MY mazda 6 wagon creaks and groans like a couch's rusty springs, when i start out in the morning, though later it fades somewhat. The noise seems to come from under the car. I don't know anything about suspension & shock absorbers.
View 2 RepliesOur 2008 Honda Accord has about 89,000 miles on it. For the last few years, it has been making a creaking/groaning sound at low speeds. Generally between 10-20 miles an hour (so you hear in more in rush hour when you are generally annoyed anyway), only when its hot (due to extensive driving or weather - we live in Texas so its awful in the summer) and it does not correlate to using the brakes. We took it to Honda and they said the "bushings" were worn but not broken so they wouldn't fix it. Our own shop has replace both front control arms. The right side they did last week and 3 days later the sound is starting up again. Its almost as if they can lube it to fix it temporarily but I'd much rather a permanent fix. My father in law suggested the struts.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1991 Toyota Corolla Wagon (150,000 miles) with noise coming from right front wheel well. My car is making groaning and creaking noises like the hinges of an old wooden door. CV joints serviced <5000 miles and the boots are clean and intact. There is no clicking noises during a turn Left or Right. Bouncing the right front corner does not replicate the sounds, tho' there is some slight squeaking noise not heard from the shocks/struts in the other corners. The sound is NOT heard in the morning going to work, but is very noticeable driving home at 5pm. I notice the sound going downhill at 35 mph, but goes away with light braking, Going over railroad tracks does not affect the noises. I'm thinking this could be worn bushings, strut mounts or who knows what?
View 1 RepliesI recently replaced the brakes on my '99 Passat with all new rotors and pads. I used Mintex pads in front, as recommended by Adirondack Auto Brokers, and after a couple thousand miles, they are all broken in. The car stops fine and the pedal feels good, but there is always a groaning/vibration/creaking right at the very end of the stop. Nothing unsafe or a problem, but just annoying. It is only when the car comes to a complete stop at the last 6 inches of motion. If I let the brake pedal up slowly from a stop, it will also do it. What can I do to get rid of this, or is it from the pads and I just have to live with it until they are replaced?
View 2 RepliesAs stated in the title, I've been experiencing a creaking/groaning noise originating from the dead pedal/foot-rest area when I release the clutch as I'm accelerating from first gear. This happens more so when I'm accelerating from a stop on any sort of incline (irrespective of the grade) and primarily in the afternoon/early evening when the weather's at its warmest for the day.
The noise itself originated about a month ago. Although I describe it as a creaking/groaning it sometimes sounds like a slight metal on metal friction noise.
My car's stock with the exception of Driver Gear springs and a BSH 27mm sway bar in the rear. Wheels are OEM 16s. I've had the DG springs on my car for about 3 months before this noise began and mileage was around 9,900Km.
In January I purchased a 2007 Mazda 6 with a manual transmission. For the past several weeks I have noticed a low groaning like sound coming from the front end of the car. It only happens when I'm moving at a slow speed. It's most noticeable when just starting and stopping in either 1st or reverse. I thought it might be the breaks, but it happens even when the brakes are not applied. What this could be? I'd prefer to wait to have it checked when I bring it in for it's scheduled maintenance, but not sure if that would be a risky/expensive decision.
View 4 Replies2011 GLS 2.4L auto, 40K, out of warranty
There is a loud groaning/creaking noise coming from the front suspension area. At low speeds, this noise dominates all other noises and is directly related to hitting the gas or pressing the brakes, which produces a forward or backward force on the front suspension and chassis. I can sometimes hear it briefly just by pushing against the parked car.
My hope is that I can just tighten up some bolts and make this go away, but other posts suggest it may be struts, stabilizer links or other non-obvious sources.
About a month ago my 2006 Mazda3 (35,000 mi) started making loud creaking sounds everytime I turned and went over a bump. I took it into two mechanic shops and they both said the struts in the front were leaking fluid and needed to be replaced, in addition to the mounts and the swaybar link. I had all of this done, but when I got my car back it was making a new, very loud, clunking sound that I could also feel on one side when I drove over bumps. The sound was similar to the noise your car makes when the undercarriage hits the ground over a bump. I immediately took it back in, and the mechanic told me that the set of struts he had installed were "bad" and that he would put in new ones. This was done this weekend, but now my car is making the original creaking and groaning sound it did before, except much more audibly now. My car groans and creaks even if I turn the wheel while motionless.
I've heard that cars need time to "settle" into new struts. Does my car just need time to adjust?
I drive a 2002 Protege5 with about 125K miles. The suspension (struts and mounts) and brakes have been recently replaced and, with the arising of the Mystery Noise, checked by a mechanic as of last week. The noise sounds like a creaking or bumping in the front end of the vehicle, and comes primarily when slowing to a stop, when the brakes are applied or not. The pace slows as you stop. And it is not always predictable: the mechanic could not recreate the noise, but my wife and I hear it all the time.
I'm just speculating, but should we be looking at the bearings, axles, CV joints... or is this going to get even more expensive? What should I ask the mechanic to look at on this thing?
When starting the car and ONLY when it's a cold start, like sitting overnight, it makes this weird "groaning" or "whining" noise. I took a video of it because if I drive it to the dealer, then start the car there, it's not going to do it as it only happens after a long period of being off. Listen really closely after the car starts and right before the radio comes on, you will hear a faint groaning noise. It's louder in person, but this is the best I could do.
[URL] ......
Starting a hot engine in my 94 3.0L RWD occasionally produces a low- pitch 'wah-wah-wah' groaning noise that goes away after 3-4 seconds. It sounds like it's coming from the engine itself and what I'm hearing is an engine running without sufficient oil. It has never happened on cold starts, but about 30-40% of the time when restarting, like at a gas station after fill up, etc. I live in sunny San Diego so I put 10W40 in at the last oil change. It's also currently overfilled by about a quart--I intend to remedy, but have not gotten around to it yet. Could it be the viscosity or quantity of oil? It's a real sphincter puckerer of a sound and I want to get it resolved.
View 2 RepliesDealer says groaning noise at start up, when I let my foot off brake at a stand still is normal,worse if i turn steering wheel with brake on.
View 8 Replies1995 Mazda Protege 1.5 .... My car will not start sometimes. It is not all the time but I just wanted to know anything that it could be causing the problem. I cleaned the throttle body. that is all i have done to the car so far.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Mazda 626 and it randomly does not start. Sometimes I try to start the car and when I turn the ignition, there is no sound. The battery is brand new and so are the spark plugs. This happened a couple times. The first time I just tried again about 15 minutes later and it started up. The next time I was playing with battery terminal wires and it started. The third time I tried to move the battery terminals but that did not work so I put the car in neutral and moved it front and back and it started. Why is this happening?
View 4 RepliesRecently I took my 2003 Mazda Protege5 with 150k miles to a mechanic because It would not start after over heating. I had a new Radiator put in it and still didn't fix the problem. The mechanic told me I now need a new cylinder head gasket. That didn't fix the problem. So he told me I now need a new engine. The total would be around $3,000.00. Or he could just take the car from me and give me a digistream box for my Tv that would save me "hundreds of dollars" from a cable bill. (it streams live tv) I was so fed up- and on top of moving out of state I gave him the car in exchange. The box doesn't work for beans and I still have the title to my car. He told me he sold the car to a nice family and needs the title asap. I feel so ripped off. I had just put in a new Cat. converter which was 2k. plus it was just registered. It had new rims, tires, tinted windows and a blue tooth stereo. It was in great condition minus this "engine" part. How much do you think I should have gotten from this? Was it fair.
View 19 RepliesMy Mazda MPV suddenly won't start. When I turn the car on and try using the electronic locks, that "locking" sound sounds very weak and the car is unable to lock or unlock itself. I tried jumping it, and I took the battery to an auto shop which said that battery was fine. I recall that last time I drove the car, the O/D light was blinking, which I found odd. So, what's wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Mazda Protege. As of last summer it started giving me problems with not wanting to start after I had driven it around town for a little while. (IE: to the grocery store, to the bank and then to my sister's house. It wouldn't give me the same problem if I just went to the grocery store and back home. It would start up fine and I'd be on my way. Only when I went somewhere and shut it off then repeated that a couple more times.) I took it to a mechanic who wholeheartedly believed it was the coil packs not allowing my car to function properly.
So we replaced those and everything seemed on the up and up. (Keep in mind that this was towards the end of summer and the temperature was dropping.) The car was perfect all throughout the fall and winter, but now that the temperature outside is starting to rise again it's beginning to do the same thing it did last summer. I don't want to take it to another mechanic that's going to have me dish out an extravagant amount of money again only for the problem to persist.
I have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).
In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.
So, don't know if this is normal or not, but after lifting the rig, I'm experiencing a whole lot of these types of sounds from the leafs or the springs or whatever, whenever I start, stop, or turn. Is there an easy way to silence the noise? I've tried all sorts of lubricants on the leafs and springs, but I only get (at best) a week of muted noises. While it's only an inconvenience, it sure would be nice to have the rig be quiet again.
View 6 RepliesLast week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
View 2 RepliesMy son's mazda 6 will turn over but not start. the things I have done:
1. replace crank sensor
2. replace cam shaft sensors
3. it has spark
4. fuel pump works
5. sprayed starting fluid in still will not start.
What else should I check? Security system?