Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Dome Light Doesn't Go Off When Close The Door


May 25, 2016

I just purchased a 2006 E-350 15 passenger van. ~85000 miles. As soon as any door (except the very back door) opens, the dome light comes on, as expected. However, when you close the door, the light doesn't go off. There are two ways I've found to make the light go off:

1. Reach a speed of 10mph
2. Wait several minutes (i haven't timed it yet, maybe 10 min?) without opening a door

I've read that the keyless entry remote can control this, but this van isn't equipped with keyless entry. There must be some factory setting that can be adjusted. Also, any thoughts on adding an aux jack to the stock AM/FM/CD stereo? Maybe I should bite the bullet and install an after-market deck?

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The new bulb didn't fix the problem. I recall that when I noticed the door bell didn't ding-ding anymore was about the time(when it got dark), that I noticed the dome light was out also.

What I may check? The fuses all work, the interior dome relay switch works and I see nothing else in the owners manual to look for as far as dome lighting and door bell chime.

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1.My rear dome lights work when manually turned on. They do not come on when the door is opened. However, the front dome lights do.

2.The lights on my side mirrors turn blink when using the turn signal, and when hitting the lock/unlock/remote start buttons. They do not work when driving around with my head lights on.

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Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Dome Light Not Working - Tested Almost All Components?

I can't find out why my dome light doesn't work. I threw a bulb at it first, and then a tester but found no voltage with the door open or the dome lights dimmer roller clicked over to "interior lights on". I do get a door chime with the door open, so seemingly the door switch is working. Fuses 4 and 14 are good. They seem to be the related fuses.

Here's what I've checked.

1.. Fuses are all good.
2.. Removed and tested the relay. It tested properly, closing the large contacts when voltage is applied across the two coil terminals.
3.. 12V is present at the large left contact in the relay plug.
4.. I applied voltage to the relay output pin (the large contact next to ^^) in the fuse panel and get the dome/cargo lights to illuminate, so I know the wiring from the relay to the lights is good.
5.. The two smaller relay pins upper and lower look to be the relay coil/turn on contacts. (The middle contact is not used) There is 12v on one of them and it seems the other should be grounded with a door open or when the dash roller is rolled past the detent. I'm not getting this grounding signal.
6.. I do get a warning chime if I open the door while headlights are on etc, so it looks like the door switches are working.

Just got back in from some more testing... Here's a breakdown of how the relay works:

- Relay socket we're looking at is the upper socket.
- High amp 12V power is on the left large vertical contact. The relay's function is to port this voltage to the middle large vertical contact. (the load contact)
- The middle vertical contact (load contact) goes to the dome light and cargo lights.
- The upper horizontal contact is one end of the relay throw coil. This one has 12V present when probed.
- The middle horizontal contact is not used. (actually it's an empty socket with no female terminal behind it.)
- The lower horizontal contact needs ground applied to it to get the throw coil to close the high amp contacts.

With the relay plugged in, I was able to sneak a thin probe to the lower horizontal contact and ground it. The relay activated and the lights came on. So, for some reason I'm not getting the grounding signal to the relay with the dome light rocker or the doors open even though I get the door chime.

Apparently there is something between the door switches and the dome light/roller switch and the relay? Is this the GEM module? If so, I don't see the reason for anything between the switches and the relay? It should be a pretty basic relay circuit?

Is this something (GEM?) programmable, or testable? I don't want to throw parts at it. Looking for a wiring diagram, a diagnostic flow chart or a pin out?

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The 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but there's a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.

Can I change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? I want there to be NO delay, if possible. If not, I may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.

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