Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Smell Of Gas / Hole Rubbed In A Small Hose
Apr 11, 2013
Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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2001 f-250 7.3 radiator. If you ever have to change the water pump think about removing the radiator first. Looks like they are paper thin and very easy to damage. Must be a problem since the local parts house carrys them in stock. Just thinking.
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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I was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
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99 F250SD V10. There are two connections on the heater core at the firewall. Is there an 'inlet' and an 'outlet' or does it not matter? Put a cummins in the truck, the V10 has been out for a while and cant remember which one is which.
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I have put a new steering pump on my 2002 f250 and all new hydraulic hoses. I plan to install a steering pump filter on the system to protect it from anything that is not steering pump fluid.
There are two intake ports to the steering pump. One is near the bottom of the pump and takes fluid from the steering pump cooler after it has left the steering gear. The other intake port is near the top of the pump and takes fluid from the booster.
My question is - which hose would be better to put a steering pump filter on? Is there anything wrong with putting a filter on both? I imagine the first intake hose is constantly circulating fluid and the other only circulates it when the steering wheel is used.
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My uncles 1999 v10 started to leak from the high-pressure hose on the gearbox. Replaced the hose which lasted for a short time but is now leaking at the same spot. The hose swivels, is this normal, seems like a dumb design for a pressure hose. Also is there a certain trick to doing this hose? He also insists on using PS fluid instead of the ATF it calls for. Could this cause a problem with the seal?
Edit: Also the truck has been lifted on 35s since 16k miles and its now roughly at 170k. He tows with it as it is his work truck. But the truck is well taken care of.
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I bought a 99 f250 super duty with v-10. Ran great then I decided to hose off engine compartment. No pressure washer just running water trying to get all the dirt off now the engine sounds like its missing. Could I have a coil pack that got wet or is something else wrong.
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I'm trying to troubleshoot a leak on my 08' F250 with a 6.4 powerstroke. It's been dripping coolant when cold pretty aggressively. Once the truck heats up, the coolant leak seems to mostly go away.
Here's a picture of the drip, it's marked by a dart, so you can see the location from the top (second pic). The radiator house connection around the engine seems dry.
Pic from Top ....
What's hidden here that could be causing the leak?
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Where this small leak coming from. Under my radiator hose. Took a pic of the leak.
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I was washing my 2004 F-250 today and I looked down by the front passenger wheel well and I noticed a small chuck missing from the bottom of the frame. The other side in the same spot doesn't have it and at the spot in question, I noticed some sort of crack had been welded before. I never had any of that done to the truck. What about getting it fixed? get it fixed right away or keep an eye out for cracks. so far its just that hole and what looks like a welded crack above. everything else seems fine. I know a repair would be inexpensive and easy just to weld a steel or titanium plate on the spot.
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I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
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I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
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The truck has 64k miles and has developed a small leak on the engine side of the radiator with no apparent damage. There is no variation on the pressure test and the dealer was able to find the very small leak with dye in the system. It has lowered by about 3/4 of a gallon of coolant over the last couple of months. There are no visible signs of a leak but you smell the coolant when you stop the truck.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I got my 1999 f250 super duty v10 about a month ago. It had 200,700 some miles on it. It's now at 201,865. My issue is when I turn on my heater I smell coolant. It's kinda strong. No leaks that I can see. Not in the ground or in the cab or from what I can see of the heater core. It only smells when the heat is on, no smell on the cold setting. It sat for months before I bought it from a dealership. What it could be? Ok now it sounds like I have the ticking death sound. The one people have said happens when spark plugs are about to fail. So I guess new plugs are in order.
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4 ...
I have a rattling noise coming from the front suspension (both sides) when going over small bumps. Most people point to ball joints, but I find my case odd because I just replaced
Upper/Lower ball joints
Track bar
Tie rod ends
Shocks
Front U joints
Drag link
I did not touch the leaf springs or the sway bar, except to grease the links, which otherwise looked good.
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When I cold start my 99 F250 7.3L PowerStroke extended cab long bed manual, I get diesel smell in & out of the cab. What is causing it?
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2003 6L 250 SD. Always smells of exhaust on the cabin. If there is snow it gets much worse.
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
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