Golf IV R32 :: How To Replace Secondary Radiator Hose
Jun 11, 2014
Realized I was leaking coolant from the front passenger wheel well and bumper area. If I fill up the expansion tank it'll almost empty in about 2 days of sitting. Took to the stealership for a quick diagnostic and they said my Intercooler...(Auxilary Radiator) was leaking at the hose connections and will need to be replaced as well as the hose. I can't find a good DIY on this at all and I'm not sure which hose is connected to the Aux Radiator. So I'm wondering which hose connects to the Aux Radiator? Is there anything else I should replace or look for while I'm at it? Which hoses connect to this Second Radiator?
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yesterday my upper radiator hose connector broke off and I replaced it filled it up with coolant and now the upper radiator hose gets really hot at normal temps while the lower hose is cold maybe and gets warm not hot or anything... I see some steam coming off the radiator but i think its all the coolant that splashed on it yesterday from the hose busting off and flooding it basically. the car does not overheat at idle or driving or anything so I am curious to what it could be
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The inter cooler to throttle body hose and it seems to have coolant all over it.
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Ok so I accidentally broke the hose that connects the secondary air pump to the stock intake box and been looking around for a replacement. I have looked around and searched and searched and the only one I found is this one: [URL] .....
Will this work for a 2004 1.8T? I know it says that its for the 2000-01 but it looks exactly like the one that goes on mine. Haven't checked the dealer to see how much they want for it but it will most likely be an arm and a leg.
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I hit a hunk of concrete on the way to work earlier this year and have a cracked radiator. I am looking to replace it with something better if possible. I searched the threads on here and the results seemed inconclusive. Looking for info regarding actually installion of these radiators in car? If so, how'd it work out?
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2001 12v vr6 here, found my leak, now I need to know what the heck this is! Is this even removable?! It's basically a plastic elbow that connects to the radiator on the driver side, I have a photo. I tried fixing this crack with some glue and tape (It was late and couldn't get any temperature friendly glue), as you can see in the picture, it's covered in electric tape, and the hot coolant burned right through it all.
Another problem I had is my fuse box, burning through my fan fuse, looks something like this, the fuse was burned, but after placing a new fuse (just for contact), the fan worked, so I'm guessing a new fuse box is where to start ?
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Im replacing my PCV valve (CEL) but im not sure if I should replace it or just the breather hose.
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I've noticed that my radiator hose doesn't have any pressure anymore, even after a long drive you can squeeze it nearly together, it is still hot like normal and the heater puts out hot air, the temperature gauge sits between half way between 1/4 and 1/2, would this be the radiator it's self, the thermostat or the water pump that may need replacing, there is no leaks that I can find or see...
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There were some minor coolant leakage from the upper hose radiator so I have it replaced. Took me 2 hours because the thermostat housing hose neck gunk up with white lime.
Everything works fine but the car still suffering from minor coolant lost. Found some water stain over the bypass hose neck so I get it replaced too. Took me another 2 hours to get it fix because of the white gunk buildup. Secured everything including the hose and the clamps. Minor water stain still can be found at the bypass hose neck.
Replacing the radiator hose? Does it takes few days for the new radiator hose to fit 100%?
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So i cant figure out how to remove the radiator side of the upper radiator hose. I pulled out the pin but i cant remove the hose.
Do I just pull it straight out? Or do I twist and pull? I dont want to break the connection.
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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I have 98 passat V6 and the lover radiator hose is leaking at the connector between radiator and the hose. Do I need to change the whole hose or is there maybe an o-ring that should be changed? How hard is to remove the hose? Do I have to go to the dealer?
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Is it difficult to replace the lower radiator hose on a 5.4L? I'm mainly thinking about access to the connection at the water pump.
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I have a 2000 F150 with 5.4 L motor. The last two trips I have had the top radiator hose come off while under heavy load (pulling a long hill) after 5 hours of driving. So far I have flushed the radiator, checked the thermostat, and refilled with G05 Gold and distilled water 60/40 ratio. I do not hear any gurgling in the heater core. Heater seems to work great.
The stock temp gauge shows it right in the middle range between Hot and cold, right before it blows the hose off. I have replaced top and bottom hoses and put new stainless steel clamps at all end except the top, where I am using the OEM clamp that came with the truck. I thought about replacing the top clamp as well but did not want to blow out my radiator, if in fact it is developing high pressure.
Do these clamps get weak with time? Should I use a vacuum attachment on the fill/overflow tank to remove all air before refilling?
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I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
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I smelled antifreeze when walking by my fiances Sonata, so I popped the hood and saw there was a small leak from the upper radiator hose, where it meets the thermostat housing. I adjusted the stock clamp, but the leak was much worse.
I swapped it out for new clamp that you can tighten, and all is well again. But, what I noticed when I had it off was that the metal neck of the housing was really corroded. Only 15,000 on the car, so I was surprised to see that the corrosion on the metal had already built up causing the leak (pushing the hose away from the housing). I scraped and scuffed to get it clean again, but just wanted to give you all the heads up in case you notice a leak in the same area. The antifreeze tested good and is really clean.
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I picked up a used 99 Passat with 79000 miles. I just changed the oil and found the pan pretty well sludged up - typical from what I read on the forum. I noticed the coolant looked pretty diluted - so I drained and filled with 50/50 mix. After starting I felt for the upper and lower hoses heating up and the lower one never did. I guess I should have tested this out before draining and refilling - also typical. Question is - is this a thermostat issue? My Haynes manual says if the top hose becomes hot the thermostat is operational. Heater has plenty of heat, temp gauge stays pegged at 190 degrees top dead center of the gauge.
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I own a Honda Crv 2000. I took the car for an oil change at a local oil change shop. They overfilled the oil. I went to the city and came back, and next day the underside of the car was oily and leaky. The car was dripping oil. I immediately siphoned out 300ml of extra oil from the car. After that the leaking stopped and it does not leak/drip anymore. At the same time I saw coolant dripping from the lower radiator hose (where it meets the radiator). I noticed when the fans come on it start dripping. But as of today the coolant dripping has stopped. I am thinking of changing the hose.
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I did all the flushing, cap, thermostat, 50/50 antifreeze, etc, fixes but when I floor it going up an on ramp on an 85 degree day it will go into limp mode / fail safe mode. Bottom hose?
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this winter i have found that my truck's heater core isn't flowing, meaning i have hot on the upper hose and the lower is luke warm and there is no heat while running down the road. I have changed the t-stat and the heater core and radiator are new as of four years ago. last year i could roast a chicken with the heat. i also have no pressure in the radiator hose at all, engine runs at normal temp, no over heat situation and i don't smell any loss of antifreeze.
1999 f-150 4.6 150k
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1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
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