Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2004 - Shaking As If Vehicle Will Stall
Aug 8, 2013
My 2004 Jetta with 58.5K miles (bought new) stalled in traffic 3 weeks ago. A few seconds later I turned the key and it started OK- no stalling since. For the last 3+ years I have taken it in for shaking as if the vehicle will stall and sometimes it's close to that, especially when I come to a stop at the traffic light. This week the rubber thing I think called under tray came down. Also, the clock is off with an hour. This car usually goes to the VW dealer for service.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I am having a problem with my car stalling randomly. It happens when I am driving and it also happened when the car was idling in the driveway. I believe it to be an electrical problem as there are no lights on the dashboard when I try to turn it over, however after a few minutes it will start and run ok. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but now I'm not so sure. There is no pattern to when it happens either. When driving the car will start sputtering then stall. I'll let it sit for a minute or so, then it starts again. What can be causing this?
View 5 Replies
So, I recently bought a 99.5 Jetta. (99 with a 00 body), fixes a few things. Alternator, oil pan, head gasket. I recently drove the car just up the road, drove it back. Went to pull in to my spot and it shut off! Wouldn't start but would crank over. Days go by, same problem. Runs for about 10 minutes then just dies. Fuel pump works, fuel filter isn't clogged. And the fuel relay works.
View 1 Replies
I have an '04 Jetta TDI that stalls occasionally for the past 9 months. The stalling almost always occurs when I am stopped in traffic and then it restarts immediately. Recently it also stalled as I was driving down the street. Any clues? Seems to me like it might have something to do with the battery or alternator but I really don't know anything about diesel engines.
View 2 Replies
Why my 2004 Jetta 1.8T Stalls out while Driving? It usually happens while on the Freeway, 60-70 Mph, I Coast to the Shoulder then it starts back up again...
View 3 Replies
2004 jetta, interior lights & door open light on dashboard intermittently come on and off while driving.
View 6 Replies
2003 Camry V6 145,000 km. original starter, alternator, battery new replaced 2 months ago.
Scenario #1 - vehicle does not crank. electricity is flowing (instrument panel lights on, can even alarm lock). started after hitting both the starter and battery terminal.
Scenario #2 - vehicle cranks from parking stall. Reverse backing out 3 feet, car dies, instrument panel lights are on.
View 7 Replies
Recently (5 weeks ago), my 2004 Jetta misfired, which caused the car to shake very noticeably, especially at lower speeds or while idling. The misfire was accompanied by the smell of fuel on the driver side and triggered the check engine light to flash. I took it to the shop (a VW dealer). They ran diagnostics, found it signaled a misfire (but no other major issues/sensors) and told me it was due to the spark plugs/wires. I was dubious, as they were not too old, but I allowed them to replace them anyway, as they assured me this would fix the problem.
Just this week, however, another misfire occurred, also accompanied by the smell of fuel and shaking. This time, the check engine light remained on (constant) for 2 days, and on the third day, it was off. I brought it back to the same shop to try to figure out the real cause of the misfire, which obviously was not the previous spark plugs. My city gas mileage has also decreased over the past month - down to about 20-21 mpg from 23-24. What could be causing such a reoccurring misfire without signaling an issue with a sensor or other part?
View 12 Replies
My 2004 VW Jetta TDI has a pulsing sensation at 2000 and 2500 rpm. It is a manual transmission. We've recently replaced the clutch/flywheel and the fuel filter. The problem has been progressively getting more common. Injectors, turbo, fuel filter problems?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2004 Jetta TDI Stationwagon. In January it started having starting problems. The car would crank but not fire. After about 8-9 tries it would fire. MOstly does it first crank of the day (whether morning or afternoon).
Mechanic #1 said it was the fuel filter and changed it. But it still had starting problems. Then Mechanic #1 said it was a sensor and changed it. Still had starting problems. In February, Mechanic #2 said it was the fuel pump. Changed the fuel pump. Still had starting problems.
Then Mechanic #2 said it was the crank sensor. But when he checked the crank sensor was brand new (apparently Mech #1 changed it in January). Still had same starting problems.
Mechanic #3 said he received the Crank sensor diagnostic error too but he checked it and it was brand new! He told me to take it to the dealer. I did. Dealer said no it wasn't the crank sensor it was the new fuel pump installed in April was defective. Took off the brand new fuel pump that was installed another brand new fuel pump. Next day car started fine but two days later didn't start again. Took car back to the dealer. They said after all it wasn't the fuel pump it was the crank sensor. After a couple days they said it wasn't the crank sensor but it was the EGR valve that was clogged with carbon. They changed the EGR valve, cleaned it out and gave the car back to me.
Today the car doesn't start again! I tried it about 7 times! Dealer is going to haul it back and try to figure it out! But I am frustrated! What could it be?
View 12 Replies
I've recently noticed that when I accelerate really hard on my vehicle it will completely stall out at 40mph. Once I let off the gas and begin accelerating again all is good. However the car will not enable me to just step on when without stalling out.
View 10 Replies
We have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
View 6 Replies
I have a 99 f150 with 171xxx miles and the other day it suck in second gear and start shaking and misfiring and would stall out. I took the truck and got the codes read and it threw codes for the tcc solenoid and shift solenoid. I put both in the transmission and it kepy doing the same thing. I check fuse 24 under the hood and it was blown, I replaced it and everything worked fine for a day then it blew the fuse 2 more times and i cant figure out why it is blowing that fuse. I cant find any shorts maybe pcm??
View 5 Replies
After a rotate and balance, car started shaking when I accelerated. It only shakes on acceleration. I thought I need and alignment so I had one. Didn't stop. I replaced all four tires, breaks, and rotors as well as the front axles. Still shaking when accelerating.
View 4 Replies
A couple months ago my VW Passat started locking itself and sounding the horn spontaneously, and now it is rolling down the windows randomly as well. My key isn't in the ignition when this happens. I got locked out once which was annoying, but now the windows rolling down make it a security issue and I really don't want the windows down in a parking lot during the next snowstorm. The heater quit working last week, too.
The car is only 2 years old and the dealership said they can fix the heater but they aren't sure what would be wrong with the spontaneous horn/window/locking problems.
View 1 Replies
I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
View 4 Replies
First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
Volvo.jpg ( 2.19MB )
View 3 Replies
I have a shake at 60-78 mph. Have had the tires balanced three times, last balance is beter. I'm thinking of switching the wheels from my 05 F250 to the 03 Excursion to verify a tire problem. Will the factory F250 17" wheels fit for the test? Both are 4x4 vehicles. The truck rides smooth.
View 5 Replies
I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
View 8 Replies
My daughters '09 Corolla was shaking and misfiring occasionally. When she took it to the shop the mechanic had it for a couple days and after many attempts finally reproduced the issue. After several diagnostics tests they determined it to be a damaged cylinder. We had the option of
1. replacing the engine
2. retooling it
I called around to a couple other mechanics and they told me the same thing. One particular mechanic (no affiliated with Toyota) told us that he had heard this happening on both the Camry and the Corolla. Sound like a manufacturer issues if it's been seen frequently.
View 5 Replies
The car will start and run for about 10 seconds and stall. The engine has been completely rebuilt 20k miles ago. The timing is perfect and the car makes 190psi on every cylinder
I should point out that it is NOT the immobilizer. it has been checked over and over and verified to not be the immobilizer. Here is everything that has been done.
- New fuel pump
- fuel filter
- fuel pump relay
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel injectors
- fuel pressure has been verified
- spark plugs
- ignition coils
- crankshaft position sensor
- cam position sensor
- MAF sensor
- throttle body
- CU has been tried in another Jetta. worked fine
- gauge cluster worked fine in other Jetta as well.
- brand new battery
- alternator checked and passed
- grounds checked, all fine
The car has been scanned with VCDS. Here are the results:
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
Here is a video of what the car is doing.
I am able to rev the engine but it dies quickly afterwards. vacuum pressure looks completely fine on the boost gauge.
My roommate has a 1.8t jetta as well so I have access to his car for trying things with.
View 3 Replies
