Ford - Ranger :: 1992 - Occasionally Hesitates When Beginning To Accelerate
Apr 5, 2014
My 1992 Ranger has a 2.3L 4cyl 100hp engine with 207k miles. It occasionally hesitates when beginning to accelerate but never when at idle or when driving at speed. I don't even know where to begin. The engine has had consistent maintenance and runs well otherwise. This hesitation makes me afraid that it will damage the drive train somewhere. I'd like to at least know what the problem is even if I can't fix it myself because I've done most of the work on the engine.
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My wipers are just beginning to rust. I'm either taping the truck and masking off the wipers but would rather take them off. I don't understand what is holding them in place. First post on my first Ranger that I just bought.
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In the last month or so I'very had trouble with my 2002 Explorer having trouble accelerating. When I take off from a light it hesitates badly. It feels like it's got air in the tank. It does it every time I need to accelerate, including coming around turns. I'very put in fuel injector cleaner and it works fine for a little while, but then has the same issue. Yesterday morning it wouldn't turn over in the morning. I changed out the battery, but I had a similar issue of not turning over. It eventually did. I was wondering if the two might be related. Could it be a fuel pump or fuel pump relay?
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I have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
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2009 Accent with 103K miles, which has been good to me so far. Over the past week or so, I've noticed that when I'm driving on the highway with the A/C on, the car occasionally hesitates, maybe every minute or two. I'm guessing this is from the A/C compressor cycling on and off, but it's never done this before. Does it seem like this is the beginning of the end for the compressor? Anything else it could be?
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The 2.8 V6 car sometimes hesitates when trying to accelerate. It even has what feel like 'misses' at idle. No codes except catalytic convertor below efficency bank 2. I suspect it could be a bad o2. I looked at vag com, 311-2 and found...
Group 32, Sen1 bank 1 oxygen sensor adpt.@idle 0.0%
Sen1 bank 1 oxygen sensor adpt.@par 0.8%
Sen1 bank 2 oxygen sensor adpt.@idle 0.8%
Sen1 bank 2 oxygen sensor adpt.@par 0.8%
Group 42 bank 2 50Kohm 0.10Kohm inner rest. Sensor 2
Group 41 bank 1 60Kohm 0.50Kohm inner rest. Sensor 2
What measuring blocks should I be looking at? Weird that the car is 'bogging' or 'hesitating' without a misfire being reported.
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
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I have a 1992 ford mustang 4 cylinder,its messed up bad.my car is shaking bad all the time and will not go faster than 40mph.what is wrong??
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I drove my car through a puddle, and right after that, my check engine light came on and it hesitates to accelerate. What could be the problem?
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I have a 92 Ford Thunderbird and it stalls every time I accelerate from a stop. I am a single parent and extremely low on funds. I don't have a mechanic that I trust so I don't know where to turn. How much do you think it would cost to repair? I also struggle when I don't have a car. There is no public transportation close to where I live.
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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Having a slight issue with my ranger. So I bought this truck out of a junkyard about a month ago, its a 94 4x4 with a 4.0 and a five speed. When I bought the truck the motor was blown so a few weeks ago i replaced it with a 4.0 from an aerostar van I had laying around. Right after I changed it the truck was running good with no issues, until a few days ago going to work the truck started hesitating going up a hill. Now the truck does it all the time, sitting at idle the truck runs smooth as silk, at half throttle it does it the worst but when you mash the peddle to the floor it clears up and runs good.
So far I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil pack, mass air sensor, throttle position sensor, and the fuel pressure regulator to try and fix it but nothing has worked. I've checked the fuel pressure it has 30 at idle and 40 with the vacuum hose pulled off of the regulator, I even taped the gauge to the windshield and went for a ride and there was no drop in pressure when it started acting up. a few other things i have done were plugged all the vacuum ports to rule out a leak, reset the computer and checked for codes. the only code that came up was 522. So I think my next step is going to be buy new oxygen sensors ? But my question is wouldn't the check engine light come on if it was an oxygen sensor ?
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I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
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Problem: engine surging/hesitation, from idle to highway speeds. It will start and run fine, just hesitates/surges when gas is applied.
Before I pulled the codes, I tried seafoam in the gas tank, cleaned MAF sensor, cleaned throttle body, checked air filter, changed fuel filter, pulled/cleaned plugs, nothing worked.
Then today I finally used a scanner and pulled codes (my CEL doesn't work) and I got 157 and 158 MAF sensor fault, high and low voltage. I am reading about 6v on the C and D terminals of the MAF, I know that is much higher than normal, but what does that tell me? Why both high and low voltage readings? Just a bad sensor, or wherever that voltage comes from, ECM?
I also pulled 189 HEGO H02S sensor fault, unable to switch/lean during part throttle. What does that mean, just a bad O2 sensor?
Last I pulled a 542, fuel pump secondary circuit fault. Does that mean the fuel pump is bad or going bad?
More importantly, what should I troubleshoot first, would any of these codes cause my problem?
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I have a 1999 Ford Ranger and every morning when I go out to start it, it really hesitates and doesn't want to run for a few minutes. once it's going it's fine I can shut it right off and it starts fine, and I can leave it all day from 9am to 6pm and start it again at 6pm and it doesn't hesitate, it fires right up.. it seems like it only happens over night..
When I hooked the code reader up, I get codes P0171 (too lean bank one) & P0174 (too lean bank two)
I also get for the I/M readiness status, that the
EVAP - NOT RDY,
O2S - NOT RDY,
HO2S - NOT RDY
Just want to say also that the shop I had put 2 oxygen sensors in not long ago.=
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02 ranger 4.0 v6 auto has 110000 miles on it. at highway speeds 65-70mph feels like it strugles to shift, truck will shake and bounce some. when this happens rpm's jump from about 2200 to 3000-3200 after a little bouncing rpms drop to normal. issue seems to be the worst going up hill but will happen every time i hit 65-70. Also the truck will not bounce or shake with the OD turned off and seems to run fine this way.
tranny fluid/ filter just replaced with no change. new plugs and wires
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Mine has a strange issue. 1990 xlt 2.9L manual 4x4. When first start of the day, after start I push accelerator and it has a hesitation like not getting fuel. Where start?
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I have a 92 Toyota Celica GT five speed that won't going to gear occasionally. I can drive several months at a time without having a problem and then all of a sudden when I start the car to put it in gear and I have to literally force it into gear or turn off the car and put it into gear. I can go 5,6,7 months at a time without having a problem. Then all of a sudden it won't work. I would say within the last year I have had the problem I'm maybe three times. The last being yesterday since about September. I have had the car for 10 years and have replaced the clutch maybe three years ago. I have been driven a manual shift car since I was 16. Last year around March I replaced the slave cylinder and the problem seem to go away. Do I really need another clutch?
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This happens very often when driving around, at first it was only if i stepped on the accelerator to quickly or braked to hard, the check engine light comes on and the truck idles. Nothing seems to be wrong except when i step on the accelerator nothing happens, it lasts about 5 seconds then the light goes out and im on my way. it has started happening more and more just at random times now. it seems quicken the down time if i pump the accelerator.
Second, it occasionally feels like the transmission slips. I'll be driving and when I accelerate the rpms will go up, then what feels like the tranny slipping and the rpms go down. there is a distinct rocking motion when this happens, but it works if I turn it off and on again, or if i just step on the gas the next few miles it seems to subside.
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1997 2.3 5 Speed. My poor truck is having a hard time shifting into gears. I have bled the master off the truck with the correct method, bled it on the truck with the hose on the slave method while pushing the pedal and multiple times with no bubbles coming out at all, no leaks, etc.
Here's the breakdown -
- Clutch, slave cylinder and shifter bushings replaced about 3 years ago (everything has less than 7000 miles on it)
- While driving and pushing in the clutch, it clearly disengages, although quite a ways down.
- Only shifts hard while running. If I sit with it off with the clutch in, I can shift through all the gears with no effort whatsoever. At times while driving, it gets so hard to shift that it may become dangerous.
- Only things I haven't replaced are the master cylinder and the flywheel.
Should I just assume a bad master and just replace it? It's the original with 188,200 miles on it.
Forgot to mention there are times that when I am at a standstill trying to go into reverse, it grinds like the transmission is still engaged.
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