Passat (B6) :: Dashboard Hidden Compartment Stuck - How To Push It Out
Apr 3, 2012
Alright, so this post may be entirely useless as I'm not really sure if there's a magic solution to my problem. I use the little compartments on the dash above the radio that push and slide out to hold loose change and I guess I may have overfilled one, because now it will not open at all. It doesn't push in anymore and I've tried sticking something through the tops and sides in order to try and force it to slide out, but no luck so far. I'd rather have it stuck and full of change than break anything. Is that any roundabout way to access it and push it out?
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The dealer showed us how to open these but we can't get them to open?! Is there a trick? The button doesn't seem to do anything.... New 2004 V8 owner....
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2007 Passat Wagon 2.0T automatic. We found an extra key in the car after we bought it and saved it, thinking we could use it as a spare. Of course, we rather foolishly never tried it. Last night, my wife tried the key and it is now stuck in the key slot. The message center on the dash is giving a warning that the car is now immobilized, and it won't give back the key! I called VW roadside assistance, and they refuse to touch it - insisting it be towed to a dealer.
Unfortunately, the first two tow trucks they they dispatched couldn't tow the car. The car is stuck in Park, nose-in to the garage, and the steering wheel locked. Roadside assistance now says they need to dispatch a truck with "skates" which allow it to be put on a flatbed.
What else I could do to remove the key? I tried removing the battery power for five minutes, but it still won't give back the key.
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Whenever I stop the car I push the P button, and the push the foot parking brake, then I stop the car with the start/stop button. Yesterday I started the car, and forgot to push off the parking foot brake. I put the stick on D and then I started to roll, after two seconds I saw the red lamp on the dashboard telling me there's a problem, so I check and to my surprise I saw that the break was on.
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I have a 2010 Prius Hybrid and lately, on an intermittent basis, I will press the brake pedal and push the start button and the dashboard lights up as normal but when I go to put it in gear nothing happens. The last time it happened the fan was running and I couldn't turn it off. It's like the car is all set to go but all the interior controls don't function. I then shut it off and restart it and everything works.
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I've a wired problem, my Elantra 2008 gas pedal is being stuck on the first push down only, when the car parked for more than 3 hours for example, the first press on the pedal i feel it very hard then it accept the pushing with a sound as if something is stuck and got released, after the first push it become very normal till i park it again.
I greased the pedal but noticed it may be the throttle cylinder at the engine where the gas wire is going around, i tried to accelerate the engine by turning this cylinder and it is being stuck at the first then is loosen, i tried it spray it with WD40 but it is the same.
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I was thinking about change my spark plugs on friday so today I went to check the ones the car have open the hood took the engine cover out and the ones on the sides, I see 6 wires 4 going to the left side(air intake side) and 2 going to the right side (where the oil fil cap is) so I say think this should be the spark plugs wires. I take one of the left side wires out and is cover in oil so I keep taking the other out one by one and all of them have a lot of oil I can't even see the sparks plugs. All the wires have numbers on top 1 to 6. I say this have to be the wires cause I don't see any other place where the plugs can be located at. The car is a 99 v6 fwd...
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After being to a dealership to set up alarm, i noticed that hidden menu bar wich appear when i put the finger close, doesn't work. Is there any option to turn on that function or something else could be a problem?
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The following day, the wagon didn't start in the shopping mall. Key in ignition, dash lights ignition on everything normal, push in to start, no response.
The battery's not the problem. The car was towed to a dealer by a very tired tow truck driver, it was unusually hot yesterday. Hottest August day we've ever had in history.
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Alright, my dad taken it to a mechanic, and guess what, it's still there. Only happens when the engine's warmed up. This is pretty much all I know, but it comes in through the a.c. and seems to come out of the engine compartment on the passengers side.
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I have a 2006 2.0t 6mt w/ 60k miles which I bought new. Ever since I can remember when I am stopped at stop lights or driving slowly (less than 10mph), i sometimes hear a knock knock knock coming from under the hood. It normally happens 8 times in a row, perfectly spaced (probably 1 thunk every second). It almost sounds like an electric valve or pump cycling/priming/purging. I would say that this 8 knock cycle happens just a few times a week. I have tried to capture the sound with my blackberry, but it is pretty quiet.
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Yesterday right after driving over a speed bump my car started smoking and the engine light flashed. it seemed of burning plastic. The part smoking is under the engine cover of the passenger side . it is a metal box with a plastic plug and looked to have "fins" the car also threw codes P301 and P2300. The car is a 2006 is this a coil.
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I have an 03 Passat Wagon, 2.8L V6. My wife is getting ready for a big drive tomorrow, about 13 hours. Right now after reaching the operating temperature and then shutting off the coolant is boiling. The temp gauge never goes beyond 190 so it is not overheating but it is getting really warm in the engine compartment.
History: I noticed a couple of days ago that the expansion tank was badly discolored and had some corrosion inside. I know it was because I inadvertently mixed the green stuff with it about 2 months ago. I know it was stupid, but that was before I realized how stupid. Yesterday I drained the coolant and flushed it about 4 times. I couldn't flush it completely because I couldn't get at the drain next to the transmission fluid pan. I just drained it from the front outlet.
I refilled the system by disconnecting the expansion tank and holding it up until fluid came out of the hole on the hose going into the firewall. Then I was going to bleed it from the bleeder screw in the rear coolant pipe (as listed in Haynes manual) but could not find it. I even have the photo in the book to guide me and it is not there. Since I couldn't find it I skipped to the bleeder valve by the serpentine belt. I bleed that and hooked it all back up.
Now my fluid boils. I know it isn't the expansion tank cap because I took the one from my Jetta and put it in and it does the same thing. I put the cap from the Passat in the Jetta and it doesn't cause that coolant to boil. After driving today for a half hour the engine compartment felt superheated. Even the fenders were hot to the touch. It is almost 90 outside but it still felt unusually hot in the engine compartment. I would like for my wife to drive this on her road trip instead of the Jetta, but I can't let her do that with this problem.
I think I must not have bleed the system very well. The heater works and the temp gauge never goes above 190.
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I hear clicking noise on my 2006 vw passat 2.0 T. The noise comes from the passenger side, sounds like it coming from under the glove department, but i cannot be exactly sure. It does clicking when i start the engine and after a minute it clicks .. ( about 5-6 clicks. not very loud but you can hear them. )
Also the clicking noise appears when I drive ... but it's hard to hear, and when i slow down or when i"m at the complete stop. It does not appears all the time, but randomly happens.
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Is there a convenient place to run hidden wiring from the back of the car to the front dash?
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I picked up a 2004 Prius with 150k. It has no check engine light and no codes with a scangauge. I hooked it up to a mini-vci with techstream and found the following: P3009-526, C1310 and B1421. The car will only start if you reset codes, then after a few minutes of running the red triangle comes back.
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How to enter the hidden diagnostic screen on a 2010 Gen III Type V with Nav?
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I am taking out the second seat in my 2001 Ex and I have all of the screws loose except for one that is kind of hidden on the side. How to get to it?
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For those with Climatronic, you would have probably heard the noise it makes when it's adjusting vents etc on start up....like a deep ticking of sorts. Well, just recently that same type of noise is coming from the rear compartment of the car and only when coming to a stop or sitting at a light.
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Routing a wire from near footwell lighting to engine compartment?
This thing is tight. No easy obvious places to get there.
Wiring under lighting to footwell as I did on my Tundra. Attached link. Want to mimic on the B7.
[URL] ....
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My car is: Passat 1.9 PDTDI, 2003,AVB(101HP)(200.000km). This is my first diesel car, I bought it two months ago. The car has poor power under 1800-2000rpm. I push the throttle full down and my car accelerate slowly. At 1800-2000rpm kick out and accelerate very fast, but over 3000rpm the car goes limp mode.
2 months ago i had the following error msg: 17965 charge pressure control positive deviation p1557 - 35-10 intermittent.
My turbo was cleaned. No limp mode,but poor power under 1800 rpm.
Now, I have this error msg again. I logged the block 11 with vag-com. The duty cycle is 94,4(2500rpm).
The EGR is disabled. What is the problem? MAP? MAF? Actuator? Turbo?
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