Golf/GTI VII :: Trunk Won't Open While Car Is Locked From A Normal Standing Position


Jan 2, 2015

I can't get the trunk to open while the car is locked from a normal standing position. I used to be able to, but now I have to rub up against my car to open it. gotta hump the back of my gti to open trunk... its been 3 months. is the key already dead?

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Key wont unlock the trunk - first time this problem has appeared, interior latch does not open trunk either/ Squirt of WD40 into lock does not work.

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I'm having some trouble opening the trunk of the Tiguan and I'm wondering if this is a known or common problem. When I hit the open button on the remote control, sometimes the trunk door doesn't fully un-hitche and it remains locked. I can completely close the door again and try again and it still won't open.

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I sent my car out for a new clutch and timing chains cause I did not have the time to do my self. So when I got it back I try and get into the trunk and the key will not turn the lock so then I tried to do it with the switch and you could here it unlock but again still would not open.

Also I called the mechanic and he claims he never heard this b4 cause the key should always be able to turn.

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I just noticed that even when switching the dome light off, the trunk light never shuts off with the hatch open.

I assume there is no way to turn it off other than taking out the bulb?

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My latch wont open at all! When i first bought the car the trunk would open but Im not sure what had happened to it. The key doesn't work at all but every time I press the button on my key too open it or from the button on the floor it makes the noise that it unlocked but its still shut??!!?! Maybe I thought it was the fuse but I had changed fuse 15 still nothing any body experienced this before seems too be a common problem. Should I just go through the front and take the panels off for the hatch and diagnose whats wrong with it?

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Golf V R32 :: Internal Flap Is Stuck In Open Position?

I dyno'd my car a couple of weeks ago and we found that the torque curve was a trough instead of a bump compared to stock - down about 10. HP was down maybe 5 (I don't have the printout in front of me). Magically, at 4100 rpm, it crossed over the stock curve and then was + 10-15 HP above stock, as you would expect from tune, intake, and exhaust. So it seemed that the power port vacuum valve was not activating. We did not have time to diagnose, so I went home and T-d in a vacuum gauge under the actuator.

From the info. I have been able to find, the flap in the manifold closes at 900 so that just the long runner torque pipes are open to the valves. And then it opens to the tuned closed port at 4100 rpm. On a cold start, there is a brief period when vacuum appears on the gauge, then it goes away and does not come back regardless of the engine revs. So, given the low torque curve below 4100, I am wondering if for some reason the internal flap is stuck in the open position.

What else I should be looking at? For instance, at idle, the flap should be open. Does this mean that the little white plastic lever is pulled down, or pushed up? If the valve is active, there should be vacuum under the actuator, right? Any way to tell if the solenoid is getting a signal from the ECU to activate it?

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I removed the actuator from the trunk and tested it using a different power supply. It seems to work fine when I apply 12v through the leads. I also connected my multimeter to the connector that plugs into the actuator (the connector is hooked up to the wires coming from the front of the car). When I push the trunk button on my key, it spikes to 11v, then drops back to 0. To me, this indicates that there is no flaw in the wiring.

I even re-soldered the wires where it tends to kink on the drivers side in the trunk (It looks like they have been previously DIYed so I thought something may have come loose there), but that doesn't seem to have worked. As far as I can tell, the wires seem to be working fine by testing through the multimeter, and the actuator seems to be fine by testing from an alternate supply.

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This morning I opened my center console armrest to tuck the iPod cord back in, when I went to lower the armrest it only dropped about 1/5th the total amount it would need to close. I fooled with it for long enough to know If I continue to apply more pressure something is going to break. The movement it has is smooth until the point it abruptly stops. I checked the owners manual with no luck, called the dealer service center which came up empty handed as well.

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My car got broken into 2002 VR6 4 motion.

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Now we were able to use one of those door airbag tools to fish a wire in and get the driver door open by pulling on the door handle. The door unlock switch did nothing when pressed. Once I got the door open I thought all I had to do was press the trunk release button, but it was not popping the trunk as it always did before.

I went into the backseat to try and pull the seats down, but cannot find anyway to fold down the back seats. My friend said you can only release the latch from inside the trunk, but there has to be a way. I only have the one key and I'm sure it will cost an arm and a leg to get a new one made. How to get those back seats down?

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So today I was standing still in traffic and the ESP and ABS lights came up all of the sudden.. I got these codes.. What could it be?

The third code is the same as the second one....

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