So I had the cv joints and boots replaced last year. When I turn at low speeds I get a clicking and some road noise, when I turn at higher speeds I get a lot of road noise. I feel like its a combination of strut mounts and wheel bearings?
View 2 RepliesRecently purchased an '05 GLI (my second mk4) and it has the stock RCs and Eagle F1 tires. They are good on tread, wear pattern, and pressure, but seem to be making an awful lot of road noise, especially at lower speeds and decelerating to around 20 mph. as I read in one post "it sounds like a semi-truck". When I test drove the car it was still in winter mode and there were no noises or pull and so I do not suspect any mechanical issues.
It does not result in any real vibration that you can see in the wheel, but you feel the buzzing. the steering is straight and true as well with no pulling left or right. IT'S JUST LOUD!! lifted the front end and shook the front wheels. the bearings seem nice and tight with no wiggle. I was going to remove the tires and rotate, or put on the spare to see for a diff, but the BBS tool for the center caps is a POS and I couldn't get them off. So ultimately I'm looking for some vortex advice on this noise, its causes, remedies, and and anything else I should be looking for.
I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
I have a 2010 LS460 AWD with 42k miles and notice when I am making a medium to wide angle turn at parking lot speeds the front wheels make an intermittent metallic clicking/ticking noise that can be clearly heard when the windows are down and stereo is off. The noise can be heard when turning in either direction, driving forward or in reverse, and both accelerating and slowing down. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary. Dealer suspects noise is due to dry contact areas between pads, calipers, and anti rattle springs and wants to perform a brake service for $330 before they're willing to investigate further (car still under warranty till end of the year). If noise is brake-related shouldn't it only occur when I'm applying the brakes? What should I do?
View 7 RepliesI started noticing the noise about a week ago, When i seem to let of the gas or even once in a wail push on the gas Hear a "CLICK" noise, this is not when pressing the brakes at all only when letting off pedal?
I am thinking it could be transmission, but have read it could be a few thing, From the brake pads to CV joint to trow out bearing, Axles, Lightened flywheel, Motor mounts, etc. But i am unsure where to start, Its and O2M 6spd tranny in my 20th, with lsd installed, lightened flywheel, VFmotormounts...
My car started making the clicking blinker noise out of nowhere when just driving regularly. I went outside the car to see if the blinkers were in fact going off but they weren't. What the cause of this is and how to get it to stop?
View 12 RepliesI've just started noticing a "clicking/ grinding/ creaking" when I turn my wheel. It makes the noise if I'm parked, or driving slowly. I can feel it in the steering wheel, and hear it in the cabin, but can't hear anything when I'm under the car.
It sounds like 'two pieces of rubber binding on each other', is the best I can describe it. I THINK its coming from the driver's side. I've considered: strut mounts shifting, CV joints, something in the steering column, Tie rods, power steering pump...
Everything is tight on the wheel when I try to move it by hand (on jacks), and no rips/ tears in any boots.
When driving my car, my oem shifter makes a clicking noise going into gear. is there a way to get it to stop, other than getting a short throw?
Looking for 2004 gli all weather floor mats? or ones that would fit?
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
Recently picked up a 05 GLI with the bbs wheels. Last night i was driving into my parking garage and noticed a clicking noise comming from the back left wheel.
I lifted the car on that side and spun the wheel but it didn't make the noise. But once i set it back down and rolled the car the click came back. So i'm guessing it has something to do with pressure being applied to the wheel.
2010 chevrolet HHR clunking from front suspension, rough road, slow speeds. Is this typical of worn sway bar bushings or something more expensive?
View 1 RepliesI just had a 2008 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner car and it made me realize how rough our GLI's ride over bumps on the road. This thing rode like a cadillac and it was a really pleasant change here in new york city where the roads are terrible.
View 7 RepliesAfter a full complete stop or slow down to almost complete stop upon acceleration from that stop or slow down my dash brake light blinks and yells at me for the standard amount of time then goes away. It only does it upon acceleration its weird its almost instantaneous with me pressing the gas pedal. No squealing noise or anything else is coming from the rotors and everything feels normal its just starting to get annoying as hell.
About 6 months ago I replaced my pads and rotors with the drilled and slotted kit performance-cafe offers and had it professionally installed because, I'm lazy and it would have take me years to do it. This problem only started recently so I'm pretty sure its something else or something went bad. What I should check or have specifically looked at if I take it in?
I have had my 20th for about a month now and I feel like first gear is so slow. I usually shift around 3,000 rpms. I was wondering if 1st if just slow in these cars or if there's something wrong?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
Got an 04 GLI and I have the infamous hazard clicking sound. I replaced the hazard and it's still clicking, even worse than before. I'm going to spray some contact cleaner on the plug to see if that might fix it.
View 2 RepliesAt 100k I took my 2004 CR-V in for belated 90k maintenance. Besides the routine stuff, they had to replace the ball joints. They also rotated and balanced the tires, which are about 15k miles old.
Took the car home, and immediately noticed a loud clicking in the right wheel when I turned it hard at slow speeds, parallel parking, etc. Took it back to the shop and was informed that it was a spindle problem. Mechanics said this was merely a coincidence, not a result of their recent work, but nicely charged me only for parts not labor. They had to replace the ABS sensor in the course of this work.
Next day, had to take a long weekend trip, about 500 miles there and back. Half-way through, noticed two things: groaning/clicking noise in brakes at slow speeds, and a slight but detectable vibration through the gas pedal when traveling 30-50MPH. Also a faint "wobble" sound at this speed as though coming from front right tire.
Took it back to the shop: was told that brake rotors were rusted and this was responsible for groaning/clicking--something to do with warping due to the rust + car getting warm from long drive. They lubed up the rotors real good and there is no more sound, though I've not driven it a long distance yet.
BUT, faint vibration in gas pedal and wobble noise at 30-50 persists. Mechanic said that when they rotated the tires, they noted that they had gone "out of round," but thought balancing might bring them back in round. Is it possible that the sound & vibration are just from the tires trying to find their level? Is this the kind of thing where I'm all of a sudden looking at 4 new tires (seems premature)? Any other front-end possibilities? Should I take it to a tire shop? I have found my mechanics pretty good over the past couple of years, but this recent series of visits has made me slightly leery...
Well I've been noticing that when I'm slowing down from higher speeds (50 mph or so) my steering wheel is shimmying a bit. Also I just started to hear my front passenger brake squeal a little. Well when I went to visually check the brakes, the pads seem VERY thick! Is it normal for them to start to go bad even with such thick pads? They are like 1cm thick. Also the rotors did seem used for sure, maybe 1mm worn down or so from the outer lip which is raised (I hope you understand what I mean), but they weren't scoured or anything. I suppose they could still be warped? I figured with such big brakes I wouldn't run into that problem. The car has 70k on it and the pads have been replaced once and rotors turned at 25k by the previous owner.
View 6 RepliesI've got a clicking in my car right now, it's not a constant noise, but only after I've been driving awhile without using my brakes. Slowly gets louder and louder. Goes away completely when I put my brakes on for a second and starts again when I let off of the brakes. Its speed related, so its quicker when I'm going faster.
View 1 RepliesI hear a a series of "clunks" rather than "rattles" (not high pitched) when driving slow over bumpy roads. The noise is coming from the rear only. I think it is more evident in cold temperatures, but I'm not sure. I'll find out if it ever gets above freezing again in MN. Strut mounts? If so, DIY project?
View 6 RepliesI have a 04 v6 model , in the last couple of months when I am on the interstate at about 75-80 mph. I get a very loud vibrating noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. The dealer thinks the drive shaft has some play in it.
View 6 Replies