Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Brakes Really Spongy In Reverse Only
Apr 13, 2013
Friday morning I'm backing my 2011 Sonata Limited out of the garage and I always idle out but this time it started backing about 2 paces faster than idle speed. I hit the brakes and the pedal is on the floor..no brakes..I put it Drive and nothing no power. It didn't stop until I backed into the street curb, tires only no damage. When it hit the curb the brake pedal was back and Drive engaged as if nothing ever happened. Dropped it off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything but did open a case with Hyundai. Saturday doing a couple of backing the brakes were really spongy in reverse only. Will have that checked next week.
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Brake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
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I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
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I'm not too familiar with these trucks, but I've been working on my buddies 1999 e350 ford van.
The other day we were going out kayaking, and the brakes locked up, we were able to drive it home, but it was obvious the brakes were holding the truck back. decided to check it out today, found one front and one rear caliper were sticking, the dual piston calipers only had one working, which I believed to be causing the pads to get pressed together crooked, and caused them to "lock up" or get stuck.
anyways, got the new calipers on and no more sticking, so I bled the brakes started in the front and went all the way to the back, did every caliper. brakes feel firm with the vehicle off, but instantly when the van is started, the pedal goes to the floor. it still stops okay, but the pedal feel is not nearly where it should be.
I got all of the air out of the system, but the abs light is on, and has been for a while. I'm wondering if there is something else that needs to be bled in the abs? someone was telling me about bleeding the abs motor?
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2006 Sonata V6. Front brakes only squeal when applying them while in reverse. Happens all the time......cold/warm start, cool/hot weather, dry/humid air. Squeal is extremely loud. I have searched and found similar but nothing exactly like this. Pads and rotors are fairly new and I have removed them and reinstalled and regreased twice. I am using ceramic pads and have never used them before. Is this common with them?
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Just jumped in my 12 sonata. Put in reverse and car started to sputter pretty bad. Put back in park. Turned off and on again. Let it sit for a minute or 2. Now seems to be running better. Should I be worried about this?I do have a appointment with hyundai Saturday to install a tie rod. Will they be able to tell what it was if it doesn't happen again?
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My 89 240 is a project car so I am just fixing everything up as new until it's all done.
Replaced the Brake Booster with a fully reconditioned one, a new master cylinder, full pressure bleed, new pads. Now I have fantastic brakes but they feel super spongy still . As an example, I make an emergency stop to check if they are ok and after stopping just fine , the pedal still wants to go down further. I have checked all the flexible lines for ballooning and they are ok .
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A while ago I had to lock up my brakes to prevent an accident. now my brakes are soft and spongy, going all the way to the floor and still not quite stopping. making abs type noise. also, i can press all the way down while standing still, with the same type noise.
1996 chevrolet astrovan
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So I've got spongy brakes on my 2003 Prius. I've flushed the whole system twice. Replaced the hoses, pads, rotors, shoes, and drums. Still spongy. I'm not sure what to check next. No lights or codes. I'm leaning toward the master cylinder. You can pump the brakes up when they become spongy and they hold solid. If you practically stand on the brake pedal it will slowly bleed down. This tells me the fluid pressure must be escaping somewhere. I don't want to just blindly replace parts.
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After replacing the Front Rotors, calipers, and brake lines on my 2005 F150 Super Crew I have spongy brakes. I have also replaced the master cylinder. I have bled the brakes as well as a reputable repair shop has done the same. We are both at a loss as to what is wrong. The ABS light is on now after the replacement of these parts. This issue did not exist prior to changing these items. This was done to hopefully eliminate brake shudder that I have been experiencing for some time.
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I have a 2011 Sonata. Recently, I have heard a faint knocking sound when I'm in reverse. It doesn't do it all the time. When I took it into the dealer, it would not make the sound while there. What causes that sound?
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I have 2011 Sonata with just over 3500 miles on it. About three weeks ago I was driving down the road going about 45 mph when my sonata jerked like I had hit a pothole. I pulled over and checked it out and saw that I had not hit anything. When I put the car in reverse it jerked, and when I put it in drive the car bucked badly. After that, it had almost no acceleration as if it didn't want to get out of first or second gear. I took it to the dealership and they were able to recreate the problem and called it an "Intermittent Hard Shifting Transmission."
They told me they had to replace the transmission, which they did. After they replaced it they said the car was still hard shifting. So they replaced the transmission again, and again the problem persisted. Yesterday they told me they were ordering a brand new transmission, blaming the problem on the fact that the previous transmissions were re-manufactured.
I'm waiting to hear back after they install this "new" transmission. Maybe the third time's the charm, but this seems ridiculous.
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In cold weather (10-15 deg.) the brakes in my 2009 Santa Fe are very soft/spongy. I had to depress the brake pedal nearly to the floor before it would stop on dry pavement. Once it's warmed up, the brakes seem fine. Pumping them seems to work but they are not back to their normal condition.
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I have a 2000 subaru legacy outback with about 160,000 miles.
The brakes are spongy. The reservoir is full. I took it to my regular mechanic, and he said the lines are good. He also said that if it were the master cylinder, after pumping the brakes up the peddle will sink to the floor, which it is not doing. So he's stumped.
What this would be? I've had several scares when I had to slam the brakes and wasn't sure the car would stop!
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L .... I have 82,000 miles. Bought with 65,000 miles.
Now when I apply brakes at 60 mph or above i get wobbling (Vibration) on my steering wheel these days. Is it the rotors or pads or both or any alignment issues?
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Today while backing into a spot at work (parked on a flat surface) my 2011 Sonata GLS automatic tranny, when I went to shift the car in reverse felt a big jerk and rather loud noise from shifting.... Haven't heard it since.... I think this happened to me once before many months ago... also on a side note why do I hear a almost a crunching noise when I am steering the car in reverse... I just had my car in for a oil change too.. I'm the only driver and owner of the car it has about 42k on the odometer.
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While trying to troubleshoot a suspension noise (knock on potholes and when changing from drive to reverse) I found my outer tie rod end to have alot of play. This is similar on both passenger and driver sides.
Is this normal? I couldn't see any other issues with the other components including the bushings.
Tie rod end noise - YouTube
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This morning, while backing out of my driveway, I lost reverse for about one second. It disengaged, just revved, then engaged on its own. I looked down and the "R" on the indicator next to the shifter was not shaded red. Put it into drive to go up the street and "D" was not shaded blue. I then looked up at the dash and the gear indicator up there was blank. Turned the car off and back on and everything has been fine since. 2011 GLS, 43000 miles.
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About a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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