Today I noticed that our 5R110 was delaying slightly when shifting from drive to reverse. It was probably about a 1-2 second delay but it replicated itself twice in a row. There was no delay going from reverse to drive. It is just an engagement delay. We are running a Superchips Heavy Tow tune on the truck, it is a 2006 6.0 Powerstroke.
View 4 RepliesWell it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
I have a 08 6.4l F250SD. At 127k miles, it has been a great truck. All service has been performed by dealer. When I shift from Park into drive there is a 3-5 second delay, and when it drops into drive the truck rocks. Once driving there are no shift issues. Into reverse there are no issues.
View 14 RepliesOk I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
I have a 1999 F250 super duty that blew a front seal on the transmission two weeks ago. I sent it to a shop and they replaced the seal, and torque converter. However when they put it back in it will not engage in drive or reverse. After working on it several days we replaced the transmission with another one from a service company. This replacement came with a 90 day warranty. However once it was installed it does the same thing and will not engage in drive, or reverse. I am not sure what is going on but with two doing the same thing it makes me thing maybe electrical or something else.
View 1 RepliesI purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
One of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
View 6 RepliesI continuously read that people with 6.2 F250s averaging 13 mpg or so in a combination city/highway driving. This 2014 4x4 barely has enough power to move itself (honestly, I'd rather have my Ram 1500 back) and barely gets 10mpg. Basically have to give it about half-pedal to even get up to freeway speed and floor it if i want to pass anything. Is it just that much of a POS or does this not sound right? Other than a massive "clunk" sound when shifting from reverse to drive or vice versa, no indication of any problems.
View 14 RepliesI have a delay when I put my truck into gear. It only happens when I have turned the truck back on. It happens in forward as well as reverse. What is causing this? Syncros?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000, F250, 7.3, automatic with 220,500 miles. When I purchased my truck used in 2008 (173,000 miles), i had the transmission rebulit by a ford dealership. Okay my problem is now that the weather is cooler here in Texas, when I back out of my parking spot in the morning, it takes several seconds for my truck to engage into drive. The rest of the day it works fine, only first thing in the morning. No problems driving (shifting) during the day.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 F450 6.0 Super Heavy Duty. The Problem that I am having is when I turn the key it wont crank over. In order for it to start I have to hold the key in the crank position (like i am trying to start it) for about 20+ seconds, and then it will start cranking over. After it cranks over it starts just fine no problems. This only occurs when I start the truck up for the first time each day. After the initial start of the day its fine. (FYI I turn the ignition to the on position and just let it set it still takes me turning the key to the crank position and holding it 20+ seconds).
View 5 Replies2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
View 5 RepliesI bought this Ex a little over a month ago and finally got around to replacing some stuff.
I have a slight vibration between 50 and 60 MPH. The vibration is the same weather I am accelerating, in Neutral, Coasting down (well, a little bit worse when coasting down), in 2WD, in 4WD, turning, going straight, hot or cold.
I have replaced the following:
Rear Driveshaft U-Joints
Tires and Rims
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Wheel Bearings
Steering Stabilizer
Cleaned and Greased the Hubs
Greased everything greasable up front
I still have the exact same vibration as when I started. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel as well as in the body of the vehicle. I am thinking that it may be in the steering linkage. If there is a loose joint then the wheels would be allowed to jiggle a little bit. I am at a loss. What else should I check?
Also, When doing the ball joints, I noticed that the tie rod ends were quite stiff. How stiff should these be? I can't move them by hand, but they will move a little bit when moving the free end of the tie rod.
I am taking it in for an alignment on Friday, and if I can't figure this vibration out, I might have them take a quick look into it. Would a stuck slide pin in the front brakes do this? Both sides on my truck are seized at the current moment.
New, 2 month old 2015 CC, gas 4x4 with standard bed. At 50-55 I have a rolling vibration, or it can even be explained as a slight growl. Seems worse since I upgraded to 285/75/18 Toyo AT's and new wheels. If i speed up to about 60, goes away. If I pop it down to 5th gear, it seems to go away, however, I need to try this a few more times to make certain.
View 9 RepliesI have an 08 F250 supercab 5.4L that I bought this past July. The truck has 153000 miles on it now it had 150000 when I bought it. I don't drive it every day just usually on weekends and when I need the truck. The truck was really well maintained and had all the work done at a local ford garage. I live in western pa and lately it has been pretty cold and snowy so I have been using the 4x4 more than I normally would the past few days. My wife was driving the truck the day before yesterday and had it in 4x4.
The past 2 nights it has been really cold right around 0 degrees. I drove the truck yesterday and it just didn't seem right when I first drove it almost like there was a tire going flat or a flat spot with one of the tires. I got out and checked and everything seemed ok but it was still doing that. I saw that the passenger side hub was still locked while the drivers side was on auto and I was in 2 wheel drive. When I got home I sprayed the hubs down with PB Blaster and tapped on them with a rubber mallet. I put the truck back in 4x4 and drove it down my road to the end then put it back in 2 wheel drive and reversed down the road. When I got back into my driveway and checked the hubs were both in auto so all was good. T
he only thing now is when I am driving everything is normal but when I start to brake or decelerate I get a humming noise like you would get with off road tires on the highway. I wouldn't say that it is that loud but definitely noticeable and there is a vibration in the floor in the front along with the humming. When I am going really slow decelerating you can also hear a noise similar to if you would spin one of those wheels with the metal pegs at a carnival or something to win a prize.
Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
Just noticed today, while taking slight right turns 20-40MPH, I get a really loud and angry chirping sounds? Its only right turns...It sounds like a forest of angry crickets.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat crew cab FX4. It has an EGR delete, ARP studs, and the updated oil cooler. It has 138,xxx on the clock.
Randomly, only when it is at normal operating temperature it will have a slight shake to it at idle. when i try to take off from this shaky idle it feels like it is "missing" i guess you could say. it clears up about 1/8 a mile down the road every time. And i will go ahead and say this does not happen everytime it idles. Only maybe once or twice in a 30 minute trip.
What might be going on? I have not added a coolant filter yet, and it does not have synthetic oil in yet either (just bought it) I plan to use full synthetic Rotella 5w40 very soon. I think this might be a stiction problem? but i read it is uncommon to have stiction when warmed up. I do not have anything yet to pull codes or read the FICM yet. both batteries are good.
I have a 2001 Ford F-250 5.4L V8. 117,000 miles. The problem I have been relentlessly trying to diagnose is a slight bucking that occurs under load when the truck is in overdrive. When the truck bumps up to higher RPM's it is fine but when it is around 1500-1700 RPMs on the highway it does a small buck like I'm hitting a bump in the road. I know there are many threads on this but none of them have gotten me any closer to a resolution. It also seems to have a bit of power loss when accelerating. Things I have done so far.
-Spark plugs and COP replaced about 1000 miles ago
-New fuel filter
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned throttle body
-New PCV
-Seafoam treatment in gas and through brake booster.