4, 4" lift. its only low speed, on very light bumps. really does it when the truck flexes, like turning into an elevated driveway or something. driving me absolutely insane the last few months. it sounds like its coming from right under my feet
-removed front shocks and drove
-removed front sway bar and drove
-front wheel bearings are new and tight
-front leaf spring, rear upper shackle bushings are new (thought that was problem..no)
-front leaf springs and bushings are new, although i suppose its possible to have a bad bushing already
-removed traction bars and drove
-removed front track bar and drove, but going to try this again.
-all cab mounts look ok
-took out cab mount under drivers foot, and cut down the metal piece a little...read about it on another thread on here. no change
-made sure my gooseneck ball couldn't rattle
-steering box is new...thought that was it
-steering shaft is solid
-transmission mount bushing and crossmember feel tight
-lubed front driveshaft slip joint and it doesn't have any u joint play
-rear shocks seem ok but haven't removed them yet
-fuel tank is solid
-rear driveshaft has new carrier bearing and u joints, all is tight
-exhaust is not hitting anything
-u bolts all tight, spring bolts are tight
As you can see, I've been through damn near everything. my only thoughts right now is a possible bad cab bushing, or bad leaf spring bushing...as it sounds like its right under my feet. and when you flex the truck, it makes all sort of popping and clunking noises. i had the truck on my buddies lift and we went under it for an hour yesterday looking around with no luck. only thing i found was a bad traction bar bushing but we removed them and it still does it..
Most noticeable at the end of the video...it sounds exactly like a bad sway bar bushing but that's not it...
Front end clunk - YouTube ....
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I was going to put new ball joints in but wimped out and had my mechanic do them. I'm too old to be doing that kind of crap. I just replaced the fuel pump with the correct one. That's enough under truck time for a while. 91,000 miles on the originals, stopped the rumble / rattle when I hit bumps in the front end. Getting the alignment Tuesday. Guess I got my money's worth out of them. Still has original brake pads too. Thinking of doing an upgrade to the brakes, drilled and slotted, I tow an RV and need it to protect the idiots that pull out in front of me. 2001, V10, CC ......
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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Alright i got a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and its stick, when i let off the clutch to start moving, and at low speeds like mainly 1st and 2nd gear. Right below the cab there's a loud kinda growling or rumble, it shakes the truck a bit til i start moving good. Then it goes away. But what it could be? I think pilot bearing.
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My vehicle had a shudder which felt like driving over a rumble strip. It would usually occur after hitting a small bump at around 35 mph and hearing a clunk underneath. The shudder lasted just a few seconds. Checked the whole steering, suspension, chassis, drivetrain, u-joints, rear e-brake shoes etc. Finally found that the RF axle shaft could be moved up and down excessively in the steering knuckle. Removed axle shaft, R&R u-joint, vacuum hub seal and the torrington bearing in the hub. (used to call it a spindle bearing) ...
There was a little bit of wear into the stub shaft where the spindle bearing rides. That removed the play from the axle when it was all re-assembled. I was very happy until about a month later when it started doing it again, but not as bad as it was originally. I think maybe the stub end of the axle shaft needs to be replaced due to the wear in it. I don't want to just throw a somewhat expensive part at it without some info about "superduty shudder".
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My current truck is an early 99 F250, 7.3L diesel, CC 4x4(manual shift transaxle) auto transmission. It is basically stock, with the exception of a hutch/harpoon and a new fuel pump over the winter, an AIS intake. I have a magnaflow exhaust kit in the garage along with bellowed up pipes but have not installed them yet.
Here is my issue. Several times over the last 2 years, the truck will pull a load, or long trip, and with complete randomness, the engine will feel like it has shut off, there is usually a jerk or two, and the truck "restarts" itself and continues on like nothing happened. Last year we drove 1.5 hrs from home with the boat in tow, driving up Snoqualmie pass, and it died completely, no restart. We had to be towed home. It started right up at the shop, so no real clue of what happened.
When this happened, I had the fuel system checked for pressure and replaced the engine fuel filter, and all was good. I also had the Cam position sensor replaced/updated to the new grey sensor. Shortly after, I had the minor jerk/stall occur again, so I replaced the fuel pump and did the hutch/harpoon mod to ensure there wasn't an intermittent fuel pressure loss and that the in tank filters were not clogged.
Last weekend, i pulled my boat to Oregon, and the same "hiccup" happened as I was about 1.5 hrs into my trip. it was fine after that the rest of the 4 hr trip. We also drove back the same route and had no problems.
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