I own a 93 with 193k miles, and recently I've noticed at speeds 30 mph and above the car will sway when going through a curve, the higher the speed the more difficult it is to keep under control.
View 1 Replies5.4L... My truck has a momentary moan / growl / bog down issue. It happens at town and highway speeds and usually when I have cruise on OR when I lightly apply the gas peddle. It moans for a few seconds and seems to bog down then comes out of it and carry's on its way. You can hear it plainly while driving even with radio on. I have a regular muffler on the truck but when this happens, it makes it sound like I have a catback on it.
Things i have done...
- New air filter
- New oil/filter
- New fuel filter
- Ran techron injector cleaner through tank of gas
My 1997 Town Car has had the sound from the dash related to the blend door actuator in other posts. Noise would last for 5 - 10 minutes and go away. Today I noticed when driving I was getting a wild fluctuation in heat when set to automatic on the climate control so I decided to run the diagnostic to verify the blend door problem. I got code 024 so I know it is the actuator. My problem since I ran the diagnostic(exited by pushing defrost) the actuator noise is now constant and I have no heat, only cool air is blowing. Is there a reset I can do for the actuator? It's as if it is stuck in test mode.
View 8 RepliesCan the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
View 3 RepliesSound is coming from the back wheels i believe. Iv been driving with winter tires on since last year December. I only hear it when im going over 60km/h on a curve on highway.
View 1 RepliesWent around sharp curve it cut off and now won't crank...
View 9 RepliesOkay, I had this before for the right side, and dealer changed bulb. Cost me alot. So, when I got this message recently for the left, went to my mechanic friend. Thought the bulb in question is the fog light in the lower bumper. He took out the old one, which was blown btw, and replaced it. Still getting the message. Not sure why.
How to address this? Are the curve light bulbs infact the driving lights, or is it something else. Thought it was driving lights as the curve feature is disabled if you turn them on. Also, the bulb was in fact blown. I guess I could have had two bulbs out, but that's unlikely.
I got a 2009 SE a few weeks ago. It's got about 103k miles on it.
I've noticed that when going around a curve and hitting bumps that the car wants to move around a lot, feels real loose.
We bought a 2000 Ex V10 4x4 less than a year ago to pull my 2 horse trailer when I wanted to ride (so I didn't have to borrow my husbands truck). This is the 2nd Ex we have owned but the first was years ago and that one was nearly new. This one has 176,000 miles on it and it had significant sway to it. So we have had the steering box rebuilt, new shocks, all new sway bushings replaced and it drives a lot better.
It USE to be just my towing vehicle, but now it's my daily driver (had a BMW X5) and I've noticed that it steers fairly straight on a nice straight smooth highway but when I take the back roads to work (a lot of curves) it wanders. What else should I do to it? And would an air lift in the rear work the same? We had one in our other Ex and it made pulling a trailer better.
I have a intermittent problem with the abs. when I go around a right hand curve there is a clicking sound. This happens between 30 and 40 mph. When I go around a left hand curve the brakes will grab, with the skid i-con illuminate , but no fault code. I have had the toyota dealership looked at it. But they couldn't duplicate. I also had a independent mechanic look at it, he put the computer on it.
View 8 RepliesOk in the last couple weeks I noticed when I am going left in a curve a grinding screeching sound from what sounds like my left front. It only does it when I am in a curve going left. It wont do it going right or just even turning a corner left just a slight turn.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 Passat 1.8T just turned over 100K miles and coming home from a long ride the other day I went round a curve and got the STOP-low engine oil pressure alarm. I immediately stopped and checked the oil and it was full. I restarted the car and the alarm was gone so I drove on home and around a few more days.
Then last weekend it happened again. Now if I crank it up and try to drive up the hill it comes on. Having it towed in the morning to the shop. Is it just a bad oil pump, bad censor, stopped up oil screen or what?
Finally received my Prius 4 a few days ago.. I cannot find the way to get the power mode curve to display on the screen. How to do this? I have been able to get the curve on the HUD but not on the screen next to the speedometer. I do get a bar indicator showing the modes stacked up inside the bar but no curve display.
View 3 RepliesMy 2012 Kia suffered a "catastophic failure" of its transmission about 10K miles. It was replaced, I got a rental, all covered by warranty. Last month I noticed a vibration as I rounded a tight curve at high-ish speed (DC beltway). It felt like mu left front tire was going to fall off. But it came and went. two weeks later, again, vibrating and now I'm noticing it is associated with acceleration. Boyfriend in passenger side says it feels like Right rear wheel, I still feel like it's left front. Next day I drive to Virginia beach and almost turn around, the whole car is shuddering on acceleration at low speeds. I hit 95 and it settles down, but I took it in to dealer as soon as I returned.
Dealer couldn't find anything, so they rotated and rebalanced tires. I drove it home, no problem. Parked it for 2 weeks while I drove my other car. Next time I drive, vibration is back. This time dealer drives it, agrees it feels vibration, couldn't find a cause, but maybe it's debris on axle. Cleaned wheel wells, axles etc. Drove home no problem. Next day, vibration is back. Every time I accelerate it feels like I'm going to drop an axle, when I ease up, it decreases. Worse on curves. At constant speed, no vibration. I don't want to take it in again unless I can point these guys in the right direction. I really want to just give the car back and say give me another one.
I have recently noticed a noise... to describe it would be difficult, but I'll give it a shot. There is a pulsing sound, maybe coming from my front left wheel area? It happens when I turn left driving, even on the smallest curve. From what I can tell, the pulsing sound does NOT change speed when I speed up or slow down. My initial thoughts were a bad wheel bearing, but I'm not so sure. Could it be power steering?
My Kia does have 130000 miles on it, and I just purchased it used a year ago, so I'm not exactly sure what maintenance or repair has been done on it.
2005 Kia Sorento LX 4x4
I noticed something strange in my '12 SE. When going around a long sweeping curve, the passenger seatbelt light will blink. It only happens when I'm pushing it thru the turn. It stops as soon as I straighten the wheel. I do usually have my lunch box sitting in that seat, but it weighs less than 2lbs. I'm guessing the seatbelt sensor takes a lot less weight to activate it since I know the forces of the curve is not making my lunchbox weigh 40lbs, which would make the "airbag off" light go out.
View 4 RepliesWhile driving whenever we turn a curve to the right the steering wheel jerks and the whole front end jerks and will either quit when we slow down or come back straight. It seems the faster we go the worse it is also starting yesterday day we have noticed that the front end is beginning to make a popping or thumping sound while turning a curve or sometime will pop or thump randomly. It's starting to get pretty scary.
Just some info, tires are fine, no wear, all correct pressure. Had to recently use 4x4 in the snow but didn't have any problems with it. Did however hit a ditch pretty hard on the driver side and quickly came back out on the road from sliding off in the snow. Has a bad leak from the power steering reservoir to the pump (the line is bad but can't change it on my own and top off reservoir daily). Truck has 227k miles on body and 157 k on newish motor that was just put on in September.
I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
I replaced my upper radiator hose on my 2000 vintage TC 4.6 liter V-8 yesterday and normally I would add coolant through the top radiator cap and not the overflow reservoir.
Apparently this car does not have a radiator cap and has only the overflow reservoir tank to add anti-freeze. Checked the owner's manual and my Lincoln repair book, they just said to use the reservoir tank. While I did not loose or have to add much, what if I had to replace the lower hose, or the radiator itself with all that coolant gone?
In other words while I am waiting for the overflow tank to add anti-freeze while the engine is running, I am operating a car with out enough or no liquid at all which seems nuts, is there some technique that I don't know about to add anti-freeze?
My neighbor asked me to look at her "car". The car is around a '92. After taking the column apart, I found the problem. The PLASTIC piece connecting the ignition switch to the ignition box broke. I would like to know the name of that part, and anywhere one can be found(new). I know I probably have to remove the steering wheel, and of course, the ignition switch.
View 1 RepliesWhen it gets cold (about 40 Fahrenheit or less) and I drive the car after it hasn't been driven for a few hours, the temp gauge goes way up and there's no heat. But after a little while I can rev the engine hard and the temp drops and the heat starts blowing warm. The radiator is full with pretty much 100% antifreeze.
View 3 Replies