Plymouth :: 1966 - Installing Power Steering - Changing Rusted Floor Panels
Nov 11, 2014
I have a 1966 Plymouth Fury 2, and I have a few questions regarding fixing this up.
These cars had the option of having power steering, however, the original owner when purchased did not want that feature. I was curious as to how much trouble it would be to add power steering to my car. It's not that hard to drive with no power steering, but the steering wheel is massive and I imagine it would have to be to be able to move into tight spots at slow speeds. Also, though, driving with ease would be a plus, and not accidentally elbowing my woman in the face when I make a turn would be a plus as well.
The floor panels are rusted, which is normal for older cars. But, is there a way to repair this that doesn't involve welding? Is there a site online that specializes in older car parts?
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hey haven't been on this forum since I had my 1995 f150 (miss that strait sixer). Here is my question I bought a 2001 ford f150 supercrew with rusted rocker panels a year ago now there gone I have some tube steps attached wondering what the panel is that they attach to cause that seems pretty rusty as well and wondering if there is anyway of replacing it and if so where can I find it? I found all kinds of the outer rocker but not that inner rocker? if that is what you call it.
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1994 Plymouth Sundance Duster (4 door, automatic transmission) with 97K miles.The power steering fluid leaks every now and then, and sometimes I have to fill it twice in a week. There is some fluid leaked onto the ground.1. What possible causes could these be? (How to diagnose the problems?) and how much might it cost to repair? 2. I need to drive the car ~2,000 miles from Chicago to LA in August. What major checks do I need to do before the roadtrip to ensure a worry-free ride? (I need to fix the A/C for sure). Also, is this car able to haul a U-Haul trailer (5' x 8' in size) with household goods worth a small studio apartment?
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07 Camry LE USA built. The front line that goes down behind the radiator then towards the rear under the engine has started leaking at the bottom of the horseshoe bend. The bottom is rusted and leaking. Is there a temporary fix for this? Part is not available from the local parts stores.
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Ok, my next job is replacing a very rusty power steering pump, don't want and unplanned failure. (06 f150 5.4 XLT)
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info on changing the drive and power steering belts. I recently changed them on a 2003 Echo and took some pictures.
There are 2 belts on the Echo engine. A drive belt and a power steering belt. In order to remove the power steering belt you must, first, remove the main drive belt. If changing one it may be best to change both.
First remove right front wheel. Use jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on a jack to hold it up. Next remove the passenger side front bumper cover. I feel it best to remove the cover as then you can do a test drive before enclosing everything. You can, if you wish, just lower cover to give access to the drive belts. With the cover removed, check the power steering pulley and make sure that you have access to the adjusting bolt. This bolt is accessed thru an opening in the pulley. See last picture.
Here are 2 pictures of the bumper cover installed and removed.
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Yesterday the power steering exploded on our 2008 Lexus RX 350 spewing power steering fluid all over the under carriage of the car and the garage floor. Left a trail every where we went. The loss of fluid caused the power steering to quit working. I had no prior signs of any leaks of any kind and no noise or symptoms from the steering prior to this. Had this happened on the highway at speed, I don't know what could have happened.
Loss of steering and the catalytic converters covered in oil could have resulted in a fire and or wreck. I see on line that power steering leaks seem to be a problem with many Lexus models. I have heard that a screen/filter in the power steering solenoid can clog causing the pressure in the system to go sky high blowing the rack seals. Some have said that by cleaning the filter and flushing the system that the problem can be solved without having to replace the rack and pinion.
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I have a ford f350 2000 7.3 powerstroke. I changed out the powrstwering hose because there was no powersteering. now my brake pedal is easy to push and don't have brakes. Reservoir stays full so I'm not leaking any.
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I've done all the fluid but the power steering and the coolant. I'd like to change out the power steering fluid in my 08' F350. What fluid do I need ?
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Ok have and 2001 excursion v10 auto the make good heat but when you start to like climb a hill it alternates between the floor and defrost then when you knoll the hill it goes back to the vent heat. I guessing a vacuum problem.
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I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS with approx 60,000 miles. Recently, without fail, a buzzing sound occurs when changing the vent control knob from floor to vent and vice versa. The sound lasts for about 2 seconds and sounds like it may be coming from the area behind the steering column. All the climate control systems work fine and the buzzing noise only occurs when changing the vent setting. At this point it is just a nuisance as everything seems to be working fine, but in my searching of the forums can not seem to pinpoint what the issue may be.
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I have a Volvo P1800 I am restoring. The problem I have is the brakes don't work. The brake peddle does to the floor so I think and have read that this is due to the master brake cylinder. I removed the to of the master reservoir and found it is bone dry but the main reservoir is full? Why this is if the seals have failed surely there would still be brake fluid in the master reservoir???
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I lose power in my 97 Plymouth Breeze when driving up hills. Drives fine everywhere else but I lose power going uphill. Replaced the plugs and wires.
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My 1992 Plymouth voyager 3.0 looses power when it gets hot I put a straight pipe thinking it was the catalytic converter and still doing the same thing also it backfires
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the blinkers keep working and not working now they aren't of course.. but the left one only worked then something happened and the left only stayed on (not blinking) when the head lights were on. then it switched now they don't turn on at all. the fuses are good the relay is good all the wires are good I got new bulbs in as well and pointers. it's a Pontiac starchief 1966 and the flasher is good
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The 289 V-8 of my 66 Mustang was rebuilt and now runs very hot. I have difficulty starting it whether cold or hot?
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I have a 1991 Grand Voyager 3.3liter AWD minivan. It only has 80k original miles on it. It works totally fine sometimes, and then for no apparent reason, begins to lose power, as if it's not getting fuel. I can put my foot into the accelerator hard and it will likely correct itself in a few miles. If the cruise control is on, it will lose power...then regain it....then lose it....and so on, for many miles. The problem does not happen every time I drive, but most times. I have changed the fuel pump twice. each time it seemed fixed, but then the problem comes back. Most recently, It quit altogether, and I had to be towed home. I can start it now with starting fluid, but i suspect the fuel pump is out again. Another strange aspect of the problem is that this is my 2nd 1991 voyager, and the first had the same identical problems. I use it as a delivery van, and need to get it reliable...I've considered the ASD relay, or the fuel pump relay. I changed the fuel filter today to no avail. It currently won't start without ether.
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My car will start up but wont idle when it idle it starts to die and gas just overflows thee carb and the motor slowly dies. Its a 1966 pontiac starchief with a rochester carb and 421....
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Just got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
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My oil pan has rusted through and is beginning to leak. Can replace a 7.3L oil pan without pulling the engine? It looks like if I remove the turbo and fan clutch, I should have enough clearance to lift the engine several inches and get the pan to clear the crossmember. Or would it be easier to just pull the engine?
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