Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2007 F250 - Misfire While In OD And Going Up A Small Hill With Light Acceleration Around 45 To 55 Mph
Jan 11, 2015
I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
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06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
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Have a 2007 F250 6.0 diesel with the standard issues including misfire at highway speed. Assume the bulletproof kit also cures the stiction problem? in reviewing the threads and looking at the vendors, references are made to fixing the oil cooler issue, egr issue, etc., but no one addresses stiction issue directly.
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OK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
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I just went from 3.73 to 4.30 gears on my 2007 f250 6.0. It has the standard Sterling 10.5 rear and Dana 60 front. My mechanic friend who did the swap said the ABS light came on during his test drive but the truck drove fine. I was of the understanding that the truck would not need to be recalibrated for proper speedometer and transmission function, but what about the ABS?
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Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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I was washing my 2004 F-250 today and I looked down by the front passenger wheel well and I noticed a small chuck missing from the bottom of the frame. The other side in the same spot doesn't have it and at the spot in question, I noticed some sort of crack had been welded before. I never had any of that done to the truck. What about getting it fixed? get it fixed right away or keep an eye out for cracks. so far its just that hole and what looks like a welded crack above. everything else seems fine. I know a repair would be inexpensive and easy just to weld a steel or titanium plate on the spot.
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2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
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2007 f250 4x4 shift on fly will not work. switch to 4x4 high light will not illuminate and it will not go into 4x4. i have tried in park, in neutral, rolling are stopped. both lights work when you turn ignition key to on.
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The truck has 64k miles and has developed a small leak on the engine side of the radiator with no apparent damage. There is no variation on the pressure test and the dealer was able to find the very small leak with dye in the system. It has lowered by about 3/4 of a gallon of coolant over the last couple of months. There are no visible signs of a leak but you smell the coolant when you stop the truck.
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Checking out my 2007 gasser this weekend an found that my third brake light does not work....no power to the socket. The cargo lights on either side of it in the same assembly work fine so I believe the ground to be intact. My question is does this light have it's own fuse? if not where should I start looking for the solution to my problem?
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I have a 1999 f250 v10 auto. It has 3 miss fires thats im stumped with .. Ive replaced all spark plugs, all coils , I've had injectors out and were cleaned and it still miss fires. I can disconnect the coil and injector on the cylinders and the motor runs the same. Ive swapped the coils and injectors around to make sure it wasn't them. What else could it be? Frustrated I've had the truck for 2 years and haven't figured them out. Ive had them go away for at most a day. Also the truck has a shake at 80 kmh not sure if its from the miss...
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
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I was running tire chains on my front end and broke the wires going to the wheel (I know ,not smart) . Immediately Service AdvanceTrac, Hill Descent fault, ABS light came on. I took it in to a shop and they repaired the wires but lights are still on and won't clear. Buttons on the dash wont work either. Messed up the sensors maybe?
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I have a 2007 King Ranch F250 that had 18" rims on it. I just put a new set of 2008 KR 20" tires & rims on my truck and now the ABS light is on. Does increasing the tire/rim size mess with the ABS? If so how can I remedy this?
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How to diagnose misfire with no CEL? 2001 F250 5.4. What could cause it?
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2002 F-250 7.3 4x4 ...
I have a rattling noise coming from the front suspension (both sides) when going over small bumps. Most people point to ball joints, but I find my case odd because I just replaced
Upper/Lower ball joints
Track bar
Tie rod ends
Shocks
Front U joints
Drag link
I did not touch the leaf springs or the sway bar, except to grease the links, which otherwise looked good.
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2016 F250SD XLT CC 4X4...13K miles... Now with it being blazing hot in Florida I have been running windows up and a/c on. Beginning to notice the truck is not accelerating the same with the a/c on as it does with the a/c off. It seems like it sluggish till it gets to a certain RPMs then you feel it kick in and somewhat take off. Is this normal?
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My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
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OK, not sure where to start so here goes. I have an 02' f-250 with the v-10. I just had some minor front end body work done and when I got it back I noticed that it just didn't feel right while driving. When I start it, I notice a small misfire while I stand next to the exhaust outlet. Nothing too bad, still runs great. Shortly thereafter I started noticing a more habitual missing while driving. Roughly between 30-40 mph and around 12-1500 rpm the truck feel like the driveline is about to pickle fork the truck. If I let off the gas or step on it, the vibration goes away. And very intermittent.
It will only do it when the truck is warmed up. If I only drive about a mile, it won't do it, yet if I turn around and head back, there it is! Now the weird part. I for reasons I won't get into, I left my ignition on and drained the battery. I just replaced it and for the last 2 days nothing. Nt even a misfire. Now today here it is again. I have read all over the forums for this exact problem and cannot find my exact problem. I have replaced the plugs with Autolites and cleaned the coils as well as the boots and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the top of the plug. The boots are cleaned and not a sign of cracking or wear.
I replaced the PCV valve and nothing. All the plugs looked exactly the same. Light chocolate in color. Not one looked different than the other. I took them out again last week to verify the plugs weren't bad and the new ones all looked the same as well. I cleaned the MAF sensor also. Just cannot figure out what could be doing this all of the sudden. I don't see where anything wasn't plugged back together when it was being worked on and why would a new battery make it go away for a short time? Oh, and lastly, I have a superchips programmer that came with the truck and there are no codes showing and my check engine light has never came on yet.
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