1996 Mazda Protégé, 130,000 miles, squeaky sound coming from under the hood. Happens any time, whether I am moving or not. Should I be worried? Been going on for about 2 months.
View 4 Replies it was over 100 degrees today in Lawrence, Kansas and on the way home from work, the air conditioner stopped making cool air. Hot air now comes out. This is a different problem that the poster before me seems to have. Mazda Protégé, 1996, 128,000 plus miles on it.
A reconditioned one was installed in 2006, compressor replaced in July, 2012.
I own a 1996 Mazda Protégé with 128,000 miles. I had it in for a check of a sewing machine sound. The mechanic tested it and found, among things, a "lean running condition". What does that mean?
View 4 Replies1996 Mazda Protege air conditioner died today in the lovely 2nd week of Kansas heat wave of over 100 degrees each day. Was replaced in 2006.
What should be the approximate cost of the parts and labor to replace? Is it normal to have died after 8 years? It was a reconditioned one.
Car has 125,000 miles. Not sure if the brake fluid has ever been flushed, despite brake jobs in the past 5 years. I do not have the manual so not sure if it even addresses frequency of flushing the brake lines. None of the invoices mention it. Last checkup in Aprl recommends flushing brakes.
Lots of posts on Cartalk about flushing in general, but not anything for my Mazda 1996 Protege.
1996 Mazda Protege has 125,000 miles. Checkup this spring noted that the engine oil sensor was leaking, but did not note if a problem. I check the oil monthly with no problems with the oil going down. Many posts about engine oil pressure fixes, but none about leaking issues. What happens if I ignore the problem?
View 5 Replies128,000 + miles... The lower climate control is physically hard to move like something is blocking it. However, the intensity control moves just fine. Both do their job of controlling the temperature/intensity, etc. Why might the lower control be hard to move? Can I fix it myself?
View 3 RepliesI have a 96 Mazda Protege DX. 1.5L engine, now with 161,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. I had it for 7 years. Originally bought it for $1900 with 121,000 miles.
This has been a problem for about 5 years. When I am at a red light or idling and I step on the brake, my idle gets rough and my engine feels like it is about to turn off. The idle does not bounce up and down. It just goes down to 400-500rpm from the normal 800-950rpm range.
Again, this only happens when I step on the brake while the car is not moving. It does not seem to happen when I coast in neutral and hit the brake to slow down. I raised the idle a bit, but it still does it. I could not find any vacuum leak around the brake booster and I know the brake booster works because I pumped my brakes while the car was off, and when I turn the car on, the brakes soften up.
Also, my brakes feel weak. I usually hit the brakes nearly to the floor board to stop the car. New pads, rotors are good. Brake fluid is at right level. Mechanics say nothing is wrong with my brakes.
Secondly, my belts screech at every start up. Lasts anywhere from 3-20 seconds. This has been happening for the entire 7 years I have owned the car. Mechanics replaced the serpentine belts twice in that time. Replaced a pulley and A/C compressor. I tried using WD40 but it doesn't effect it. Mechanics tell me that the belt tension is correct and they do not know why it still screeches.
1996 Mazda Protégé, 128,821 miles, in town driving 5000 miles per year in recent years.
I hit the frame of my garage door about 6 months or more ago which partially pulled off the front bumper area and knocked the right turn signal lens and headlight out of whack. My handyman fixed it up, by using good quality baling wire so the turn signal and headlight etc worked.
Then, I did the same thing a couple of weeks ago. (I was trying to avoid hitting my bicycle which I had just had reconditioned for an ungodly amount of money) My handyman is unavailable to fix it again. I have gotten stopped once by the police for the malfunctioning turn signal so it was time to get it fixed.
Mechanic (same one as previous posts) said it will cost 1500 to replace the bumper area etc so the front turn signals will work. He absolutely insisted that the turn signal wires cannot be reconnected. He reattached the bumper area "temporarily". I am willing to pay to get the turn signals functioning but do I need to replace the whole bumper assembly unit?
Does this seem plausible?? I just want the turn signals to work. I do not care about how it looks. (I drove the car in the interim with a bright yellow bungie cord holding the unit together)
2001 Mazda Protégé 2.0 LX model.
When I turn on the AC I can hear the compressor working. When the fan speed is 1, 2, or 3 the AC button is green, the compressor is working but no air is coming out of the vent.
When I turn the fan speed knob to 4 the AC button light goes out and I have air flow from the vent. The hose from the compressor is cold to the touch but the air coming out of the vent on 4 is not cold.
2003 Mazda protege with 105,000 miles. Have had an intermittent clunking sound from rear for years. Mechanic says rear sway bar is bent. Already replaced bushings because they were bad. Do I need to spend $289 plus labor to replace the sway bar?
View 4 RepliesI drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
I have a 2007 Mazda 6 with 133000 miles on it. Recently it has started making a very loud sound that comes from under the hood. The sounds is comparable to the sound a semi truck makes if it is idling. The noise is not constant, usually happens when I put the car in park or if I'm driving at low speed (under 20mph). The sound lasts around one minute.
View 2 RepliesThe ECT sensors on my 96 accord was broken. Hence the car overheated and smokes were coming out of the hood. Took the car to a honda dealer, here's what need to be replaced.
Radiator & cap
Lower & upper hose
Clamps
Thermostat
Coolant reservoir
ECT sensors
To do the repair they estimate 7 hrs of labor. I am not mechanically inclined so is this within the ballpark of how long it's going to take to replace the parts listed above. Does the 7 hr estimate seem reasonable?
Mazda Millenia 1996-- Smell of gasoline & exhaust coming in when driving. When we open the hood - smell of gasoline. NO apparent gasoline leaks! Mechanic found fuel injector stuck open - replaced it. Worked a little better for a little while. It seemed to only smell for 5 minutes after starting the car instead of constantly. Mechanic changed the spark plugs. Worked a little better for a couple of hours. Now it's continuous smell of gasoline and exhaust.
View 7 RepliesWe have a mystery: there's a clunking sound from our right front wheel when we turn, but our mechanic can't figure out why - he says the axle, struts and ball joint there all look fine. What else could be causing the sound - is he missing something important? This sound happens about 50% of the time on turns. Note that we recently (about 10 days ago) had the ball joint and struts replaced on the LEFT front wheel - could that have done something to the balance of the axle, etc. that is making this sound happen on the right front wheel? This is an old car (a 1996 Mazda Protege with 115,000 miles on it) but it's been well-maintained and is otherwise running well.
View 16 RepliesI just bought a 2007 LS460L. 've noticed a squeaky sound coming from the wheels at about 10-20 MPH but then it goes away. I bought this car from Land Rover Cerritos so i can't imagine that they sold me a car with worn brakes.
View 3 RepliesI'm hearing something that sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel sound from the front passenger footwell area. It often sounds like there's a trickling sound as well. What's wrong - is this normal? (Its fairly loud at times). It seems to correlate with cold weather.
View 7 RepliesI have an 2012 Accent that is sitting at 35k miles. I just got the 30,000 service done and a few days after I started to hear this ticking sound along with a squeak. The car can be idle or moving, squeak still there. It's sporadic though. Sometimes I can go 20-30 miles without hearing it and then all of a sudden I start hearing the ticking squeak. It sounds like its coming below the front passenger side of the car. It doesn't matter how fast I'm going, it's a ticking squeak that just comes and goes, but when it comes, it usually sticks around until I turn the car off and let it cool down. If i start the car right after, the squeaking comes back, but if I let the car cool down (overnight, for example), the squeak goes away until I drive 20-30 miles. I commute to work about 40 miles each way (80 miles total) every day so I can definitely hear it and it's bothersome.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 2014 Santa Fe 2.0T last June. Has been an awesome car up until about 2 weeks ago. I started to notice a squeaky rattle sound coming from somewhere around the rear passenger door. I've tried pressing on things, checking all the door pockets and can't seem to find it. Looked at the front mud flap in front of the rear tire and it's tight. It only does it when I get above 45 MPH and is sporadic. I'm afraid the dealer won't be able to replicate the problem.
View 5 Replies