Mercury - Mystique :: 1998 - Brakes Malfunction - Pulls To The Right
Apr 26, 2011
Brakes on 1998 1/2 Mercury Mystique pull to the right. Everything except the master cylinder has been replaced. Online info from people with similar problems,show replacing master cylinder has not worked. Appears to be a lot of people with the same problem yet they cannot find the root of the problem. No recall has been issued. I have been to the dealership and several repair shops and I am sinking money into a problem that has yet to be resolved.
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This is something my car has been doing for a while but it seems like it's gotten gradually worse, or at least I've been noticing it more. The car's a 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L 4-cyl, 74000 miles. The issue arises when I am idling in drive (like at a red light). There is a distinct rumbling that you can feel through the seat and the steering wheel, and see if you look at the wheel or dashboard. It's not visible from outside the car, though.
The vibration is worst when the car is idling low -- typically around 500 rpm. When I'm driving, the vibration is not noticeable. Also, when idling, the rpms "pulse" upwards to about 700 rpm, and the vibration goes away. It will be rough for about 5 seconds, then bump up to 700 rpm for a second or so and smooth out. If the car is in neutral or park, the vibration goes away.
So I suppose there's two issues: 1) the low idle that "pulses" upwards, and 2) the vibration itself. Is the vibration just an effect of idling too low, and raising the idle might fix the problem? What would cause a low idle? Or, if the idle does not seem too low, what would cause vibration that is dependent on RPMs?
The scheduled maintenance is up to date, but the car is due for 75K maintenance next weekend. The PCV system was cleaned and valve replaced, air filter replaced, and spark plugs and wires replaced 12000 miles (~1 yr) ago. The idle air control valve was replaced at around 55000 miles (~2 yrs ago), I believe (the previous owner, a friend of mine, had had trouble with the car stalling at idle, and replacing the IACV seemed to fix it).
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Temperature gauge stuck past hot since my engine overheated once due to a broken water pump belt...
How can I fix a stuck coolant temperature gauge?
Its on a 1998 Mercury Mystique.
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I have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
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My son has a 1963 Mercury Comet with a 170 straight 6 and automatic trans. Originally it would die when he made a sharp left. We fixed that by rebuilding the carb and putting in a new float. Then we found that the back brakes weren't working and had to replace a clogged brake line. Now for the weird problem. Whenever he brakes it pulls slightly left and the motor almost dies. If he anticipates the pull and steers right the car keeps running beautifully. I am assuming that the pull is probably caused by not getting all of the air out of the brake lines, but why does the car almost die unless he steers right when braking? The car does not die anymore when he makes left turns. These are non power hydraulic single cylinder brakes so there is no vacuum connection involved. The fuel filter and pump have been replaced.
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My AC clutch will not engage until the engine gets hot enough to call for the radiator cooling fan to switch on, which in moderate weather at highway speeds can be forever. (Single electric cooling fan.) Of course, the AC should override the engine coolant sensors and turn on the fan and engage the clutch. Once the engine is hot, the AC works normally. No one seems to know where to start looking. It's an '03 Grand Marquis with an interceptor engine package.
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The trunk latch on my 2009 Mercury Marquis is malfunctionng. It sometimes will close OK, then at other times it will not, and then it requires that I hit the trunk button on the car remote button to make ithe latch close. I have tried WD-40 on it, but it still does not work OK. The Ford dealer said that I need a new latch installed at a cost of $265! Can I buy a new lacth (ca. $45) and install it myself, or does it require any special tools or a reset of the car's onboard computer?
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2011 Ford Taurus with 4000 miles. Car, at times, will pull to one side when brakes applied. Dealer could find nothing wrong first time(no cost). Second time they found that the "rear pads stuck in brackets on both sides. removed calipers brackets and pads and did full clean and reassembled". Third time road test found "no pull". "checked on ramp, all brakes seem fine, all free and moving properly. No problem found.". Road test with technician found slight vibration in steering wheel when braking but no pull. Technician says an uneven or slanting street could cause car to pull. Never heard of this before (my other car is fine on the same roads & streets). Is this a possibility as a cause of my problem?
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I was noticing this morning, that my left front and right rear windows didn't work. Also each of my two side mirrors would only adjust to the left but not to the right. When I try to do the non-working windows the dome light would dim a little bit when I push the button, but no sound or anything.
This is an intermittent problem. They usually work, but sometimes they don't.
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I have a 1997 Ram 1500 when I apply the brakes the truck pulls to the left for a spit second then goes straight.
Example: doing about 40 MPH take hands off the wheel and slam on the brakes, truck pulls immediately to left, like I did a quick lane change then goes straight.
About a month ago I replaced a section of brake line going to left rear wheel.
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02-F150-4.2L-102k. Truck was rolling down the road at approx. 35 to 40 mph. A speed bump/table appeared out of nowhere and was hit before beeing seen. Immediately since this event, the truck pulls to the left while applying the brakes. It pulls very hard and is fine while rolling down the road. Is there some damaged steering component or did one of the calipers go out from the jolt?
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1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
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I'm having several problems, and I'm wondering if they are related: Sometimes the heat/ac/vent blows on the windshield instead of where they are supposed to be. Occaisionally it works at first, and then changes after a few minutes to blow onto the windshield.
Sometimes I get a buzzing sound under the hood. Usually when I'm stopped, but sometimes while moving. The car idles high when this happens. If I tap the accelerator, this usually stops the noise and the idle drops to normal.
This morning, the brake warning light kept coming on while using the brake. The fluid level and pedal are OK, and the car stops OK. Then the buzzing sound came on, the engine light came on, and the brake warning light went out at the same time. The brake light hasn't come on since. The scanner tool indicates the IAC was running too fast.
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Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
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My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
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I have a pedal pulsation, steering wheel shimmy, and pull to the right when the brakes are applied in my truck. It is a 2009 F250 4x4 gas V8. I just replaced the pads, rotors, and calipers on the front and that's when the problem started. It definitely gets worse with speed too. I replaced the calipers because the right one had seized up and the left one looked to be on the way. There are no odd noises and the wheel bearing doesn't feel like there is any play in it. What this could be?
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I have a 1989 mercury tracer. The starter was just replaced and the the car started and ran fine for 3 days. Then when the car was switched on but not running after about 5 minutes, the car started itself, without touching or moving the key. Now whenever it is switched to the on position the starter goes on, and never goes off. The last time I drove it before this, after it ran for about an hour, I think the starter may have gone on, when I was a few minutes from parking it, because it started to make a lot of noise. the next day when I was checking it is when the starter engaged and started the motor with the key on but the car not running.
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So earlier today when I tried to start my car it wouldn't start! I tried cranking her over twice and I got nothing. The battery gage needle didn't move when I tried starting her up the few times. What's weird is that I took my other car (parents) out to run the errands I needed to run and when I got back I thought to myself "well maybe the battery is dead and needs to be jumped" that makes sense right? So as I pull up next to my car I decided to try starting her one last time and when I put the key in and cranked her over she started right up! Not a stutter or anything! So I'm left with the feeling that maybe it could be a failing alternator ? Or possibly a loose cable or something ?
Btw the car is a '98 Mercury Grand Marquis.
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2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
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THE PROBLEM: The Power Locks, Trunk Release and Power Windows Lock on my 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis have stopped working altogether. They don't work with either the key remote or the actual control panel in the car itself. So the only way to open the car or trunk is the old fashioned way, with the key. SO FAR...I've tried replacing the fuse - a 20 Amp CB - on the fuse panel, but it had no effect. What's my next step?
A LITTLE BACKGROUND: Recently a different key remote stopped working for this same issue. I tried replacing the battery in the key remote, but it had no effect. So I began using my spare key remote and it worked fine for about a week. But during this time the control panel in the car still worked properly. Now nothing works. Not sure if the other remote's issue was related or not to what's wrong now.
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