Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Can't Lock Up The Tires After Brake Replacement
Jul 6, 2014
Driving a 2003 GTI
My girlfriends dad and I just recently replaced my pads,rotors, and bled the brakes. He is a journeyman mechanic however he does not see a lot of cars, he mostly works on trains.
Short version is after this replacement I am able to press the peddle to the floor and not lockup or engage the ABS. Before with the old worn brakes this would be no problem to do. We tried bleeding a little more off the brakes to see if there was some air. no bubbles came out. he insists there's lots of brake power. I just find it odd that i can press the pedal to the floor board and not lock up the tires, or feel like i have any real emergency stopping power.
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I need to replace my parking brake, it is definitely on its way out.
What I wanted to know is, do I need a cable for each side or is there only one cable?
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I have gone back and forth to different dealers and have gotten many different responses. The first response I got was it was pulling to the right because of the crowning of the road. Then they told me I needed two new tires. After getting them replaced the car is still pulling to the right. I went to a different dealership thinking they would be able to get it straightened out. Before I took it over there I called VWoA and they said they would cover the cost of the alignment. After the car was checked by this new dealership they came to the conclusion that it was torque steer. I advised them that it veers to the right even if the car is in neutral and rolling in the middle lane of the highway.
I may be contacting a lawyer for a lemon law claim. VWoA says I do not have a claim because a problem was never found, though I do have paperwork stating that the issue was verified by a technician at a VW dealership. I also went and had it put on an alignment machine at Sears and I have the papers that show the car is not aligned properly. But they continue to say that there is nothing wrong with the car.
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How strong is the handbrake? Can it lock up the rear tires while driving? Pulled pretty hard but no go
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I'm trying to figure out why I am having problems with my read tires wearing fast. I knew my car was out of alignment and took it to a shop and they told me I have -1.05 negative toe and bad camber.
Can some shims fix my issue or would I be better with a whole new rear beam. As far as I know the car has never been lowered, but how would I be able to tell?
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My car has 130k miles and has recently developed a worrying noise. It makes an extra whirring sound, like another set of gears spinning, but I don't think I would describe it as a grinding noise. I live in VT and I thought maybe it was my (studless) snow tires making more noise in the warm weather because I noticed it about a month and a half ago when it warmed up. Now that I have my all season tires on, it's still making the noise. The tire guys didn't notice anything wrong when the swap happened (but they only do tires there and I didn't ask them to look for anything).
As far as I can tell it is dependent on wheel speed, not engine speed. It starts at about 20-25mph and gets louder the faster I go. At about 65 the normal road noise is louder than the new noise. If I turn the wheel to the right to any degree the noise goes away. I can't tell if it is completely gone, but it seems like it is. There is no real change if I turn the wheel to the left, though it might get slightly worse. When the noise is going I can feel a vibration in the floorboard that matches the sound. The sound seems like it is coming from in front of me, but I can't really tell if it is left, right, or center. As far as I can tell that is the only new noise, no clicking/griding when I turn the wheel etc.
I'm taking it in for normal 130k maintenance in a week....
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I am having a problem with one door lock on my Golf. The problem is with the left rear door. There are no issues unlocking it using either the fob or the driver door button. It also locks using the driver door. However, it does not lock using the fob.
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Having a little issue w/ the wife's hatch lock mechanism as seen in the video below. The black lock arm isn't the culprit as in some other videos I've seen.
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I tightened the bolt behind the black cap, however, I got a piece in return. Does this have to do with the lock cylinder sliding out on its own?
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For 6 months of ownership, the rear hatch apparently has never been locked. I can lock all other 4 doors, expect the latch apparently won't lock by itself. and I can't physically lock it with the key as it looks like the lock is seized. What are my options? Do I have to get a used rear hatch or is there someway of locking it from the inside?
Looking at some videos online, it looks to be that the actuator motor in the trunk could be the possible culprit?
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How hard is it to replace an oil pump on a 1.8T?
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I just purchased a used 01 Jetta GLS. It came with only 1 key and no fob. My key fits the door and ignition but does not seem to fit the trunk or the back seat lock that gives better access to the trunk. The fuel door switch works but the trunk release switch does not (no sound, haven't checked wires yet).
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I put a new door lock actuator in my drivers door today. The key locks the door just fine but when I return it to center it unlocks the door. If I take the key out and just tap the key cylinder it unlocks again. Is there any adjustment I haven't found yet to the key cylinder or actuator?
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I just replaced my door latch module (drivers side) on my 2002 gti 1.8t. Now I can't unlock or lock my doors using the key fob or the door controls inside. I'm stuck....
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I just finished the install of a stop tech BBK on my Jsw and it seems I have two problems:
1) brake pad signal comes on when I start my car and
2) car wont lock (though it is running fine).
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I am not very familiar with transmissions and clutches, hence I just purchased a used transmission for my jetta 1.8t, i was told that i might as well do the clutch while the transmission is getting done. I just purchased the car two years ago and the guy said that he put a vr6 clutch in. so my question is, what exactly will i need to get for both the transmission and clutch replacement. Like I mentioned, I only have bought the transmission so far.
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I removed the old muffler but it was severed at the pipe so there was no issue getting it over the rear cross member. I dropped the center brace to remove the resonator from cat back.
My question is, is it possible to install a new OEM rear muffler without a lift? I have stands but I do not know of I can get it high enough, or if I even need to get it that high? Not sure the bend of the pipe before it meets the resonator.
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I just replaced the alternator on my car last week, and thought the electrical bugs were gone. Today, I tried to replace the two rear dome lights with LED bulbs. I removed the original bulb, put the new one in and noticed that it did not work...so I put the old one back in and noticed it was no longer working either (everything was fine before I took the old one out).
I then tried to turn on the dome/map lights by the rear view mirror, and those won't come on anymore either. I then tried to close the door and lock it with my key remote, but it also no longer functions. Even if I "manually" lock the doors from the inside (via the lock button on the door panel OR actually pressing the lock down into its hole) they just pop back up and won't lock. Obviously I do not want to leave my car like this as someone can now open it and get in... Does this problem sound like a blown fuse? If it doesn't sound like a blown fuse, what else could it be?
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I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
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I am having issues with the door lock module.
I cannot open it with the remote or manually with the key. So i took the whole door apart and took out the actuator module thing and pulled it apart and checked all switches and solder joints and fixed them all and put back together to test and it still doesn't work. It doesn't seem like there is any power going to the module. I just plugged in the connector into the module and tried to test it and nothing.
I activate the micro switch for the door and the interior lights don't go on or off. They are off. Also when i put the key in ignition there is no noise and turning headlights on there is no noise. The last time i was working on the car was when everything was working and that was last Saturday. I opened the hood and shut the door and it locked itself but when i shut the hood the alarm went off and was a solid noise not a chirp or pulsation alarm noise. So i hit the unlock button on my remote and that fixed it.
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So i was installing a led light in the trunk of my car to replace the old halogens an when it came out a spark happened and now i am unable to use my key fob or roll up the windows, lock the car, or get in the trunk. Also already tried to reset both FOBs but they are not working.
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