2002 W8 Wagon Automatic with 55,000 miles. Second instance of Check Engine Light (MIL) in three months. Nothing wrong, supposedly. Dealer writeup says: "MIL checked and found sporadic codes in 46, 15 module, cleared codes and road tested, checked ok."
View 23 RepliesI have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
View 6 RepliesCheck engine light came on after a car wash yesterday. I'm sure there is nothing wrong with the car and i recently had an oil change done. i use full synthetic oil too and always get it done on time. Is there a way for me to clear the engine light myself?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Passat. How to reset my check engine light. I need to get it inspected and it won't pass inspection until the check engine light is not on. Last year I took it to a mechanic who could find nothing wrong with it but reset my check engine light for me and it cost $250. Is this something I can do myself? I've had the car since it was new and the check engine light has gone on and off periodically for the past 10 years.
View 10 Replies2002 Passat 2.8L... I am averaging 11.8 mpg in city driving I do not know what the problem is... My check engine light just came on fault P0114 something like that secondary air hose could this be the cause of me getting 11.8mpg and I use grade 91 and higher of gas...
View 6 Replies2002 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 98K miles.
Was driving home tonight and nearly didn't make it. A few miles down the road I hit the gas hard going up a hill but the Passat kind of lunged a little and lost a lot of power and the engine emblem starting blinking. Coasted down a hill and it stopped and all was well again. From here on I am going careful up hills and not accelerating too fast.
I drive about 30 miles, 10 miles to go and I have to pull a tall hill. Going up this hill the light starts blinking again and I lose most of my power, engine feels like its not hitting on all cylinders and the turbo must be out. Barely make it home going about 40 mph. My check engine light has been on for quite some time, in fact I have had reset about 6-8 times with replacing sensors, air mass meters, etc. Could this be the timing belt?
I am working on my friend's '02 Explorer 4x4 with 4.6L engine with 122k on it, the dash is telling him that he has low oil pressure. When it first came on he was an hour away from home, what he told me he did was pull over and checked his oil level right away. He found that it was still full and since the engine wasn't making noises he resumed his trip home. During the drive home he said the dummy oil pressure gauge would read normal then drop all of a sudden then come back up again after so long.
When he got back home he changed the sending unit plus the oil and filter and his Explorer still reads as if it has no oil pressure. The needle does not read anymore, he noted to me when he pulled the filter off it looked like it did not have the normal amount of oil inside it. I did not get to see it so I can not verify that. When he starts it it kind of sounds like it has to fill the filter every time like a fresh oil change, rattles around for a second then smooths out and sounds good..
So is his oil pump to blame for the light being on or is there something wrong with the gauge in the cluster? I have not hooked a mechanical gauge up to where the sending unit threads into so I don't know how much pressure it actually has. If not the oil pump what could be the cause? My other friend and I looked at the oil that came out of the new filter and we thought we saw metal specs in the oil. Is it new engine city time? It has such low miles to need an engine.
The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
View 1 RepliesAuto Zone checked for engine light and said I needed new gas cap. Have driven for over 75 miles and with at least a dozen start-stops with new cap and light is still on. I have a Tacoma 2002. What do I do next
View 9 RepliesI own a 2002 Volvo S40 Turbo with the following problem. Every now and then the "Check Engine" light comes on. Then, when I turn the ignition off, the car shakes violently for several minutes. Last time this happened, I took the car to the dealer, and the computer diagnostics came up with this message: ECM-44 MISSFIRE, EMMISSION LEVEL, FAULTY SIGNAL INTERMITTENT FAULT. What is wrong, and how it can be fixed?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 volvo S60 2.4T that I just had the check engine light come on so I pulled the codes and here is what I found,
PO403
PO611
P1378
P2623
So my question is what does this mean ? what is wrong ?
I have a 2002 4 cylinder Camry, and I've been having trouble with the EVAP test completing. I've been running the EVAP test to the letter, with no success, so I figure the problem might be dependent on something else not completing.
I used to get the occasional check engine light for loose gas cap. So a few days ago I intentionally left the gas cap VERY loose (it's essentially just sitting in the filler nozzle). But I'm not getting the check engine light. I think that the gas tank pressure test may not be running, and that may be why I can't get the EVAP test to complete successfully.
Conditions: The gas level is about 1/2 full, and the ambient temperature has been around 20-35 degrees F.
I'm having a hard time searching. Most search results deal with how to resolve the loose gas cap problem. The check engine light is not burned out... it comes on briefly when I start the car!
my 2002 chevy impala has had the check engine light on for a while now i took it to a shop and he said my engine was bad. I asked for the codes he got he said he just told me my engine was bad why do I need codes. I talked to another mechanic this week and he said he'd look at it, that it might not be that because I should of got a print out for what I paid for. SO I got a oil change today and when i left I saw in the comments that they put class 2 oil pan leak and a class 2 transmission leak. Could that be why my check engine light is on? How bad is a class 2 transmission leak?
View 10 RepliesEngine light came on two weeks ago. Had the code read at Advance Auto Parts. Code = P0420. The only performance issue was that it stalled when I started it the other day for the first time since I bought it last fall. Are there any other clues to tell what it could mean (catalytic converter vs. 02 sensor vs. anything else)? Is it really worth trying some kind of catalytic converter cleaner product?
View 1 RepliesI'm new to the VW world and just bought a 2002 Jetta 1.6SR about two weeks ago. I just realized that when I turn the ignition on before cranking, all the lights come up except the CEL and traction control light. There are no codes stored when we checked it with a scanner. I took apart the cluster today to check if someone had taped in front of the LED but there was nothing, and the LED was intact, it just won't light up! I put everything back together and when I turned the ignition on.
I realized that the traction control light came on for the first time but still nothing for the CEL. I turned ignition off and on again, this time both the traction control and CEL didn't come on. Whenever I unplug the cluster and install it again, the traction control light will come on once, then if I turn the ignition off then on again, it will stop working. I even removed the MAF sensor to test the CEL but it never came on! All the fuses are intact as well... So my question is, is this a faulty cluster, LED, or is something wrong with my ECU?
Check engine light on and code is P1451. I have been told its one or all four things:
1. Gas cap,
2. Evap Canister vent solenoid,
3. Evap purge solenoid,
4. Evap canister.
I am trying to fix this problem on the Taurus. I have changed the Gas cap and this did not solve the problem. The other three things on the list: Are these three separate things? Or are they part of the same thing?
It just so happens that I got my letter from the DMV telling me I needed to get my new tags, and this is an emissions test year for my car. I was buys the last few weeks so I figured this would be a good week to do it. Yesterday.......check engine light comes on. How does that happen???
So now I'm on a time crunch. I went to Advanced Auto this morning and they checked the code. It's P0440, an Evaporative Emissions code. Any thought on what that me be, or any checklist as to what to check first? I'm fairly handy, but know nothing about cars. I'm sure I can figure it out with some instructions.
Summary: Got a check engine code of P0440, Evaporative Emissions. On a time crunch because I need to get an emissions test done. I can probably fix it myself with some direction.
Car: Toyota Camry 2002 .. Mileage: 150K
Symptom:Check Engine light went on a few days ago.
Checked codes and got these (3):
1) P0420
2) P1310 and
3) P0420 P ("Pending" ?)
I also checked I/M Readiness and got these suspicious-looking values:CAT: NOT RDYEVAP: NOT RDYO2S: NOT RDYH02S: NOT RDY
NOTE all the other I/M values were N/A
Researching the Codes, it sounded like Ignition, and possibly the O2 sensor on the Catalytic Convertor. I had just had some engine work done by the dealer -- actually, replaced spark plugs -- so I figured to go back and bitch him out for screwing up my car.
A few days later, before I could engage my Rage, I went back and re-scanned. First I noticed the CEL was now OFF. Scanning, I now I get "NO CODES", and all the I/M values are now N/A; No more "NOT RDY".
What do you all make of this? Should I be concerned now that the CEL is Off, and I get No Codes with a scan?Or maybe I should take it to AutoZone for their free CEL diagnosis -- would their machine be more thorough than mine (Autel MaxioScan 300)??
I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
View 15 RepliesMy 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
View 8 RepliesCheck engine light issue. For the past 3 months, my check engine light has been turning on. The first time it happened, the garage replaced the EVAP Purge Solenoid (which includes the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid). Of course, a few months later, the check engine light turned on again. The second time, the garage replaced the gas cap. Then the check engine light turned on again the next day.
So, the third time, the garage performed maintenance/repair on the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Of course, three days after driving my car, the check engine light turned back on. I've contacted the garage for the fourth time now. I explained that their diagnostics have obviously been exhausted, and they aren't really sure what the problem is. I'm going back in a few days to speak to the lead mechanic hoping to be compensated for their guess-work or at the least to be given an honest "I don't know" answer.