Honda - Cr-v :: Loud Clicking In Right Wheel When Turned Hard At Slow Speeds / Parallel Parking
May 15, 2012
At 100k I took my 2004 CR-V in for belated 90k maintenance. Besides the routine stuff, they had to replace the ball joints. They also rotated and balanced the tires, which are about 15k miles old.
Took the car home, and immediately noticed a loud clicking in the right wheel when I turned it hard at slow speeds, parallel parking, etc. Took it back to the shop and was informed that it was a spindle problem. Mechanics said this was merely a coincidence, not a result of their recent work, but nicely charged me only for parts not labor. They had to replace the ABS sensor in the course of this work.
Next day, had to take a long weekend trip, about 500 miles there and back. Half-way through, noticed two things: groaning/clicking noise in brakes at slow speeds, and a slight but detectable vibration through the gas pedal when traveling 30-50MPH. Also a faint "wobble" sound at this speed as though coming from front right tire.
Took it back to the shop: was told that brake rotors were rusted and this was responsible for groaning/clicking--something to do with warping due to the rust + car getting warm from long drive. They lubed up the rotors real good and there is no more sound, though I've not driven it a long distance yet.
BUT, faint vibration in gas pedal and wobble noise at 30-50 persists. Mechanic said that when they rotated the tires, they noted that they had gone "out of round," but thought balancing might bring them back in round. Is it possible that the sound & vibration are just from the tires trying to find their level? Is this the kind of thing where I'm all of a sudden looking at 4 new tires (seems premature)? Any other front-end possibilities? Should I take it to a tire shop? I have found my mechanics pretty good over the past couple of years, but this recent series of visits has made me slightly leery...
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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I have a 2004 Honda CR-V, 100k, just did its 90k maintenance (a little late) and also had the ball joints replaced. Brought back from the mechanic and heard clicking sound when turning wheel hard left or hard right, only at low speeds, usually when parallel parking or simply sitting in park, turning wheel back and forth. Right back to the mechanic: they checked it out, re-lubricated everything, drove it, said it was OK. I got it home, still clicking. Safe to drive this weekend? It's back to the shop on Monday.
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I was out and about yesterday running errands and I had to parallel park my car. Well, I got in my spot fine and I was sitting in my car getting some packages ready to be dropped off at the post office. About a minute, after I parked, I saw someone attempting to park in the spot in front of me and she couldn't do it. She attempted it 5 times, all while I'm sitting in my car, worried that she's going to hit my car.
So on what was her last attempt, she backed up dangerously close to my car causing me to reverse further, forgetting that there was a high curb next to me. I gave it a little too much gas and I scratched the crap (4 inch x 1 inch) out of my bumper/side. How to fix this without breaking the bank unnecessarily? .
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My truck is a 2012 145'' scab Ecoboost. It doesn't have a level or any other suspension mods. I noticed a knocking sound while parallel parking this morning. It occurs while steering quickly turning the wheel 1/4-1/2 a rotation in forward and reverse . It is easily felt through the wheel and it makes a quiet sound. I have a crummy video I will attach below. You can hear the sound when the camera is in the cab. It seems like either balljoints or tie rod ends maybe?. I have an oil change in 1000 miles at my dealer so the timing is pretty good to bring it in.
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So I had the cv joints and boots replaced last year. When I turn at low speeds I get a clicking and some road noise, when I turn at higher speeds I get a lot of road noise. I feel like its a combination of strut mounts and wheel bearings?
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My 2009 CTS Caddy with a 3.6L, 156,612K miles, AWD has been steering hard for a few weeks. Its very difficult to to steer at low speeds, like parking. At highway speeds its ok. Its not making any noise and the fluid level is where it should be. It is hard to steer at low speeds if the cars is hot and when its cold after just starting car. My question is, how to I determine if its the pump or rack or something connected with the speed sensative steering without going to the dealer.
I was at the dealer for routine maintenance Friday and he didn't have time to look at it but said a rack and a pump, he didn't even mention if there could be something wrong with the speed sensitive doohickey. Which leads to my second question, can my normal mechanic, who I believe to be quite capable, be trusted to replace the pump or rack or is this a job that the dealer would be more suited doing. If can bring it to my mechanic I can always buy the parts myself and he can install it. Thats why I would like to figure out exactly which part is bad before I go to him.
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I have a 2010 LS460 AWD with 42k miles and notice when I am making a medium to wide angle turn at parking lot speeds the front wheels make an intermittent metallic clicking/ticking noise that can be clearly heard when the windows are down and stereo is off. The noise can be heard when turning in either direction, driving forward or in reverse, and both accelerating and slowing down. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary. Dealer suspects noise is due to dry contact areas between pads, calipers, and anti rattle springs and wants to perform a brake service for $330 before they're willing to investigate further (car still under warranty till end of the year). If noise is brake-related shouldn't it only occur when I'm applying the brakes? What should I do?
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I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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I Have a 2002 Trailblazer and when i turn on the rear A/C there is a loud clicking sound coming from the back of the truck. It is on the passenger side up by the interior light in the third row. If i turn off the Rear A/C or turn the knob and have both the overhead and the feet blow out it does not click.
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I have a 2002 Passat GLS and when I tried to start my car this morning, it would not start. When I turn on the ignition, the car gives off a loud clicking sound. The interior and exterior light works, the panel light works, and the radio works as well. What might be the problem?
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My car started whining a couple of months ago. It is intermittent, at slow speeds or totally stopped. It's a high-pitched whine that sounds like a small dog yelp. I can't make it happen and can't discern a pattern as to when it happens except that if it occurs once one day, I'm likely to hear it a few more times that day. It sounds like it is coming from the right hand side, perhaps from underneath the car. I've taken it in to the dealer who checked it over. Of course it didn't make the noise for the mechanic. The dealership said they have heard this complaint one other time by an owner of a high mileage CRV. They are not able to determine the cause. My car is 2002 and has 172,000+ miles.
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Yesterday I went out for a few errands, but noticed the car was a little sluggish when starting. So, when I got home, after I turned off the ignition, I tried to start the car again. Just clicking and then nothing. Did that a few times and then just gave up. This morning I decided to try again. At first, just clicking, but then I started to pump the gas pedal and it started fine. I want to have it checked, but what to expect at the repair shop.
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This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
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2007 camry le with 85k miles, there is a bad vibration in the front end, the steering wheel rocks, and when you turn right or left at slow speeds there is one knock, not a clicking, just one knock, also noticed the front driver side wheel has heavy wear on the outside corner of the tire, cv joint, bearings...
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When driving at slow speeds and when I go over a bump in the road, I'll hear something like the metal part of the wheel scraping something as its turning. Only comes from the front drivers side wheel. It's audible enough that people usually turn to look when I'm in a parking lot.
Took it to the dealer, they 'test drove' it. Said they couldn't hear anything. Then said that whatever I'm hearing is 'normal suspension noise'. So after leaving it a full day at the dealer, nothing has changed. Since when is ANY suspension noise normal? But I don't think its the suspension. What to do? Take it back? Take it to another dealer?
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I have a 2003 Jetta Wagon with 49000 miles on it. I noticed that when turning at slow speeds (like taking turns in a parking lot) I hear a klunk coming from the area of the left front wheel, and I think I feel it through the steering wheel. Yesterday I was going around a hairpin turn at a shopping mall and heard two clunks. Driving straight it doesn't happen.
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During the past couple of months, I've noticed a moaning when I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds, mainly while driving in parking lots. When I turn the A/C off, the sound disappears. Is my compressor on its way out? The dealer replaced a leaky condenser in 2011. My fear is that they didn't replace it properly with adding oil back to the system.
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2011 Hyundai sonata. My issues is that there seems to be a snapping/brushing noise when turn my wheel either left or right within under 5 MPH. Some people at work stated it could be the CV bolt? Not sure if that is correct, or something else. I am 117K miles, never have replaced anything suspension related.
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I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
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