Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Stuck In 4x4 Low
Oct 29, 2014
Have a 97 Explorer 4x4. lately when I start the truck it has shifted itself into 4x4 low. I had disconnected the battery for a few minutes, re-connected and the truck was back in auto. This no longer works and it is stuck in 4x4 low. Mechanic wants to replace transfer case encoder, but says more diag needed after to replacing encoder motor to determine internal failure and may need more work. Can I simply have the 4x4 low disengaged manually?
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My 1994 Explorer is stuck in 4 low. None of the lights are on in the dash or at the switch. I got the switch out & with a test light running I have weak power at the top left terminal better power at the 2nd, 3rd &4th on the right. No power on the opposite terminals. Is my switch bad or do I have a different problem. Also how do you remove the switch from the dash vent ?
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Okay here is my issue : I have explorer 98 v6 4.0L 4wd .. I changed my transfer case with the shift motor because the old one was making noise and grind .. I put a good used and tested transfer case but once i started the car to test it I noticed its feels loke stuck in 4 low ..
I parked the car and switched it to 4wd Hi. The light of 4wd hi came ON in the dash. Then I put the shifter in Neutral and moved the switched to 4wd low but the light of 4wd hi stayed ON never seen the 4 low light in the dash. I'm so confused and disappointed now. Even with the old bad transfer case it was fine other than the noise the transfer case making.
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After using the 4wd it's not going back into 2wd,the 4wd lo light is on and I dont hear the "click" when turning the switch. I've had the truck several years so I know how the 4wd works,is there a fuse or something else to try?
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Need to find vacuum hoses, a/c is stuck on defrost.
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My explorer is stuck in 4wd and no 4wd light is on. How can I get it out. Coz its hard to drive?
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I have an '92 Explorer 4X4 with a stuck emergency brake. I have tried tugging on the lines from the back of the truck (where the line splits into two beside the frame). The brake is stuck in the on position, and when I pull the release nothing happens. It has been cold here lately, so i thought they were frozen, but after pulling the release lever, it seems like a mechanical issue.
Any temporary solution that get my truck drive-able and to my mechanic for a closer look. I am not very mechanically inclined but it seems to me that the release lever is pulling at nothing and not moving the cog to release the actual emergency brake.
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A friend of mine at work has a 93 4wd explorer. A4ld transmission. Reverse quit working, and no matter what gear you put it in, reverse, neutral, or park, it will stay in drive. Park holds itself, but if you give it gas, it tries to pull. He says when it's in reverse, it's almost like it's stuck in reverse and forward, it wants to rock. He pulled the pan, no metal shavings, and pulled the valve body. He said the screws holding the valve body were finger tight. The gasket underneath had a small tear in it, he doesn't know if he did this pulling it out or not. He replaced those gaskets and retorqued the valve body. When he put it in reverse and topped off fluid, reverse worked. He put it in drive and it worked, but when he put it back in reverse, it stayed in drive and is staying in drive in all gear selections again. He bought this explorer new, and the transmission had never been into before.
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'98 XLT 4.0 SOHC.
First of all overdrive started to play up, the engine would flare as it went into OD and often would have several goes at it until it engaged OD. Finally it wouldn't go into OD.
Still driving it around for awhile then it went into limp home mode - stuck in 3rd gear. What it might be?
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I was pulling into my driveway. I put the car in park, but when i went to get out of the car, it started to roll forward. When I finally got it stopped, I tried to shift it, and it wouldn't shift to any spot. Then it became stuck in between Park and Reverse. I can't move the gear shift.
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I have noticed when I turn the key on the needle moves down just a touch but goes back to full. I have disconnected the wiring harness for the fuel tank and reconnected it. I have tried tracing the harness back towards the front but no luck yet. I'm guessing it's a bad ground or something. And if so what was the solution.
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I just picked up another 2003 XLT and I'll be taking it in for inspection on Monday. Hoping it will pass easily, but there are a couple issues I'd like to address before going in there.
First and foremost, the heat/AC system is stuck in defrost. It will turn off when the selector is moved to the OFF position, but any other position just makes the air blow out the top of the dash. I did do some research on this beforehand (the seller made me aware of it) and I first looked at the actuator. When moving between positions, the actuator does not move at all. It does appear to be connected to the vent door's arm but there's no movement when going around the dial. I do hear what seems to be a relay kick on or off as I go through the different modes, but that's it. Does this point more towards a vacuum issue?
Second, and less significant...the self-dimming rear view mirror doesn't dim. It doesn't even power on. Where might the connection go for that mirror? Would be handy to have for night driving, but not that big of a deal if it's not functioning.
I'm also going to have to get the tailpipe mounted...seems it came off at some point and the seller asked me today if I wanted it. Uh...yeah, I'm gonna need that to pass inspection!
I am liking it so far. Runs well, rides well...I will be enjoying this one as well.
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I had been waiting to fix my explorer for a long time. The "previous owner" I will call him knowingly sold me a vehicle with a bad tranny without disclosing it... long story. To get to the important part, it had the common 2/3 shift flare. I dropped the pan, filter, and valve body, making sure to use a template and put the bolts where they go. Then i took the valve body to the work bench and replaced the gasket, which was surprisingly not blown. After more looking around, I realized the previous owner had already had the fix done. I tightened the EPC 1/4 turn and reassembled the tranny. When i started it, it was stuck in first gear. PRN21 all went forward (park just revved a bit due to the park lockout.)
I tore it back apart and found that the plunger on the side of the valve body was stuck in the 1st gear position. I pushed it back out and cleaned it up so it moved freely. Then I reassembled the tranny using new fluid again.
After that the tranny was stuck in neutral. I dropped the pan again today, and tightened the valve body bolts and made sure my solenoids are tight. Filled it back up slowly with the engine running. It shifted into gear for a second (tried to go forward while it was in reverse though). Then it was again stuck in neutral in all the gears again.
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Last night while driving, my transmission made a pretty severe clunk, but then appeared to act normal. However, a check engine light came on so I pulled over immediately as I was literally at the entrance to a gas station.
I looked under the vehicle, under the hood, saw nothing leaking, nothing obviously broken etc. So got back in and started the engine, went to shift into reverse and the transmission clunks, same going from N into D.
I limped it home, but while driving noticed that it was not shifting but stuck in one gear.
This morning I scanned for codes and the only one showing is P0770 Shift Solenoid. I searched this forum though and get 0 results on that code, searching Google is also surprisingly vague. I believe (could be wrong though) that I have the 6R60 Transmission, it is a 2008 Explorer with the 4.6L V8.
Where to check first? When I get time I am going to check the fluid level, but could not last night as there is no dipstick!
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Was replacing the struts and front ball joints on my wife's '04 Explorer last week. I get to the last one (driver's side front) and the lower strut bolt seems to be frozen to the bushing. I heated it up and beat on it a little bit. Nothing. Just wondering for some other way or am I going to have to cut it out?
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 My temperature gauge is stuck in the middle whether the car is off/idling/driving. I am wondering whether this could possibly be an issue with my coolant temp sensor/sender, or wiring.. Or since its just stuck there, would it be the gears of the actual gauge..
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I am working on my grandmother's 2002 explorer and it is stuck in 4wd. I have unhooked the plug that goes to transfer case and also took out the 4wd fuses and still stuck in 4wd. From what I have read on here that the electromagnet inside tc usually fails and does not engage or if the control fails unhooking it will make it so the front drive shaft is disengaged. So since my problem is still there after that it has to be the tc itself and should I replace tc or put a new clutch in it. Also can i take the driveshaft out it looks like behind the coupling is a slipyoke so the coupling would fall out.
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My parents 2000 Explorer is having issues...It started with check engine light...came back to Oxygen sensors...Replaced all 4....light came back...still a couple of same codes...P1151 and P0153...smoked the intake with Evap Leak Detector...have several small vacuum leaks...little at EGR (No EGR codes)...little at TPS (No TPS Codes)...Little at throttle shafts...and some coming from what looks like underneath throttle body....none of these are as much of a concern as the next thing....NOW the trans will not shift out of 1st...unless you manually shift it from Drive to 2nd...then no other gears...Reverse works fine.....
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2003 Ford explorer 4.0 L automatic, Cannot remove key from ignition, key does not appear to be turning back completely to position 1. The buzzer continues going off even if all doors closed...
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I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 as my winter vehicle. The car only has 92,000 miles on it. I test drove it, and it seems to run great! The only issue (visibly) with the car is that the rear drivers side door is stuck. There is a dent below the door handle, and the door will not open from the inside of the car, or from the outside. The dent does not look major, and it seems to me that if I can get the door open, I could repair the latch/locking mechanism.
I don't want to buy the car if the only way to repair the door is to spend a ton of money at a body shop. Below are the pictures of the outside of the door. Hopefully the image links work.
I think it is the locking mechanism that is broken. The dent isn't causing the door to be stuck. The power door locks work, and I can manually lock/unlock the rear door. However, even when unlocked, the door will not open from inside or outside the vehicle. It's as though the door is "stuck" because the lock doesn't disengage.
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I have a friend with a 96 4.6 4x4. He tried to put a new starter. He couldn't figure out how to get it out! So I got called out. I can barely get under this dam thing. I'm lost on how it comes out. It stuck by oil pan and front diff housing. It not much that I'm stuck by 1/4" at most.
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