My 2003 Ford Escape pulls drastically to the right. If I don't hold the steering wheel to the left it will change lanes on its own. They mechanics are stumped - they swear it's not my alignment, and they have had me replace my tires, which didn't work.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 Mazda Protege DX. I recently had a flat on the front passenger side. The tire was worn and the shop replaced both front tires, rotated them to the back and the ones that were in the rear to the front. So the new tires are on the rear and the the old tires are in the front. When we got the car back it started pulling pretty drastically to the right and on the highway has a tendency to dart (it was not like this when we brought it in). We took it back and they said that it was due to uneven ware on the front and bad bushings. Is this true? And, why would it be fine one evening and start to pull so drastically the next day?
View 9 Replies2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
View 13 RepliesI have a 1995 F250 SuperDuty pickup with a 5.8L FI Engine and an automatic Transmission with Overdrive. The truck runs great except when I am towing a trailer up a grade. When I start the grade climb after a few minutes, the Check Engine Light starts blinking and then stays On, and the power drops off drastically. Sometimes I am just going 30 mph up the grade. Doesn't matter if I am towing a 1500 Lb or a 6000 LB trailer, the behavior is the same. I might mention that when I am towing I turn OFF the overdrive via the button on the end of the transmission shifter. When I reach the summit, of if I am going downhill, or on flat ground the Check Engine light goes OFF and power returns. I understand that the 1995 F250's computer does not store codes, so I am up the creek on this one. I don't know how I can simulate the condition at a mechanics shop.
View 5 RepliesGot 60K on my 2008 ES350 Ultra Lux edition. Feels like it rides on a pillow of air compared to my BMW. The car feels like it is going to roll over when I turn a corner or change lanes rapidly, so I'm guessing they are shot. Or is this how this car is meant to drive - like an overweight Cadillac Just bought the car so have no reference to what it was like new.
View 2 RepliesSo here's the scenario: Driving home. Traffic is pretty heavy, I'm not traveling more than 20 MPH. When I go to change lanes the engine suddenly dies; I have no more power and can barely steer the car off the highway. I had enough momentum to roll to the shoulder. Try to restart the car, but all I hear is a high-pitched whine.
Get towed to the dealer. The mechanic took a look and said the timing belt snapped and bent the valves. But he also thinks there might be additional damage to the engine. We're gonna get a better assessment of what's going on on Monday when the service department's boss comes back from vacation.
My question is: if the car is indeed dead, can I expect to get anything from VW? Will they reimburse me the value of the car towards a new car? Should I see how much to get the car fixed? (They say a new engine might be needed.)
Specifics on the car: 1999 Passat, 1.8 turbo, a little over 86k miles. Car is in great condition, aside from what just happened.
How to make the 2012 Camry SEV6 turn signals do the little 3 blink for changing lanes, llike the newer ones, or the corollas do... Is it impossible???
View 14 RepliesTrouble light indicates intermittently and Beeps when changing lanes or turning quickly.
View 10 RepliesI have Prius 2010 and I was getting 20 km/l to 22 km/l until I repaired the part which is between two tires and when you revolve your steering it revolve due to that rod. Right after I drive my car as I came out of workshop, it seems that my engine keep running more and turn off less.
1- Can I check if my Hybrid battery is getting weak or what is the health of my hybrid battery ?
2- Is there any way if I can check my front tires are revolving without any friction and revolving freely ?
I am wondering what would cause the idle on a 1992 bmw 525i to drastically rise and fall continuously.
View 5 Replies2003 Dodge Durango 4wd, 4.7 liter, 130,000 miles ... I'm having a problem with stalling. First started about 3 months ago, when I would come to a stop, the rpm's would fall off drastically, but would rebound right away. About a week later, it would actually stall, but I could start it without a problem. Took it to a local shop where they said my cam sensor needed replacement. That was done and it ran good for about 2 weeks when the same thing started again.
Took it back to the same shop and they told me that the cam sensor had gone bad or the sensor that had been put in was faulty. They replaced it at no charge to me, but they said that the crank sensor needed to be flashed and that had to be done by the dealer. So off to the dealer I went, and they told me that the crank sensor needed to be replaced not flashed. I had them do that and it ran good for about 2 weeks again and now it's starting to stall again.
I have a 2004 Dodge Intrepid. Here's the deal. When I drive on the highway (higher speeds) and then slow down, the car (automatic transmission) automatically downshifts drastically (like throw me through the windshield drastically) and then will not come out of that lower gear.. UNLESS I turn off the engine and restart it, THEN it fixes itself (took me a while to discover this). When I am driving around town at lower speeds this does not happen. Only if I get to higher speeds and then slow down. And one other symptom...SOMETIMES I can just be at a stop light/sign, still in drive, but when I put on the gas to go, it stays, like the car is in neutral, even though the gearshift is still in drive.
View 8 RepliesSo I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
Just as the title says I'm getting a good pull to the right when braking. Little background, truck has 155k, rotors and pads replaced 10 days ago, new tires today. Now with the new tires the pull is more pronounced than with the old tires but has been there, which I thought was just worn out rubber, apparently not.
All caliper pins are greased and moving freely, and for kicks I replaced left pins to see if some how they were fouling up, they weren't, still pulling. So my question after searching is maybe the last two culprits are bad caliper or bad hose? I just wanted to bounce this off the board and see if I am on the right track to fix this issue.
I've got a 1995 Ford Ranger that pulls hard to the right. It has always pulled to the right a little, but recently it has been worse. About a year and a half ago I replaced all four shocks, the two front tires, and had all four wheels aligned, but this did not stop the slight pull to the right. I get it back from the mechanic yesterday, and he tells me that there is a little bit of wire showing on the inside or the front drivers side tire.Is there some kind of joint or something in the steering that may be worn out that needs to be replaced? If so, how much does something like this cost to replace?I've been slowly replacing everything on my truck that needs to be replaced as I get the money, but it seems that lately it's just got way more expensive. I know that it's not a cheap fix for something like this, but I just wish it wouldn't happen all at once
View 2 RepliesHad mechanic check suspension components, alignment is fine, nothing looks damage or needs to be replaced. Tires are 35 inch and practically brand-new...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 XLT, V10, Auto, 4" suspension lift on 315/75R16. It recently started pulling to the left and has been getting worse. At <5mph the steering wheel will pulse to the left almost a quarter turn if you let it go and hold there. At actual driving speeds it feels like a constant pressure. The tire appears to have a wobble to it when driving, I know this because my wife drove followed me in it so I could observe.
It also turned easier to the left than to the right when I jacked up the front end and both wheels spun with ease. I have checked the tire rod, drag link, ball joints, and wheel bearings. They all checked out. The last things I can think to do would be to check the steering stabilizers, I have the dual inline set up, or swap the front tires and see if the problem moves from left to right.
It's an 08 Ford F-150. 4x4... Truck was pulling hard to the right. Took it in and got the alignment done, they told me front right was worn and would still pull slight right. When I drove it, still pulled just as hard. Took it back and had tires rotated, they test drove it multiple times and made small adjustments then told me it was good to go. Drove to work today and still pulling. Not quite as bad but definitely more than a slight pull. What's my next step? What else could cause this?
View 19 Replies2011 Ford Taurus with 4000 miles. Car, at times, will pull to one side when brakes applied. Dealer could find nothing wrong first time(no cost). Second time they found that the "rear pads stuck in brackets on both sides. removed calipers brackets and pads and did full clean and reassembled". Third time road test found "no pull". "checked on ramp, all brakes seem fine, all free and moving properly. No problem found.". Road test with technician found slight vibration in steering wheel when braking but no pull. Technician says an uneven or slanting street could cause car to pull. Never heard of this before (my other car is fine on the same roads & streets). Is this a possibility as a cause of my problem?
View 17 RepliesIf I use my remote to unlock my 2013 F150 FX4 it takes two pulls on the door handle to open the door. The first pull doesn't do anything I can notice, then the second one opens the door. Is that the way it's supposed to work?
View 12 Replies