Prius (Gen 2) :: Cooling Starts And Stops With Frequent Intervals
Apr 4, 2012
When using the AC on my 2004 Prius, in any mode, any temperature, on fresh or recirculate, the cooling starts and stops every 5-10 mins. When the cooling is on, it is nice an cold, but then no matter how hot outside, the cooling stops and I am just getting vent air. After a while, the temp in the car gets way above the set point, and it kicks back on and cools again. This occurs over and over again.
Being as the cooling works well some of the time, I was wondering if it is a controller, not the cooling system itself.
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My T-Mobile MyTouch with Android 1.6 OS paired fine as a phone and mp3 player. The mp3 player is less than perfect however.
1) When playing a track, the sound will stop for 1/2 a second at seemingly random intervals. It seems that it's more like the stream is being paused than the audio is just dropping out. I turned off all the auto-update features in the phone in case it was because the phone was checking for email or something. It still happens.
2) When I take a call, the music stops, the call happens, and when I hang up the music plays out of the phone. I can re-connect the Bluetooth audio manually on the Nav screen Audio option and it's back to the car again.
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Shown on a Corolla, but would work even better on a Prius because of the way the engine starts and stops while driving.
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I stopped at a light yesterday and the day before and the ICE will turn off, then turn on for a second or two, then off, then on for a second or two, etc. it did this for probably 15 seconds until I let my foot off the brake and coasted forward a few feet then stopped again. What the heck is going on. It's done it twice now.
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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When I turn my 2012 off the radio stays on for a few seconds and I get approx 6 beeps. It didnt do this when I first got the car so just wondering whats up.
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2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
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2009 Prius with 115,000 miles. I've had to replace one or other of my headlight bulbs four times in the past six months. This is becoming a real PITA. Is there a known cause (and fix)?
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My 2010 Santa Fe has had a AC problem since one week of ownership - when it is raining and I drive the car more than 10-15 mins - the AC stops blowing cool air. My dealer has seen the problem first hand - but has no solution for it. Last fall they replaced a faulty accuator - wasn't able to test it our since was fall... but doing it again since the warm weather has started.
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When it's really hot out and I'm highway cruising my ac stops cooling for about 5 seconds when I let off my gas to slow down then I feel a small nudge and it's cold again.....
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On my 2010 Prius (~75,000 miles): The whirring electric motor sound that one hears when just entering the vehicle (even before starting the vehicle) seems to be getting more frequent (and maybe louder).
I used to notice it only when getting in the car and before or just after pushing in the start button. But now I notice it driving around the neighborhood, even at moderate speeds. Is this a sign of some impending failure?
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At startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
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I run the A/C all the time in the warm months. When I stop at a read light or my car isn't moving, the a/c stops cooling. I had an issue a few weeks ago where my car started to overheat in a drive-thru because the electric fan wasn't running at all. The electric fan connection had gotten loose and melted. I got that fixed but now when I turn the a/c on the electric fan only comes on when the engine needs cooling. The electric fan should be on anytime the a/c is on to cool the condenser correct? Is there a bypass switch or maybe a fuse that was damaged from my previous problem?
2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS
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1999 Nissan Maxima. My AC works great until I take a trip. About an hour into the trip the AC slowly stops cooling. I turn the fan onto high to unthaw, this works a little but it is still very warm. If I slow down to about 45 going through a town the cooling will improve until I return to highway speed. My mechanic has checked the freon, changed the sensor two times. When it has stopped cooling I have checked under the hood and the AC is still clicked in, as if the AC does not click off when it is cool enough and freezes. My mechanic has come to the conclusion that there may be something in the computer.
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I read in a different vehicle forum that, in vehicles where the A/C condenser is mounted in front of the engine coolant radiator, when the engine coolant temperature reaches some near-overheat limit, the onboard system disengages the A/C compressor clutch so its condenser does not preheat airflow going to the radiator in an attempt to avoid overheating.
Is this the case with the Toyota Highlander (and specifically in a 2008 Hybrid Limited)???
I've recently been experiencing loss of A/C cooling when the center console outside temperature exceeds about 107 and the dashboard coolant temperature gauge is almost midway up towards H, but still closer to C. But once the outside temp reading drops back below 107, and I restart the vehicle, the A/C is once again cool.
Since coolant temperature is likely is impacted by higher outside temperatures, might the coolant temperature sender be failing or simply aged such that it is out of calibration, falsely indicating too high a reading?
How difficult is it to replace the coolant temperature sensor? Where is it located (in case it's just a corroded connection!)?
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I have a 1982 short-box chevy pick-up with a diesel 8 cylinder 6.2L that will start and run for a few seconds and then shuts down. It may restart and do the same thing. It will not keep running after an initial few seconds.
I have a mechanic that operates an automotive repair business in our hamlet and he took it on although not an expert on diesels. He works on it when he gets time and talking to him today he feels it must be an electrical problem shutting things down as fuel is getting from the fuel pump to the injection pump.
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I work in a automotive garage and am having a problem with this truck. It starts then stops instantly, I scanned it and know it is the security feature shutting it down. I have done my homework and found I have to bypass the passkey system by measuring the resistance between the yellow and orange/black wire at the tumbler. I did this and got 33.2, I got a resistor and soldered it in and the vehicle does the same thing.
History on this vehicle 1998 c1500 is it sat with a dead battery for the last year and a half, i don't know if this is relevant. Also i was told all I should do is connect the yellow wire straight to the black wire.
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I have a problem with my 4runner, it ran good when I drove it before I deployed, not I got back and it will not run, it starts for about 30 seconds then dies, sounds like something is killing the fuel, I took the cap off the tank to see if it was clogged, but thats not the problem, it just will not stay running for longer than 30 seconds. Also I realized that the alternator was very hot for the 5-7 times I started it and had it run for 30 seconds? Oh it's a V6 3.0L 5SPD manual 4X4 by the way.
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The thumping starts at as low as 5mph and never stops. There is also vibration that I can feel through the foot well. Tire shop says the tires are cupping. All suspension components were original. So I figured at 150k they need replacement.
Last weekend I went ahead and changed all 4 struts out with KYBs. Of the 4, front passenger side was completely seized, others were sill working. It still has thumping sound and also the vibration although a bit less than before.
So should I change other components - UCAs, LCAs, ball joints? I am assuming tires need to be replaced, but I don't want to replace those only to find out those are shot in a few months because I didn't changed other worn out parts.
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97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
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It is not the brake switch. I can shift the transmission. Put key in ignition and turn to start. Engine starts to fire then stops and can hear starter turning while still holding key in start position. The car did start after many time and got home.
Tried to start again and no go. Warranty is done. I have read something on-line about cam position sensor? Last couple months had strange idle at stop light that went away and this can be also a symptom of the cam sensor.
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