Saab - 9000 :: 1992 - Loud Grinding Noise When Try To Put In 5th Gear
Aug 7, 2013
I recently bought a manual 92 saab, and in the past few days I have been having trouble with the 5th gear. The fluids are all fine and I have not put any real strain on the trans since I've had the car. It worked fine when I bought it but now when I try to put it in 5th there is a loud grinding noise as I let the clutch out. The shifter then pops back into neutral. I tried holding the shifter in 5th to see if that would work, and as I release the clutch the grinding noise gets louder and the gear does not engage at all. I am really hoping it is just a worn down part, and doesn't need a complete transmission overhaul.
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I have a 98 saab 900 se turbo.90000 miles on it. Just had a new clutch kit/throwout bearing and master cylinder clutch installed, as the clutch was going bad.
When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear,and accelerate I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding"/raspy noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd , although it seems that in first gear the rpms go up real fast now (could the gears be slipping again?? this is a brand new clutch..).
The second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive..not sure what to do and what causes this..maybe I just need to check the transmission fluid?
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Am wrestling with the ever-present value/worth question. My '95 Saab 9000 Aero developed a leaky head gasket at 155,000 miles. I had it replaced (after driving it several hundred miles over a week or so). The engine then became and continues to be hard to start. It idles roughly, and even stalls out when decelerating for intersections. The shop says that two cylinders have low compression. (no details on why) They suggested adding injector cleaner to the fuel, which did not solve the problem, or installing a new (used) motor.
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I have a 1997 Saab 9000 CSE Turbo. It has been a great car overall. Last summer, our water pump died while cruising on the highway, leading to a major overheat, leading to warped head. We decided to roll the dice on a rebuild, which was done by a reputable import specialty shop that has worked on many Saab 9000s. Since we got the car back 5000 miles ago, we have lost a few miles per gallon, and we hear a rough noise in the engine (particularly when it's cold). In the last few thousand miles, we lost a lot of coolant, apparently because the new water pump is faulty (the shop looked at it and agreed to replace under warranty). In the last 1000 miles (but no evidence of it previously), we have begun losing oil like crazy and occasionally (but not most of the time) smelling burning oil (the heater is on, moving air around). We are now adding about a quart per 200 miles. When we inspect the block, there is some small evidence of oil leakage, but not a lot, and there are never drips on the driveway.
Where is all that oil going? I showed it to the shop, we put it on the lift, and there is no spray on the underside, leaking oil pan, etc. I suspect the new head gasket is leaking, but there is little enough residue on the block that it's hard to be certain. What other explanations are there, and is it fair for me to blame the repair shop and insist that they redo the head gasket? The shop is a 6hr drive from my house, so I can't just drop by to discuss it with them.
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Having issues with sunroof. Purchased my 2011 gti last month 3300 miles later sunroof broke like a corrado .....making loud gear grinding noises ....whole assembly wants to bust out of the headliner !
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I have a problem with my reverse in a 5 speed 105 hp Tdi. It jumps out of place when i try to move the car, makes a loud grinding noise and pops back in, I'm guessing the selectors are worn or maybe the teeth are too. My question is, how hard is it to replace the selectors (if it is the selectors that are worn of course), what is the cost of getting it done in the shop and most important does this sign mean I will have the same problems with the rest of the gear in nearby future?
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My '06 Nissan Altima suddenly started making a very loud rattling noise as soon as I put it into drive and start moving at low speeds. The noise does not go away at high speeds. It sounds like I am dragging the entire undercarriage. When breaking it grinds very loudly. All of this is sudden. Only other issue I had recently was that the motor wouldn't catch when I tried it Saturday, but it finally did after giving it a good amount of fuel. Drove it 300 miles yesterday without a problem. Woke up to a car that sounds an awful lot like a plane.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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I am looking for a honest, (if there is any such thing) mechanic to keep my 2002 Saab 9-3 running. I am currently experiencing a loud noise while the car is idling. This is my only means of transportation and I cannot afford a car payment at this.
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My 19 year old Saab's air conditioning has completely failed. The well-regarded repair shop tried several times to recharge it and that didn't work. They say that the aftermarket air conditioner units that are available don't work in this car, (they tried several times on another customers car). Apparently my only option is to get a rebuilt air conditioner. Where/how do I go about this? Can I get the unit that is IN the car now rebuilt? I love my car and am the original owner. I will do anything for it!
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I have a 1992 SC Coupe I was just given for free from my Cousin. It has 92, 000 miles on it. The car looks in great shape, it drives smooth. But in the front under the hood there is a loud engine noise almost like there is no muffler on the car, you acutally hear it loud inside th car also. But the sound is in the front. After about 15 min of warming up the car the sound is gone. A freind suggested there could be a crack in the manifold.
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My Dads 92 Volvo's engine is making a knocking noise and I'm wondering what the possible causes are. He doesn't take that great care of it but it didn't over heat or anything. It sounds like it is making a loud knocking or clicking noise directly from the engine when you accelerate. It still runs but definitely has a lack of power.
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Shifter seem like it is way too loud going from gear to gear? Just holding in the clutch and rowing from gear to gear...seems way too loud, Seriously sounds like shifting gears in my old 5.0 mustang.
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Whenever I start my car, there is about 20 seconds of loud grinding coming from the glove box. It's sort of a tak-tak-tak-grrr-tak-tak-tak-grrr over and over. I've opened the glove box and noticed that with each start, the Navi box spits out the DVD, makes an awful grinding noise, then self-reinserts the navi DVD. I'm guessing this isn't normal, as it jars the normally whisper-smooth operation of my Phaeton. Is there an easy fix, or is this something to take the car into the dealer for? It would my first time taking it in for anything.
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I have a 2000 grand am with 189000 miles and i have replaced both front wheel bearings and all of the struts. I put new brake pads on and rotated tires. I still have a horribly loud grinding noise in the front end of the car. I jacked it up off the ground and took the front wheels off and put the car in drive and the noise is still present. It gets louder the faster i go.
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2006 SAAB SUV AWD, Right front wheel rubbing/grinding. When cold, coasting and braking. Not continuous. It has completely died while turning. New tires all around. Had both front brakes replaced x2 in 2 years. Still rubbing feel in right front.
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I have a 1995 850. About a year ago, I suddenly had a loud grinding noise coming from my brakes. It only happened in hot weather and when the brakes seemed to be hot. Also, it only happened when I was coming to a final stop, like the last 10-20 feet. I took my car to my "trusted" mechanic. They diagnosed it as being my front pads and rotors, so they replaced them (they also felt the front vibrating.) NOW the brakes seemed okay after I got it back the second time (no loud grinding noise.)
When I got the car back, the weather was starting to cool since it was nearing winter. My winter weather is like 70's during the day, and during this time, there was no grinding. It's now starting to get hot again, and sure enough, that grinding noise is back, but not as bad as the first time a year ago. Again, it is only when the brakes heat up and I come to a final stop (the last 10-20 feet.) If I break lightly, it won't make that noise, and it takes me driving for about 15 minutes for the grinding noise to start (it sounds like metal on metal and loud.) Also, I don't feel the vibration like I did a year ago. I only drive the streets, and have not been on the freeway since I got the new brakes.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata, 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, when I press down on clutch whether from a stop or when shifting, I get a loud grinding noise and the radio goes dead at same time!, I know it is the starter attempting to "engage", at least that's what I believe it to be, it also "'starts "from, the "on " position when I press on clutch.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe v6. I've had problems with the air conditioning in that it blows hot. Paid around 900 bucks to have a new compressor installed because the mechanic said that would fix it but it didn't. That was about 8 months ago. Still blowing strong but no cold air. About two weeks ago I took the car to a different mechanic who told me it needs a new compressor which would be 900 bucks. I declined that but had the guy do a little work on the breaks. He put new rotors and pads on the front brakes two weeks ago. Now within the past couple days when I start the car up it makes an extremely loud nasty grinding type of sound for a couple seconds then stops. Oil is fine and new. It happened this morning long enough for me to look under the hood and see the fans looked like they were fine, and the loud grinding noise seems to be coming from behind the glove box. It hasn't broke down on me yet, it's just really obnoxious and embarrassing with all the noise every morning.
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Chasing down a grinding noise. I have done a lot of research but nothing quit matches up with what I am hearing.
I have a 1979 F250 4x4. A few days ago I put the truck in reverse and as I was backing up it was like the drivetrain locked up. After that I put the truck in gear and started on my way. As I got up in speed a pretty loud grinding noise was coming from the tranny. 2nd and 3rd gear aren't bad but when I get up to 40+mph it sounds like crap. If I push in the clutch the grinding is still there. While driving I also put the transfer case in neutral, kept the tranny in gear, pushed in the clutch and the grinding stopped.
I also took the lid off, inspected the forks and thoroughly cleaned the inside but noise still continues.
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1999 LeSabre 3800 Series 2. AC works fine, no noise when in use.
When AC is shut off , we hear this loud , screeching , grinding , wailing , scrunching, high pitched noise.
Not sure what to check? Should I apply a lube to the belt,pulley, etc ....
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