Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Brakes With Light Pressure Would Go To The Floor After Car Stopped
Nov 16, 2014
I have a 2011 Sonata and am approaching 100,000 KM. I had my car put through a general service and ended up with a new problem (my brakes with light pressure would go to the floor after the car stopped) in an attempt to fix this replaced parts which included new master cylinder, booster pump, ABS module and my BRAKES still go to the floor after my car has stopped. The car does stop when I brake so why would the pedal go to the floor after the car is stopped?
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Me and a friend changed just the front brake pads on my hyundai sonata 2012 limited turbo (about 55$ ceramic Wagner thermo-quiets)about a week ago . This was the first ever brake job done for the car so I assumed the rotors were fine . We made sure it was greased up everywhere it was supposed to (Didn't replace or turn them) since then my front brakes have been squealing only when I lightly apply pressure on the brakes slowing down , and goes away completely when pressed down harder. I realized I should have probably changed or turned my rotors after I already drove with the new pads on the old rotors for about a week so it's probably too late now. I am just wondering whether this noise go away eventually (what I initially figured it would) from the pads perhaps wearing back into the old rotors ? Or am I better off not waiting for this because the noise won't to away and I should just change the pads again along with the rotors!?
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I was running my car today and low tire pressure light jumped on. I checked the tires and they was all good. Turned the car off then tried to turn it on and the remote key fob didn't work so the car wouldn't start. I had to do it manually to start the car. I get no clock, no interior lights. On the dash it says the trunk is open when its not. Every time I restart the car it doesn't remember my dash light settings. I have Shark racing deleted harness installed with fog lights leds and I have HIDS from DDM turning with the relay installed. It did this stuff after I hand washed the car. I don't think water got in the wiring. Did my ECU blown. I just had it at the dealer and they put a new battery in the key fob and they changed the oil.
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When I'm stopped at a red light for a while I notice that my car doesn't blow cold air anymore, there's tons of blowing but feels like its just normal outside air being blown into the cabin even with re circulation on and AC on.
I've tried turning the AC on and off again at the light, and nothing changes...
I also notice sometimes the AC would decide to blow a little stronger, then let off again. Not sure if the problem is RPM related , i.e. IDLE issue or what.
Just wanted to see what fellow i45+ owners had in mind to what could be causing this issue... I've read something about condenser being clogged, and what not, but I have to be sure.
It works again and starts blowing cold air as long as I'm moving, so I guess it's not that big of an issue, but the hot temperatures here in South Florida can surely give you heat strokes in matter of minutes.
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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I am working on a e-150 van, 2005. the brake pedal fades to almost the floor with little pressure on it. I just replaced the master cylinder, bled the entire system, and it STILL fades to the floor. driving, or in park. engine running. 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel abs...
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The problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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I own a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, my grandma owns a 2014 Sonata, and my other grandparents own a 2011 Sonata. On their cars, when their low tire pressure light comes on, the little display inside the RPM gauge shows them which tire is low. My low tire pressure light comes on and works, but for some reason it doesn't indicate which tire is low. It'll tell me which door is opened, but won't show which tire is low. How to fix this, or why it's happening?
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Message popped up on my dash board just now. What tire pressure do the Kumho's which came with it take?
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This happened once right after I bought the car in February and the service center said that I didn't have low tire pressure, but it registered because "cold air makes the air molecules move slower and sets off the tire pressure sensor". Yet all my tires are at 37 psi. Now this stopped all through the spring, summer and fall and last night it went down to 32 degrees and the thing popped up again!
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Driving home today and all of a sudden, hot air... I stopped and turned the car off then back on, hoping to reset something. Still nothing.
It almost sounds as if I can't even hear the compressor kick on when I turn on the AC button.
Looks like I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow to see if this is still under warranty. Really upset being that this car is only two years old.
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I had a low tire indicator show up on the dash today while driving home. It was flashing. I continued to drive, (only a mile from home) since there was no indication of anything going wrong with the tires. Then, the indicator stopped flashing, and went to steady. Then, by the time I hit the brakes to turn down my road, the indicator was gone. So, I checked all my tires, and with my very old accoutre gauge, they all showed 34.5 (35 being the spec). I hope to not see that again.
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This morning while driving on the freeway, the the transmission stopped shifting into 6th gear. This was at 70 mph. The only way it would shift up to 6th is by using the manual mode, however after manually shifting to 6th I moved the stick back over and it immediately downshifted to 5th at 70+ mph. Concerned, I pulled off and turned the engine off. After i restarted the engine, I continued to my destination and the trans shifted up to 6th on its own. The car has never done this.
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My car is at 63000 miles and the windshield washer just stopped working and wondering if this is covered by warranty? when i press the lever little bit of liquid squirts out and nothing and when i press the lever again all i hear is the motor spinning. Also if this is not covered by warranty how much do you think the dealer will charge to have this fixed?
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2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L .... I have 82,000 miles. Bought with 65,000 miles.
Now when I apply brakes at 60 mph or above i get wobbling (Vibration) on my steering wheel these days. Is it the rotors or pads or both or any alignment issues?
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Friday morning I'm backing my 2011 Sonata Limited out of the garage and I always idle out but this time it started backing about 2 paces faster than idle speed. I hit the brakes and the pedal is on the floor..no brakes..I put it Drive and nothing no power. It didn't stop until I backed into the street curb, tires only no damage. When it hit the curb the brake pedal was back and Drive engaged as if nothing ever happened. Dropped it off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything but did open a case with Hyundai. Saturday doing a couple of backing the brakes were really spongy in reverse only. Will have that checked next week.
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I have a gas leak at the connection of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and high pressure fuel pipe. Gas drips and sprays out from the nut area (see pic). The car take a several seconds to turn over to start.
What is the most likely cause? The car is out of warranty, so trying to repair myself without having to replace any expensive parts unnecessarily.
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My 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
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Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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I have a 2013 sonata gls and I bought it new, it only has 4,000 km on it. I don't know if this has always happened and I am just noticing now or just all of a sudden occurred but when I was stopped at a red light today and I had my defrost on, (heat fan on) it felt like my gas pedal there was a slight pulsation that I could feel. I also noticed earlier in the summer when the ac is on it seems like the car pulsates as well or the engine just sounds rougher. It seems to go away when the ac or heater fan is on 0. Is this an issue or serious problem? Why this is occurring?
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