Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F250 - Small Leak In Engine Side Radiator?
Mar 27, 2016
The truck has 64k miles and has developed a small leak on the engine side of the radiator with no apparent damage. There is no variation on the pressure test and the dealer was able to find the very small leak with dye in the system. It has lowered by about 3/4 of a gallon of coolant over the last couple of months. There are no visible signs of a leak but you smell the coolant when you stop the truck.
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I'm trying to troubleshoot a leak on my 08' F250 with a 6.4 powerstroke. It's been dripping coolant when cold pretty aggressively. Once the truck heats up, the coolant leak seems to mostly go away.
Here's a picture of the drip, it's marked by a dart, so you can see the location from the top (second pic). The radiator house connection around the engine seems dry.
Pic from Top ....
What's hidden here that could be causing the leak?
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Where this small leak coming from. Under my radiator hose. Took a pic of the leak.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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Background: Some inconsiderate fellow manually collapsed my mirror for me and now it will not fully swing open. I can force it, but will not lock in the full open position. I'm sure the locking mechanism is jammed or worse broke, who knows.
I've removed the mirror from the vehicle but am not sure how to get to the inner motors without breaking something.
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I have a new 2013 f 250 gaser the truck I noticed sits crooked it is lower on drivers side by almost 2 inches and not from the fuel tank.
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1999 f250 with some mild upgrades. Trucks got 189,000 miles. Stole it from an older guy for 4k. In fantastic shape. As the weather got colder I noticed an exhaust leak. Took it to a muffler shop only to find that it's got an aftermarket header on the passenger side only. Is that common to replace only one side?. the gasket has gone bad and needs replacement. I wanna replace both headers?
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Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it? 1999 5.4L F250 SDuty....
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I have a leak at the driver side exhaust manifold. Its a little tough getting at it to tell if its a lose bolt, crack or bad gasket. What would be the best way to get at this area? Should i remove the tire and wheel well or is their a better way. If i can get at it i may replace the manifold all together.
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I have a 07 6.0L and the other day while cleaning it out I noticed that the carpet on the passenger side was wet. I have never noticed it before so this had to recently start. I don't think its heater core related as its completely clear and doesn't have a smell to it. I am also not loosing any coolant. The truck only has 18,300 miles on it,and it sits most of its life until recently after I took it over.
It has never had the windshield replaced,to be honest nothing has been replaced. I don't believe its a/c drain related either, the hvac controls have been in the off position for the last 2 weeks,and just 3 days ago after drying the carpet out completely(with a fan), its wet again after a nights rain, not as wet as before, but its damp.
And last night it was pouring down rain and I had the carpet pulled back to dry/air out, so I thought I would go out and take a look to see if i can see water coming in. Sure enough there are 2 trails of steady water flow. Its coming from directly under the glove box, there is a silver canister that is held on by 2 screws, its dripping down 1 of those screws. I cant quite make it out where its coming in from, but i am thinking the blower housing.
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I found water under carpet next to door. Appears to be coming from area above center of vehicle. Only occurs during rain etc. Not from A/C or heater housing.
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I have a 2002 Ford F2 50 that has a diesel leak on the back of the engine. I've already replaced the drain valve that was leaking. Then I noticed that the front of the engine was dry now but the back of the engine still has some pooling With a very small drip off the back of the engine between the transmission housing and engine. Not as bad as it was of course But still a small drip. Where this may be coming from? And how to fix it?
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My truck had a small puddle of anti-freeze under it last week. It has been sitting for a couple of weeks with no issues until I noticed the puddle. After I cleaned it up, it hasn't leaked for a few days. I obviously can't find a source. What could have caused it to leak and then suddenly stop?
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2002 F250 SD 4X4 5.4L. 4.5 inch pro comp lift tire size 305/75/R16. K&N cold air set up. 208,000kms
I know the truck does horrible on gas but lately is been getting worse, maybe I am getting 350km to a tank. Mixed highway city driving. Sounds like I might have a vacuum leak somewhere but I have no engine light. I've had the truck since last year and put about 10,000km. on it done regular oil changes .. brake maintenance no motor work so far.
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Just this morning I tried to remote start my '13 F250 6.7 and all i got was the doors lock and a two honks. The two honks are usually when there is a door left open when you click the lock button two times but all of my doors were locked. After I started the truck with the key and took it out to go run a errand I noticed the check engine light turned on. Could this be connected or just a coincidence?
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About a week ago I began smelling coolant after driving my 2012 F350 6.7. Yesterday I noticed a small amount of coolant on the ground and decided to take it to the dealer. As soon as I told the Service Manager what was going on he said......"You need to leave it......there is no doubt in my mind it needs a radiator". They pressure tested and and sure enough it does. He said they are replacing about 2-3 a month but there is no recall.
Here is where it gets fun. Apparently radiators fall off at 36,000 miles and are not included in the 100,000 Power Train Warranty. It gets better. The Radiator is on national back order for 5-6 weeks.
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2001 f-250 7.3 radiator. If you ever have to change the water pump think about removing the radiator first. Looks like they are paper thin and very easy to damage. Must be a problem since the local parts house carrys them in stock. Just thinking.
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Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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I was washing my 2004 F-250 today and I looked down by the front passenger wheel well and I noticed a small chuck missing from the bottom of the frame. The other side in the same spot doesn't have it and at the spot in question, I noticed some sort of crack had been welded before. I never had any of that done to the truck. What about getting it fixed? get it fixed right away or keep an eye out for cracks. so far its just that hole and what looks like a welded crack above. everything else seems fine. I know a repair would be inexpensive and easy just to weld a steel or titanium plate on the spot.
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I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4 ...
I have a rattling noise coming from the front suspension (both sides) when going over small bumps. Most people point to ball joints, but I find my case odd because I just replaced
Upper/Lower ball joints
Track bar
Tie rod ends
Shocks
Front U joints
Drag link
I did not touch the leaf springs or the sway bar, except to grease the links, which otherwise looked good.
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