1995 Mazda Protege 1.5 .... My car will not start sometimes. It is not all the time but I just wanted to know anything that it could be causing the problem. I cleaned the throttle body. that is all i have done to the car so far.
View 7 RepliesI am the original owner of the car, which has approximately 125k miles on it. The car has given me great service, but lately a strange problem arose that has my mechanic stumped. When I try to accelerate, the car typically does not respond. After 5 seconds or so, the engine suddenly comes to life and the car begins to accelerate. At high speeds it is not an issue, but the engine sputters once in a while. It has never stalled. It is not the transmission because the RPM stays low during low-power times.
The mechanic initially thought that it was a dirty fuel filter. But, changing it has not worked. Once the engine light came on, and the code was for the air-flow sensor. But, the mechanic is not convinced about that.
The problem tends to become worse after driving for a while, after the engine has warmed up.
I have a 95 Mazda protege. The battery went dead from leaving the lights on. We jumped it and everything was ok. Drove around, shut it off and it started again, no problem. The next day the car wouldn't start. Had dash lights, and it clicked but this time there is a high pitched noise. It is not an engine noise. I jumped it, it started right up. Tested the alternator, its putting out 14 volts. I could not find the source of the noise. I checked that all doors were closed and that sort of thing. I shut car off to see what would happen, the tone of the noise changed but car hadn't built up enough charge to re start.
View 13 RepliesHave a 95 Mazda Millenia - ran ok till plugs, cap & rotor changed - now it will barely idle & hesitates, coughs & spits until you get it up to 3K rpm - there and above it's smooth - below 3K it loads up & blows out black smoke (rich). What's wrong ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Mazda Truck, B2300 series that is a 4 wheel drive. Recently I had the front brakes replaced, new clay disc brakes. Not so long after that I started to hear a noise as I was braking as well as squeaking. I thought, of course it had something to do with the new brakes. The sound happened occasionally at first and now is every time I brake.
I can hear it as I'm coming to a stop, sounding like it's coming from the rear. It's a rubbing type noise, like a wa, wa, wa, wa that happens until I have stopped. After 2 mechanics I now have a $700 estimate to replace the u-joint, and they aren't even sure if that will fix it.
The front brakes are new. The rear drums have been replaced and machined to fit properly (they thought that was the issue). Is this common or something that I have to fix every such and such miles?
So i just bought a b4000 pickup 5spd .. Anyway the truck has eletrical 4x4 with manual hubs. When i turn the switch nothing happens. The 4wd/4wd low lights both flash 6x then go off then flash again while running , driving, koeo, anytime like an obd1 check engine light code flashing. Anyway i checked the wiring for the 4wd switch no power, went to the fuse interior no pwr, went to the engine fuse box power. You don't hear the transfer case engage at all as well.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Mazda 626 and it randomly does not start. Sometimes I try to start the car and when I turn the ignition, there is no sound. The battery is brand new and so are the spark plugs. This happened a couple times. The first time I just tried again about 15 minutes later and it started up. The next time I was playing with battery terminal wires and it started. The third time I tried to move the battery terminals but that did not work so I put the car in neutral and moved it front and back and it started. Why is this happening?
View 4 RepliesRecently I took my 2003 Mazda Protege5 with 150k miles to a mechanic because It would not start after over heating. I had a new Radiator put in it and still didn't fix the problem. The mechanic told me I now need a new cylinder head gasket. That didn't fix the problem. So he told me I now need a new engine. The total would be around $3,000.00. Or he could just take the car from me and give me a digistream box for my Tv that would save me "hundreds of dollars" from a cable bill. (it streams live tv) I was so fed up- and on top of moving out of state I gave him the car in exchange. The box doesn't work for beans and I still have the title to my car. He told me he sold the car to a nice family and needs the title asap. I feel so ripped off. I had just put in a new Cat. converter which was 2k. plus it was just registered. It had new rims, tires, tinted windows and a blue tooth stereo. It was in great condition minus this "engine" part. How much do you think I should have gotten from this? Was it fair.
View 19 RepliesMY mazda 6 wagon creaks and groans like a couch's rusty springs, when i start out in the morning, though later it fades somewhat. The noise seems to come from under the car. I don't know anything about suspension & shock absorbers.
View 2 RepliesMy Mazda MPV suddenly won't start. When I turn the car on and try using the electronic locks, that "locking" sound sounds very weak and the car is unable to lock or unlock itself. I tried jumping it, and I took the battery to an auto shop which said that battery was fine. I recall that last time I drove the car, the O/D light was blinking, which I found odd. So, what's wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Mazda Protege. As of last summer it started giving me problems with not wanting to start after I had driven it around town for a little while. (IE: to the grocery store, to the bank and then to my sister's house. It wouldn't give me the same problem if I just went to the grocery store and back home. It would start up fine and I'd be on my way. Only when I went somewhere and shut it off then repeated that a couple more times.) I took it to a mechanic who wholeheartedly believed it was the coil packs not allowing my car to function properly.
So we replaced those and everything seemed on the up and up. (Keep in mind that this was towards the end of summer and the temperature was dropping.) The car was perfect all throughout the fall and winter, but now that the temperature outside is starting to rise again it's beginning to do the same thing it did last summer. I don't want to take it to another mechanic that's going to have me dish out an extravagant amount of money again only for the problem to persist.
I have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).
In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.
Last week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
View 2 RepliesMy son's mazda 6 will turn over but not start. the things I have done:
1. replace crank sensor
2. replace cam shaft sensors
3. it has spark
4. fuel pump works
5. sprayed starting fluid in still will not start.
What else should I check? Security system?
My Mazda MPV (2000) won't start. The dashboard lights work and the headlights work so the battery is okay, but when I try and start the engine it won't even crank.
The problem might be that last night I pulled the key out while it was on 'drive' but i was able to start it after and put it back into park. This morning though it won't even start.
Some things i noticed that may or may not be related are that the brakes pedal is very stiff, also when i press on the brakes it makes a clicking noise in the ignition, and the steering wheel is very stiff even when the key is turned to ACC. Is it permanently stuck in anti-theft or something?
I have a 2003 Mazda B2300 pickup that sometimes won't start. When you turn the key all the way, it won't do anything, no sounds no nothing. However, if you try it a few more times it will eventually fire up and run normally. Last Friday, I must have tried to turn it on about a dozen times but nothing happened. So I tried the old hammer on the starter motor technique and it fired up immediately.
So I thought it must be the starter motor. But since then it's been turning on normally, except once when I turned the key and it did nothing. The battery is good, I replaced that about 8 months ago, and the battery cables look good. I'm hesitant to throw a new starter in. Could it be something cheaper, like a relay or some other electrical problem? Or could it be the starter and its on its way out?
I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX 1.5 L 4 Cylinder and i have been having some starting issues, and stalling at stop lights.
To be clear i have replaced/cleaned, Injectors, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap, Distributor Coil, Air Filter, Cleaned MAF, Cleaned the EGR Valve,
My car won't start in the morning, just gives cranks but if I press gas pedal it starts and have to keep it until engine gets hot enough. then it works till the car cools down again, and repeat the problem in the morning when I have to go to work. When the car is warm it starts fine but has idle issues regardless of temperature. As usual when the engine is cold or cool, it won't start.
Visited 2 different mechanic shops and the problem still exist, I don't know how and what they did it, it only worked for couple of months and the engine noise was bit high, I believe he just increased the idle, When i am at stop lights it has a rough idle and tries to die, When it idles it idles rough, Every once in a while I get a CEL Cylinder Misfire on cylinder 4. I'm confused on want to do , Don't know what else to do and its getting tiring, The car also feels like a lack of power.
Been having this problem since this past Easter when our mechanic installed new valve cover gaskets.
When the van is hot (normal operating temperature) and you turn it off just for a minute, like to get gas, and try and restart it acts like it’s not getting enough gas. It will cough and sputter and balk. It will finally start though and after 30 second all will calm down and it will run fine.
One big problem is, is that is intermittent – meaning it won’t mess up for the mechanic and putting it on the computer shows nothing wrong.
One mechanic said it was a cracked distributor. Replaced that for $400. and same problem. I’ve also cleaned the Mas Air Flow sensor and changed the fuel filter.
My Mazda MPV will stall at slow speeds, such as if I am turning a corner or slowing down at a stoplight. Sometimes it starts back up once I put it into park, but other times it takes a few minutes of trying/resting before it will start up. One day, I am afraid it won't start up at all again. I just got new spark plugs and recently got a new mass airflow thingy put in. Check engine light does not come on for this.
View 2 RepliesI'll be driving the car fine, but after driving for maybe 10+ minutes and then stopping for 20-30 minutes, my manual 2002 Mazda Tribute DX (about 126K miles) won't start. It doesn't act flooded at all, all I hear is a click. The lights and radio and air conditioning and everything come on perfectly, but it won't start. About half of the time, it won't work at all with repeated attempts but after about 5 min. it'll just start normally. I've towed it to a shop 3 times now, on the first the alternator was replaced, and after about a week the same problem occurred, etc.
My mechanic then thought I might not be pressing the clutch all the way down since it worked right after towing but after about a week (I removed the floor mat and even made a video of me, a relatively large male, pressing as hard as safely possible on the clutch) but it still wouldn't start. It was towed, and now the car is at the shop again but the mechanic can't reproduce the problem yet again. Its battery and clutch were just replaced about a year ago, the connections don't look corroded, and my mechanic's tests on the alternator seem fine. Steering wheel isn't locked, and (supposedly) the shop's tried looking at the starter.
Problem: car cranks but doesn't start then randomly it will start. 2 different shops...first thought maybe battery (no it cranks) but said these cars are notorious for cam sensor problems they didn't have software to diagnose. Brought to dealership again battery (we were finally beat down and replaced battery) ...then brought home if car sat for a few days totally dead needed jumpstart....brought back to dealer they replaced cam sensor and timing belt...went to pick it up and you guessed it....cranked but didn't start....mechanic came out and it started....so after replacing several parts we are back to the same problem intermittent crank without start...
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