Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Coolant Gauge Drops To Zero Erratically And Then Comes Back
Jun 18, 2014
My truck is essentially stock except EGR DELETE. Lately I am seeing my coolant gauge in the cluster drop to zero instantly when the truck is warm. A quick glance to my edge monitor shows my ECT temp fluctuating wildly (but not stone cold) ranging from 65-190'ish degrees. The weird thing is even when it's showing low on the edge, Gauge showing nothing, it kicks my fan in. I would have thought that shouldn't happen because it's still showing a value ( very low yes) but maybe it pops into limp mode?
I am also having other gremlins like driving along all warmed up, come up to a hill and if I back out of the throttle, boost drops to zero and even with holding the pedal to retain the speed I am at, it just drops speed with no boost.. I then have to stomp on it and the boost will ramp back up. It will show something like 85% VGT but zero boost.. Is it normal to show zero boost with 66% vgt at idle in Park with no boost? Getting all sorts of codes lately. The coolant one is very intermittent (every drive several time but not every minute)..
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A few months ago I had a battery go bad. When I started the 2004 F250 6.0 it barely started. After that my transmission gauge became the engine coolant gauge and the engine coolant gauge became the transmission gauge. I tried disconnecting batteries but that did not work. I have the Scan Gauge tool and confirm the gauges are reading correctly but just swapped. So I'm wondering if the is a reset procedure for instrument panel.
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I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
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Got to work this morning, sitting at idle for a few minutes in parking lot, all of a sudden fuel gauge needle drops to below 'E' and the fuel light comes on and beeps. I know I have at least 1/2 tank of fuel. What would cause this?
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177,000 miles, fuel pump was replaced just before I purchased it a few weeks ago. Truck has been running like new until today when it started doing this completely out of the blue. If you watch the video, the sound is not off, the tach is moving independently of the sound of the actual revs. Occasionally when doing this, the fuel gauge drops to zero. Thinking this is an electrical issue somewhere.
YouTube.....
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We inherited a 2004 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L V6 with about 110K mileage. Basic problem: sometimes on startup the car runs terribly. It's like a cartoon car--it wheezes, bucks, snorts, revs up, drops back down again, etc., and cannot be driven. You know as soon as you turn the key whether or not it will run correctly. Sometimes when you turn the key, it starts up fine and runs fine. We've taken it to two different repair shops--our local guy and the dealership-- several times, and $1,700 later, it still happens. These are the repairs they have done: replace the map sensor, replace the camshaft position sensor, replace the crankshaft position sensor, replace the powertrain control module, replace the throttle position censor and, finally, replace the pigtail for the map sensor.
The codes usually indicate a problem with the map sensor. As a matter of fact, the last time we took it in while it was running terribly, our mechanic unplugged the map sensor while it was running and the engine ran smoothly while it was unplugged. This is what caused him to put in a new pigtail for the sensor. Anyway, after that last repair, a few uses later, the car acted up again. We've learned that if you let the car sit for a few minutes after a bad start up, it will often start up fine the next time you try. One note is that the problem has not occurred as often this summer as it did in the cooler months.
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I have a '99 F-250 super duty with a 5.4 L engine and I am having trouble starting it. Initially it wouldn't turn over at all, so I had the battery checked, it was fine, and after charging it the engine would turn over very, very slowly once or twice then stop. I then replaced the starter and now it turns over very erratically but wont start.
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Ever since January My fuel gauge has been acting up big time. I can have any amount of gas in my tank at any given time and the fuel gauge will fall to empty resulting in the fuel and check engine light coming on. The gauge will then return to its position (it still doesn't read correctly) and the check engine light will stay on. I took it to the ford dealer and they said to replace the entire fuel sending unit assembly. I bought the oem motorcraft fuel sending unit assembly and did it myself. The only problem is, I still have the issue. I'm currently checking fuses and relays, By the way, my truck is a 2004 f250 fx4 5.4
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I read a lot here about the best antifreeze coolant. If the truck will never, and I mean never, be exposed to freezing temperatures, do I need antifreeze? Our lowest ever temperature was 66 degrees or so.
What should we use? I have a 2004 550.
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Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
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I have my 2004 f250 6.8L. Recently my truck has been having issue with the oil needle. When im stopped or coming to a stop my Check Gauge light comes on and my oil needle drops all the way down. As soon i step on gas it goes right back up. What could it be?
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The flashers and blinkers work, the taillights, brake lights and back up lamps do not.
The truck is a 2004 F250 4x4... Checked all fuses. What am I missing?
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This is and 6.0L 04 135000 miles. I was pulling a load up a hill when the turbo back fired this was no fart hose blew off at bottom of rad, hose clamp was gone. I reattached hose but now I have lost some power and getting poor fuel mileage. I think turbo is making a howling noise at higher rpms I pressure tested the system does not seem to be any leaks, I'm assuming there something wrong with the turbo, but is it possible the hose clamp was sucked into the rad?
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
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I just bought a used 2004 F-350, 4x4, crew cab, short bed, 6.0L diesel. I'm having a WTF moment on fuel. Gage indicates just under 1/4 of a tank of diesel but the on-board computer is flashing like crazy stating 5 miles to empty, what the hell is that all about?
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My tachometer hangs out around the 600 RPM spot when I first start my truck, but lately it will end up dropping to zero when idling, and then bounce up to about the 200 RPM point when accelerating. Its not the Cam Positioning Sensor (I had that happen with my 99 7.3) and this truck runs great. I am thinking it could be at the tach.
Question is: Where does the Tachometer signal generate and does the PCM do anything with it before it sends the signal to the Tachometer? The reason for focusing on the Tach is since the engine runs and idles fine, then that tells me the PCM is receiving the correct signal from the engine and making changes accordingly. I read about a 5.4 gas engine with rain issues, but the only issues going on here is extreme cold (tonight, -15). I keep the truck garaged and when I go out, it is for purpose and then return home to a heated garage.
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I have an 05 F250 Super Duty 6.0 V8 Turbo Diesel. This is my first diesel so don't know my way around it too much yet. I just don't know what could cause this problem. It sounds like a faulty sensor to me. But no engine light has come on. My oil pressure drops down to in the red zone when I brake while driving, then once I return to driving again it returns to the normal pressure. It's almost as if it has something to do with the tilt of the vehicle.
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So they tell me I have lift assist, but the tailgate drops like a stone and must weigh more than 80lbs! When I asked they told me that was how they worked. Other trucks I've had would drop by themselves smooth and slow...
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While driving today, 2006 Ford F-250 5.4 L V8 138,000 miles , I experienced a problem. Started with the truck acting as if it was running rough, possibly missing. This was approx. 10 Minutes after starting. Checked the dash, no warning indicators and all gauges were normal. Approx. 4 more miles, the oil pressure alarm signals and I see the oil gauge has dropped to zero. I pull over, turn off and check the oil. Oil is clean and at a normal level. I restart the truck and the oil pressure goes back to normal.
Rev the truck up while sitting there and after a few seconds i hear a knocking noise in the engine and oil pressure drops again. Call the tow truck, driver used to be a mechanic . He asks me to start it again and the same thing happens. If you start it and let it idle oil pressure seems to go up to normal with no engine noise. Finally get to the mechanic and he calls me later saying the oil pump and screen may need to be replaced or the engine may need to be replaced.
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I'm have a 2011 6.7, 180,000. I have noticed a high pitched whistle, not an turbo whine, that disappears after the boost drops to less that the first mark on the gauge 5-10psi??? It stays consistent in tone, the mileage is good, power is good normal 6.7!!.
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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