1993 Plymouth Voyager LE 3.3 V6 Automatic. Bogging down when entering an incline, keeps running in idle, will bog down, if dropped in low it will take off, sometimes backfires. Runs very good when on level ground. What can it be, mechanics suggest fuel pump, transmission, had it checked out by my mechanic and the fuel pump is fine, doesn't seem to be the transmission either.
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
I am fairly new to this stuff but I just got a 85 Ranger 4x4 and its running pretty rough it will be fine then all of a sudden it will bog right out and want to stall so I have to keep my foot planted on the gas and it pops and spudders and eventually runs normal again? Its a 2.8 V6 carb...
View 14 RepliesI have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
My 2004 Chev Aveo has recently developed a strange misfire pattern. I am hoping to get some clues before I take it to a mechanic. It only misfires when at an idle and then again between 50 and 55 mph going up an incline. Above 55, it runs fine. Between 5 and 50, it runs fine. It has 109,000 miles and had the timing belt changed at 90,000. What would be causing this?
View 4 RepliesTo start I drive a mliv 1.8t jetta. The car has a stage II custom tune, a turbo back exhaust straight piped, and a splitter valve. The valve cover gasket, spark plugs and coil packs, rear o2 sensor (with a 42dd spacer as well) were all changed recently to try and stop my problems from reoccurring. Also the MAF sensor was cleaned too, but was not very dirty. The problem tends to cease when I delete the codes and it has to relearn the fuel mapping. When the check engine light comes back on, the problems re occur. The code thrown is catalytic converter below threshold, but i have no cats. What happens with my car is, when the car is fully warmed, the car has a rough idle, to where it sounds like a heavy duty diesel truck when idling, the car will shake from the vibrations, when i go to start moving, the car bogs down to where it feels like it will stall, but it will buck and shoot off. Also when driving the car randomly bogs down, but then will shoot off will power! Sometimes at idle when its bad, if i tap the gas, the car will back fire very loudly.
View 3 RepliesMy mom has a 2011 GL Hatchback about 20k km's... She decided to take my car this Saturday without telling me and I was stuck with hers.... All of a sudden the check engine comes on and at idle there is like a bogging going own. (Shaky putt-putt-putt-putt) early acceleration is lacking power and it smooths out at higher rpm's.
I can do minor things on my own like plugs and brakes, I would love to be able to get it running smooth again.
I am having problems with my Prius. I have a 2011 prius with 145000 miles. I also have issues with the engine shakes initial idle and goes away with check engine light saying 2 & 4 misfire. Also I had a couple off issues where I was at a dead stop and when I accelerate the engine would feel like it Boggs and shakes from 0-20 mph then go away after. From 20-80 mph it's perfectly fine.
View 2 RepliesI just bought a 2002 Accent L 5sp with 37,000 miles. It ran great for a couple hours, then started hesitating/bogging over half throttle. I also noticed the idle was a bit high at this time. Suspecting a dirty throttle position sensor, I repeatedly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor for 15 seconds with the engine off.(this will sometimes clean gunk off the contacts inside the tps) I drove the car again, and now the symptoms changed. Now it has a hesitation under half throttle, and accelerates cleanly above that. Car has not and is not misfiring. I am on the right track with the tps sensor here?
View 8 RepliesI have a 98 with the 4.2.The troubles started with popping a little through the exhaust ,bogging down and bucking,rough idle and had the two codes together that deal with having bad intake gaskets don't remember the codes offhand.
I also noticed every plug in the truck was wet and black however it didn't appear oil wet.I have changed the fuel filter,spark plugs,lower intake gaskets,plenum gasket ,injector o rings,checked injector ohms all were 16.5,new EGR gaskets,all bolts are torqued to specs
Now I have a no run condition, it will crank but not run. I heard a pop in the engine one time. I cranked till the battery went dead.I also noticed as I was calling it a day last night the radiator reservoir was empty. I don't know if somehow I got a hydro lock even though I put new intake gaskets in it or i have some other issue like timing or something. I don't know where to look next....
I own a 1987 Plymouth Horizon, 70, 000 miles on it. Long story short, The car sat for 3 years without being driven. It would just be started up whenever the other owners wanted to. I have fixed a lot of its problems, and replaced tires, brakes, hoses, belts etc.. Problem I am having is when itis started up it is at a very high idle and will not allow you to kick it down till it warms up or it idles down on it's own after being warm. I have sprayed carburetor cleaner around the linkage and so on but it still does it. What could be causing it?
Like I said the car sat for 3 years and did have gas in it when I bought it and not being able to drain out the old gas I put HEET gas-line antifreeze & water remover in it. The fuel filter has been changed out twice. Once you get it on the road it runs like a champ for being 24 years old. It's just the high idle when you first start it up. The owner of it had some little quirks I guess you would say. He had and they are still there, two clothes pens on the gas rail/line and they were there because of vapor lock. They are located on two different parts of the line I guess to balance it out. Now I don't know if this is true or how even remotely possible two clothes pens could have anything to work with vapor lock. Now I do know that on occasion it will run a bit and stop when you cut off the engine, though not all the time....
I have a 95 neon SOHC that drives with a very high Idle. Not all the time, but 85% of the time witch i find strange. This has been going on for the better part of a year and the car is almost undrivable. Its putting a hurting on my breaks for sure.
I had replaced the PCM 5 years ago. Replaced the timing belt 2 months ago. I have searched all around for vacuum leaks but am not able to find anything. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it very well. I replaced the IAC.
The car continues to idle out of control as if the IAC is wide open. The only way to get the car to idle correctly is to cover the idle hole in the throttle body 90% up with my finger. The guy at Auto Zone said if its not IAC or vacuum hoses, then I should start replacing sensors. How do I diagnose this problem?
Noticed the past weeks its hard shifting out of 1st and entering 2nd, not noticeable in 3-6. It clears up as the car warms and after cycling through the gears a few times at operating temp the problem goes away. Ive heard of the notchy shifting due to cable adjustment but thought it was strange its not continuous in my case. Cold weather maybe? Today it almost felt as it would not pull out of first and took way too much effort shifting to 2nd.
6sp manual.
We have owned our 07' since it was new and have performed regular maintenance per the owners manual. We are at 105,000 miles and I've noticed a subtle surging sensation when entering the highway with my foot flat on the accelerator.
Looking at the MFD, I see both the engine and motor supplying power continuously during the surging sensation. When this occurs, the batteries are never "low". They always show 5-8 bars of charge. I tuned the car with factory plugs, air filter and PCV valve, but that did not work. The sensation only seems to occur at wide open throttle and is undetectable at lower acceleration or at standard highway speeds. I'm happy to ignore the issue, but am curious what might be going on...
Just reading up on Optima Yellow Top batteries and issues for Prius owners. We installed one about two years ago. Doing some of the tests mentioned online, like engine in run position, but not running yields a battery voltage of 11.9. Out of spec, I think. Engine running = 14.1v.
In the early AM I am driving with the heat on full blast, you can feel it is blowing HOT air and engine is fully warm.
However it feels that through the glove box, shifter, and other spots on the passenger side I am getting lots of cold air entering the cabin.
Thus taking longer for cabin air to overcome the hot heat blowing out. (this is not a thermal test I swear!)
Where the air could be coming in? Is AC somehow on to cool glovebox?
The only light that comes on when entering the car is the dome light. Do the map lights not come on when entering the car? Very irritating. All of our past/present vehicles have the feature of all interior lights coming on before starting.
I have a 2015 Camry SE (non moon roof). If in fact the maps lights don't automatically come on when entering the car, can another map light fixture from a higher trim level be used instead? Or is this just a Camry thing.
How do you avoid air (fresh??) thru closed vents? I switched the a/c off and cold air was coming in thru the closed vents. Then I turned the fan on, the vents open and I put it in Economy with the air coming from the upper panel (windshield), then shut off the fan and the vents closed. But cold air was still coming by the "closed" vents. How do you avoid that?
View 23 RepliesI searched but did not find a post about entering diagnostic mode of Prius 2010. Is that possible at all?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2012 Santa Fe and during the last cold spell, both myself and passenger felt a lot of very cold drafts entering the car through the door handle and door switches.
View 3 RepliesMy 1998 Acura RL just shut off while entering the garage. The engine shut off, and the battery and engine lights remained on. An attempt to restart the car without taking the key out of the ignition did not work (no sound). Taking the key out of the ignition and restarting it worked like normal.
Occasionally the car makes a loud sound right after starting, which resembled a cross between a honk and a grinding sound. I'm not sure if this is related.
I would rather the car not stop mid-drive on a busy street or the highway.
So I got my C 4 and couldn't be happier. Now, the wife wants a few things extra... Remote start for the A/C or heat a few minutes before entering the car and alarm.
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